Slow Build - Shrockworks Bumper, Engo E9000S Winch CUBE Driving Lamps
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ShrockWorks "Stubby" Front Bumper (Day 1 Part 2)
ShrockWorks "Stubby" Front Bumper (Day 1 Part 2)
Note: After removing the bumper shoot any scratches in the frame with black paint to stop rust.
Vacuum pump (2012 + JKs)
This is where I stopped for the night. Since I started around 9 PM in the dark this point took me to Midnight and end of my day.
Note: After removing the bumper shoot any scratches in the frame with black paint to stop rust.
Vacuum pump (2012 + JKs)
- Unscrew the vacuum pump
- Remove the Green clip and pull the hose off
- Disconnect the plug
- Disconnect the drain hose behind the vacuum pump
- Remove the vacuum pump (Keep reused)
- Disconnect the hose and one way valve (Keep reused)
- Cut the wire cover off the plug to the wire harness exposing the (2) wires
- Cut off the connector with (2) inches of wire (Keep reused)
- Under the hood between the Washer fluid and the computer is a (1) inch hose the leads to the old Vacuum pump location. Separate the hose at the connector.
- Connect the hose and one way valve previously removed.
- Remove the rest of the hose from this point down to the old vacuum pump location
- Cutting the zip ties will be challenging.
- Remove the (3) foot of Hose and the Drain hose attached to it. (Discard Hoses)
- Run the (two) wires from old vacuum pump location to computer location
- Note: Place wires in a flexible shield to protect the wires (not included)
- Crimp the wires at the old vacuum pump location and at the new location; basically extending the connector
- On the vertical part of the plastic housing the holds the computer drill (2) 1/4 inch holes about 3/4 and inch a part.
- Choose a location that the connector that attaches to the vacuum pump can easily reach.
- Connect the extended connector the this new location and connect the hose with one way valve.
- Remove the two fender Bolts next to the computer
- Paint the exposed metal with matching color to stop rust
- Mount the OR-Fab bracket to this location with the two fender bolts
This is where I stopped for the night. Since I started around 9 PM in the dark this point took me to Midnight and end of my day.
Last edited by rdavi; 01-16-2014 at 11:43 AM.
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ShrockWorks "Stubby" Front Bumper (Day 2 Part 1)
ShrockWorks "Stubby" Front Bumper (Day 2 Part 1)
At the end of day 1 I knew I need to remove the old vacuum pump mount so I bought a Porter Cable Angle GrinderAgain having to wait till the Kids were asleep (or rather just in bed) I did not start till 8:30 PM. I started by setting up my area with a job light.
Removing the Vacuum Mount
To Be Continued...
At the end of day 1 I knew I need to remove the old vacuum pump mount so I bought a Porter Cable Angle GrinderAgain having to wait till the Kids were asleep (or rather just in bed) I did not start till 8:30 PM. I started by setting up my area with a job light.
Removing the Vacuum Mount
- Carefully cut the Mount in the thin section where it is welded to the frame in front
- Pry the Mount about 90 degrees to expose the rear connection
- Saws-all the rear of the mount (the grinder will not have clearance)
- Use Angle Grinder to clean up cut if needed
To Be Continued...
Last edited by rdavi; 01-16-2014 at 11:45 AM.
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ShrockWorks "Stubby" Front Bumper (Day 2 Part 2)
ShrockWorks "Stubby" Front Bumper (Day 2 Part 2)
Main Event!
Installing the bumper:
NOTE: Get a helper (still can be done alone but easier with a way to hold up skid plate)
Congratulations you now have the bumper and winch installed!
To Be Continued... Lighting
Main Event!
Installing the bumper:
- Start by carefully Unpacking the bumper
- Set aside the Side plate and Bumper
- Get winch mount and place it vertically inside the frame
- With a 1/2 inch bolt and washer loosely mount it to the frame in the vertical position
- With the 2012+ JKs the bolt is not easy to mount.
