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The ULTIMATE Hood lift fix

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Old Jul 16, 2007 | 03:51 PM
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Exclamation The ULTIMATE Hood lift fix

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Last edited by John L; Oct 23, 2007 at 01:40 PM.
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Old Jul 16, 2007 | 03:56 PM
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Very Nice!
Its nice to see people who can think about things and fix them the right way!
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Old Jul 16, 2007 | 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by John L
A full write-up would have been somewhat complicated, but anyone interested in doing this can ask for the details here in this thread. I'll share, as long as I don't see these on Ebay
Dude, if you wanted, and these don't cost an arm and a leg in parts and labor, you could probably put them on there yourself and make a lot. I would buy one (if it cost on the order of $50). However, I would want 4 of the metal brackets instead of two, so the top matches the bottom. That's just me though.
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Old Jul 16, 2007 | 04:05 PM
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What? no stainless safety wire on the cross bolt and screws that hold the top part on?

I am disappointed :toung:

Thats fawking PIMPTASTIC.

only thing "I" would do is dip the tips of the handles on the lock pins in Plasti-dip to keep it from chewing up the paint .
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Old Jul 16, 2007 | 04:10 PM
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Looks bitchin! However mine was 5 minutes and under $5.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-write-ups-39/hood-lift-fix-7124/
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Old Jul 16, 2007 | 04:11 PM
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BTW I am going to copy the shit out of your idea
what size rod end is that?
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Old Jul 16, 2007 | 04:14 PM
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I want them just for the "pimp" factor! Please let me know if you are willing to make another set!!:toung:
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Old Jul 16, 2007 | 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Dr.McNinja
I would buy one (if it cost on the order of $50). However, I would want 4 of the metal brackets instead of two, so the top matches the bottom. That's just me though.
hahahahaha Are you Nuts $50????

I would say with time and parts and if he even wanted to make $20 for himself he would have to get $200 for them if not more.

I build alot of things and people always say "oh i would so buy that if you make me one" then i tell them the $$ and time i have into it and they say no.
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Old Jul 16, 2007 | 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Dr.McNinja
Dude, if you wanted, and these don't cost an arm and a leg in parts and labor, you could probably put them on there yourself and make a lot. I would buy one (if it cost on the order of $50). However, I would want 4 of the metal brackets instead of two, so the top matches the bottom. That's just me though.
I'm not really worried about them showing up on Ebay because you have to have a spare set of bottom brackets to make it work. I lost track of what I have in them.....let's see...
spare bottom bracket to experiment on from the salvage yard....5.00, my best investment for this.
locking ball pins.....13.66 each, 34.34 delivered total.
2 QA1 male rod ends, 2 female rod ends...3.24 each, 19.13 delivered total
1 foot length 1"x1.5" 6061-T6 extruded rectangle aluminum...19.57 delivered
2 shoulder bolts, 2 flat washers, 2 tag tabs, 6 flange lock nuts....about 13.00 delivered
4 s/s allen screws.....2.00
.500 aluminum round bar for bushings...free (work)
Machine work on barstock and bushings....free
retention cable and swedge ends.......free(work)
little split rings for cables...1.00

So that's 94.04 without R&D and labor fees.

I wanted to make the the bottom bracket, but it would have been a tough one to fab, there are two locating pins at the top and only one thru bolt. I decided to not remake the bottom, it would have required a different size of barstock and possibly some time on a cnc mill to make it right.
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Old Jul 16, 2007 | 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by usmcdoc14
What? no stainless safety wire on the cross bolt and screws that hold the top part on?

I am disappointed :toung:

Thats fawking PIMPTASTIC.

only thing "I" would do is dip the tips of the handles on the lock pins in Plasti-dip to keep it from chewing up the paint .
LOL, I thought about it. I can still safety wire the lock nuts, they're drilled for it.

Good idea on the plasti-dip, I may do that. The handles don't spin freely, everything is under a little tension.
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