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Tereflex Quick Disconnect Install

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Old May 18, 2011 | 08:28 PM
  #51  
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Default what do you

mean: 2. The air dam gets in the way. I decided that permanent removal would be good, so just used my drill and a 1/4-inch bit to drill out them screws that don't unscrew. It was necessary to jam a screwdriver under some of them because they started spinning with the drill. Removal took about two minutes this way, but if I wished to reinstall I'd have to replace the plastic screws and plastic nut plates. BTW: If you do this, pick up the remnants of the plastic before doing the quick disconnect install. I had them all tangled up in my hair (it's long, I have a ponytail) before I was done with the rest of the mod! LOL.

not sure where the air dam is located.
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Old May 29, 2011 | 06:35 PM
  #52  
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Dose anyone have a large rubbing issue with the disconnects and 35's? I actually hit the bracket on the frame mount
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Old May 29, 2011 | 09:10 PM
  #53  
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Default Discos rub

Originally Posted by The_Yeti
Dose anyone have a large rubbing issue with the disconnects and 35's? I actually hit the bracket on the frame mount


I have the same problem with 35's rubbing. Noticed the tread broken on the edges where the tires rub.
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Old May 29, 2011 | 09:13 PM
  #54  
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Fantastic write-up.
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Old May 30, 2011 | 10:44 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by Lanster

I have the same problem with 35's rubbing. Noticed the tread broken on the edges where the tires rub.
I have the leveling kit and a 1" body lift on the front with rubi springs. And 4" backspacing I'm not sure if I just need more lift or longer bumpstops. I have no other issues. My tires tuck into the fenders nicely.
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 12:15 PM
  #56  
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I called Teraflex to see if they would have a fix for it. They said they havn't run into many issues with rubbing on these links, but would have one of their JK guys give me a call.

Talked to Teraflex and they said to try and extend the bumpstops a little. to solve this issue.

Last edited by The_Yeti; Jun 3, 2011 at 12:33 PM.
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Old Jul 26, 2011 | 01:32 PM
  #57  
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From: Asheville, NC
Default simple question on steps 5 and 6.

1- did you use the bolt from the bottom link to attach the top of the new link to the sway bar? The original had a pressed in stud and I did not find a new bolt in the kit.

2- on the lower link connection to the axle mount, did you have to press the sleeve out of the link for the larger disconnect to slide through?

These are preventing me from completing my install so any any all help is appreciated.
Thank you
Trey
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Old Jul 26, 2011 | 03:35 PM
  #58  
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From: Chadstone, Melbourne, Australia
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RE question 2, yes you do need to push out the sleeve (unless you are going to connect the disconnects with the original bolts and not run them as quick disconnects).

Originally Posted by Trey
1- did you use the bolt from the bottom link to attach the top of the new link to the sway bar? The original had a pressed in stud and I did not find a new bolt in the kit.

2- on the lower link connection to the axle mount, did you have to press the sleeve out of the link for the larger disconnect to slide through?

These are preventing me from completing my install so any any all help is appreciated.
Thank you
Trey
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 05:57 AM
  #59  
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The reason I ask about using the bottom bolt in the top of the link is that my 10' has pressed in pieces similar to the rear links. Here is a shot;
Click image for larger version

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When I use the quick disconnect for the bottom of the new link what else would I use to attach the top of the new link to the sway bar?
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 06:02 AM
  #60  
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Yes, you use the original bottom bolts. I had to cut some threads off of the originals to prevent rubbing.
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