- Insert it through the large hole and carefully get it in place
- Mount the Bumper to the frame with the other (8) 1/2 inch bolts
- Note: Mount with the bolt inserted from the Jeep to the bumper and screw the nut on at the bumper side
- Push the winch mount horizontal and tighten up all (10) bolts
- Note: Temporarily install one of the 3/8 bolts in the the front of the winch plate and the bumper to line up the holes
- When tightening up the two bolts holding the mount
- Insert the socket into the large hole in the bottom corner and carefully guide it over the bolt using a socket extension through the smaller hole to get it in place
- When all the bolts are tight remove the temporary bolt
- Build the winch add all cables need
- Insert all (4) square nuts in the bottom of the winch
- Now Dry fit you winch in place
- Mount the two rear bolts (closest to the Jeep)
- Check alignment
- Mount the roller or Hawse fairlead
- Tighten down the rear bolts
NOTE: Get a helper (still can be done alone but easier with a way to hold up skid plate)
- Mount the skid plate with the (2) most out side bolts first.
- Leave the bolts loose till you secure all bolts
- At this point it is very challenging to hold and align the bolts, washer, washer lock nut, nut take your time
- Tighten all the bolts
- I substituted one of the bolts holding down the winch with a Factor 55 Security bolt, I placed this in the front middle location.
- Run your winch wires to the battery
- Take all precautions to avoid moving parts and extreme heat source (I will provide more detail when I actually wire my winch)
Congratulations you now have the bumper and winch installed!
To Be Continued... Lighting
Last edited by rdavi; 01-20-2014 at 07:12 AM.
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ShrockWorks "Stubby" Front Bumper (Day 2 Part 3)
ShrockWorks "Stubby" Front Bumper (Day 2 Part 3)
Lighting
Inspired Engineering Cube Driving Lights
Lighting
Inspired Engineering Cube Driving Lights
- Place the large bolt underneath and through the hole of the light mount
- Secure the "U" shaped mount to the lights with the provided Alen Key bolts loosely
- Place the Light mount and nut on the bolt and tighten down.
- Prior to completely tightening the lights on push the light frames the the outer most edge of the mount away from the center of the bumper. This will help the light from blocking by the winch guard or stinger.
- Connect the pug and play bracket with PSX24W connector
- Test lights - Adjust as needed
- Route the wiring out of the way and connect with zip ties to the bumper
Last edited by rdavi; 01-16-2014 at 11:50 AM.
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ShrockWorks "Stubby" Front Bumper (Day 3 Part 1 Notes)
ShrockWorks "Stubby" Front Bumper (Day 3 Part 1 Notes)
- I took a measurement before I started marked off 32 inches on my fender on blue tape, (if you close you can see it in the pictures), After I was all done the same 32 in mark was lower by 3/4 an inch.
- Not sure if any amount of adjusting of the lights would make it so the person in front of you is not blinded. These things spread a wide beam of light, (that why they call then floods). if this bathers you get the tinted ones, the amber covers, or the spot lights.
- I need to mount my winch solenoid box and route it to power - Any one who mounted one under hood, please let me know how you did it point me to your write up. Thanks
- I heavily used Project-JK's wright up I tried to fill in their holes where I could
- Get a copy of the Shrockworks instructions in PDF form is is much easier to understand then the hard copy. all details in the photos is lost.
Last edited by rdavi; 01-16-2014 at 12:07 PM.
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It's been a while. Update on Mods since Shrockworks bumper
Odds and Ends...
Here is what I came up with as a switch for the lights under the hood.
It is a door switch. Works great. I have it placed up by the front drivers side of the Jeep. When the hood latches close it turns off the lights.
I Decided to place the Winch Solenoid Box on top of the Battery. In this picture you can see the fender bold and the bold on the back firewall I will be using.
I have tested the winch with the hood closed and my remote works great!
Here is what I came up with as a switch for the lights under the hood.
