Hi guys. I just wanted to share my notes on the installation of the Teraflex 3in lift kit with shocks. I also installed Teraflex front upper and lower adjustable flex arms and front Track bar. The wheels are Cragar soft 8 17x 8 with 4.5 inch backspacing and Pro comp X Terrain 35/12.5/17.

I would first like to tell that the kit is really well made and quite easy to install. The toughest part was to get the shock boots on the rear shock absorbers

Rear end :

The rear was the easiest. Teraflex suggests in their installation guide to install the sway bar links on the inside of the axle mount and sway bar but the links rubs against the axle mount so we decided to install them on the outside like stock. There is enough room between the tire and the links if you have 4.5 inch of backspacing or less ( what Teraflex suggests). If you have more than that I would suggest adding wheel spacers.

We opted to disconnect the esp wires from the caliper to give us enough room to put the 3 inch springs. It's a simple male/female connector.

We had to relocate the axle breather hose because there was a chance that it would disconnect at full droop. We decided to connect the end to the brake line extension bracket bolt on the frame and it gives well enough room now.

The rest is really straight forward. When you lower the rear back on the ground make sure that the springs are sitting properly on the spring isolator or otherwise the springs and trackbar might rub against each other.

The brake line extension bracket gives you a little bit more room but I am thinking about adding longer brake lines to be safe. I still have to test it properly.

Front end:

The hardest part was to get the new springs in place. We had to remove the caliper and disconnect the esp wires again. It's also a male/female connector but it's behind the shocks housing and harder to get to. If you don't replace the upper and lower control arms you might have to remove or loosen the bolts in order to get the axle to lower enough to put the springs in place. The rest of the installation is straight forward.
We took the lenght for the upper and lower control arms from WOL rough country lift kit write-up and it gave us exactly 7 degrees of caster.

Lifted vs stock:

I like the way my JEEP feels now versus stock. You can feel the road better and the suspension is a little rougher but not much. It's still very comfortable. The steering wheel is a little flighty due to the bigger tires and higher COG but not enough to add a steering stabilizer. I will have to try it on the trail to see if it would be better to add one.

I had no death wobble so far and I drove on a very bumpy road to test it.

The front axle is perfectly centered thanks to the adjustable track bar. It was 3/4 inch off center before adjusting it. It took us a few tries to get the steering wheel centered but it's perfect now. The rear axle is less than a 1/4 inch off center. I opted to install the rear track bar bracket that comes with the kit and I don't plan to add a rear adjustable track bar for now. The track bar bracket is very well made and strong.

The lift kit got rid of the rake and it's sitting perfectly level now.

I really like the way my JEEP looks now. Thanks to Teraflex for this kit and also to WOL for his write-ups. They were very handy.

I would definetly suggest to do this install with a friend because you will need hellp getting the axles low enough in the front to install the springs. An impact wrench or breaker bar is needed for the track bar and control arms bolt. Make sure you have all the tools listed in WOL write-ups before you begin.

The next phase of my built is to install the RRC XHD front bumper with Warn 9.5 ti winch and Mopar metal rear bumper and rocker guards. And the list goes on and on but money is the problem

I will try to add better pictures later.











I am not parked on level ground








If you need more details about this kit and installation let me know!

 

Good Job... Jeep looks great. Glad you are happy with the lift.

 

Looks Great. Lots of folks seem really happy with this kit, myself included. I would keep a close eye on your driveshafts at the transfer case. They will start slinging grease as the rubber boot is pulled at a pretty steep angle. I have a 2 door and thought I would have issues in the rear first, but it was actually the front that started slinging grease first. You can't align the front pinion without throwing off the castor. I just installed front and rear driveshafts from JE Reel.

 

Thanks for the advice. The drive shafts are already in my wish list. I will monitor them closely and at the first sign of trouble I will order new ones.

 

When I did my 4" the front springs were the hardest part. I used a very large prybar to get them in. My breather hoses had some slack in them and I was able to just pull them down. I figure if they reach with no shocks they were long enough.

Good right up. These are the types of things the directions usually gloss over.

 

great write up, i have this same kit witing for me at home when i get home from iraq next week, cant wait to get my rig jacked up

 

I had the 4" RC lift, and they glossed over the minor details, like how hard it is to get the tie rod end out of the pitman arm, how hard it is to get the trackbar to line back up, and a few other minor details.
I actually had my breather pop off with the entire back dropped sans shocks. Though about adding a hose clamp to the tube to make it stay on the nipple. Anything wrong with that?

Also, bent down the hanger that holds the parking brake cables, because they were under some tension for me.

 

I removed the hanger so there's enough slack in the cables.

 

Just find the other end of the breather tube. It's held to the frame by a metal clip. You can relocate it easily like I did and get a lot more slack. Just make sure that the valve at the end of the tube has enough space to open and let the vapor out.

 

Nice write-up and excellent advice.