It is a door switch. Works great. I have it placed up by the front drivers side of the Jeep. When the hood latches close it turns off the lights.
I Decided to place the Winch Solenoid Box on top of the Battery. In this picture you can see the fender bold and the bold on the back firewall I will be using.
- I bought a construction "L" bracket from Home Depot and cut it to size with my new grinder.
- Then wrapped the bracket in electrical tape to prevent it from shorting out the system.
- Next after bending the ends to conform to the angles I needed I bolted the Solenoid Box to it.
- I Bought new 6 foot length runs of 2 gag battery wire and extended the runs to the the winch.
- I ran the wires in snake skin wire covering and down the fender behind the passenger head light to the winch.
I have tested the winch with the hood closed and my remote works great!
Last edited by rdavi; 03-20-2014 at 08:19 PM.
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Second Camera in the front bumper... Who needs a spotter (or can trust just anyone!)
As my first real outing with this Jeep I went to Carnegie to get some practice in with this jeep in a safe area. (and glamour shots of the new bumper)
It was on the obstacle course called the Frame Twister that I realized just how poor the visibility is where you need it most, just before your bumper...
I decided I wanted to see what was just in front of my bumper... I had to do something with this...
My Rydeen camera setup had a second input for another camera, so I bough me a Rydeen Duo
This camera works great! Except one thing. A minor detail really, everything is backwards left to right. I called Rydeen and this camera is only meant as a rear facing camera so it is wired at the circuit board that way. No way to change it. I can flip the image top to bottom but not also left to right. Duh!
I am currently researching solutions but all that I have found are like $150 or so. I am not ready to go there yet. but I might be if it get annoying. If you just buy a front facing camera this would (should) solve the issue.
It was on the obstacle course called the Frame Twister that I realized just how poor the visibility is where you need it most, just before your bumper...
I decided I wanted to see what was just in front of my bumper... I had to do something with this...
My Rydeen camera setup had a second input for another camera, so I bough me a Rydeen Duo
- The Shrockworks bumper has two holes in it to mount a license plate.
- Since I am not running one up front I used this as a mounting point.
- I ran the wires up the same path as my winch cables and through my firewall to the access point accessible from the passenger side below the a pillar.
This camera works great! Except one thing. A minor detail really, everything is backwards left to right. I called Rydeen and this camera is only meant as a rear facing camera so it is wired at the circuit board that way. No way to change it. I can flip the image top to bottom but not also left to right. Duh!
I am currently researching solutions but all that I have found are like $150 or so. I am not ready to go there yet. but I might be if it get annoying. If you just buy a front facing camera this would (should) solve the issue.
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Wiring - Turn on/off with Jeep
With addition of a second camera I needed to think about proper wiring of accessories. I talked to a coworker who wired race cars in a previous live. He turned me onto:
You have to order all the supporting parts but it works great. With my coworkers help I came up with this wiring plan:
Currently I only have my rock lights and front camera power but I have plans for the other two switches in my Rugged Ridge Driver Side A-Pillar Switch Pod Kit. If only the funding were as easy as the ideas...
- "www.waytekwire.com/"
- COOPER BUSSMANN MINI FUSE AND MICRO RELAY RTMR PANEL BUSSMANN 15303-2-2-4.
You have to order all the supporting parts but it works great. With my coworkers help I came up with this wiring plan:
- I bought the JK Deluxe Accessory Power Tap Model JK-APT 2011 from Quadratec.
- I installed this and tapped off my 12 volt switched power as a trigger into my main relay.
- Routing this in my first relay allows all the other relays to use it's output as main power turning everything off when the Jeep is off, no dead batteries.
Currently I only have my rock lights and front camera power but I have plans for the other two switches in my Rugged Ridge Driver Side A-Pillar Switch Pod Kit. If only the funding were as easy as the ideas...
Last edited by rdavi; 03-21-2014 at 09:31 AM. Reason: Updated wiring diagram v5