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Under $2500 Gen 3 LS JKU Swap??
Can it be done? A clean GEN 3 LS Swap into a JK/JKU, complete running and driving for under $2500 total out of pocket costs??? How about $2000??
Reasonable, Un-Reasonable... we shall see... :ya: Hi! guys and gals... first official post on this forum. Ive been a member of some other Jeep Forums, and a watcher, reader, lurker on this one for a while. I have 'a little' bit of Jeep background..lol. I have been wheeling, breaking and building rigs for about 30 years now. I have a few different Jeep Based businesses, Red Rock Offroad which I just moved to Phoenix AZ and I have a Jeep Rental Company out here too. The other, Truck Trends by Red Rock is in Dearborn Heights MI. I primarily do jeep builds and HEMI Swaps in both the TJ/LJ and JK Platforms out of Phoenix AZ... We do LS swaps too but overall, HEMI's are the main swaps. So I got challenged a little while back during a conversation with my shop manager, Rob and thus the reason for this thread- more on that in a minute... Rob runs the Michigan Jeep/ Truck shop... Heres the background story: He just picked up a Jeep from one of our collective friends who was also a previous employee, in early May.... 2008 Rubicon JKU 3.8/6 spd, that has definitely put in some work and also been a little neglected. It has been bashed on rocks, sent air borne at least a time or 2, on its second engine, buried in the mud, windows broken out, had panels swapped out on it, 2 clutches, 35s, then 37s now on 40s, 3 different lift kits..and yes the list continues- the transmission crossmember is toasted, geometry correction brackets are tweaked.... good times... ! :dontknow2: typical jeep life right! :thumbsup: When talking with Rob before he pull'd the trigger, knowing the history, I told him that if he got the jeep that he needed to be prepared to swap in another 3.8 or transmision sooner than later or just plan on V8 swapping it. Rob advised that the PO was also throwing in the GEN 3 LS L33 Truck 'engine' he had bought for another unrelated swap project. Rob said he totally wanted to LS swap it when the time came. Copy that! Rob made the deal. Rob, who had never owned a Jeep or been a 'Jeeper' got hooked! Fast forward 45 days: At the end of June Rob had taken the Jeep out for a wheeling and camping weekend at a local offroad park in MI with another buddy and their jeep. Mid Saturday afternoon I get a txt that said 'looks like that LS swap is gonna happen sooner than later.... just blew the trans LOL" Fanastic. With owning a Jeep shop, we have some parts 'laying around' like another 6 speed transmission out in the yard. NOPE... its LS swap time. Important Base line info- Rob physically owns the Jeep- not the shop- so this is not an all in, shop 'sponsored' project. Now enter the conversation and the challenge with Rob. Rob of course wants to LS Swap the Rubi.... Rob has the Jeep and 80% of an 2006 L33 LS engine - so along with the block heads etc, we have the harness, ecu, tac module, pedal, coil packs, intake to oil pan but... no accessories or accessory brackets or mounting bolts... thats it. We also have the fact the transmission crossmember is shot and the the suspension bracket are tweaked, still running stock control arms and 40s. Again this is Robs Jeep and he is responsible for the cost of the build. Now from my end I have a shop manager, soon to be business partner needing some assistance creating a reliable and capable Jeep that he wants to wheel and take to local/state Jeep events as both a participant and a vendor.... with a family and limited budget...: 2cents : :broke: just like most everyone out there... so lets get into it...:cheers: I start refreshing my knowledge and spend some time researching current Ls swap Kits out there from RPM, Motech and so on.... i already knew this but confirmed it... no body supports the GEN 3 swap and I totally get it as they arent CAN BUS based operating systems and dont talk to the Jeep OS. So for an off the shelf emissions compliant Jeep JK Series LS swap, the GEN 3 definitely have been left by the side of the road. But what about those who dont have to meet emissions, and dont have 8-10k for just swap parts even for a DIY build, let alone what theyre getting for GEN 4 LS and GEN 5 LT drivelines in the used market right now.. Engine costs are up 35-50% right now. Just looking at direct swap engine mounts- not some universal ebay or amazon hot rod kit you had to spend hours trying to fit- there were very limited offerings and those I found were minimum $500 to $800 and you still had to buy some sort of factory mount. Nope... not gonna happen for Rob or this build. Now I currently have a personal JKU build project going on that has an LS based engine and I used something like Genright mounts in it- again, too rich for Robs build. My other buddy just spent 8K for his GEN 4 LS 'swap kit' from a known supplier and even then, he had to source more parts from the local auto parts store and build his own exhaust system front to back. So enter the challenge... how inexpensively can a DIY legitimately do a GEN 3 swap in a JK chassis. The JK/JKU chassis are becoming more attainable just as the TJs did when the JKs came out. I went looking for threads/posts on GEN 3 LS swap in the JK platform and honestly didnt find much of relevance. I saw a few posts about low cost LS JK swaps but they ever seemed to happen. Not surprised, but again with the JKs becoming more available, I see the window of GEN 3 swaps into them getting a bit wider. Key points about GEN 3 LS swap into JK/JKU-
So coming full circle...back to the challenge, Can we build a clean LS Swap into the Rubi for less than $2500 out of pocket? let alone $2000 out of pocket? And do it with the mindset of performing the swap like a DIY? Absolutely no cutting no corners... meaning a it could be shown at events and not look like a junk yard hack build. No cheap fittings like using a barbed fitting cooler and hose clamps versus one with AN fittings on it, using all AN style fittings on the fluid components were applicable, push lock hoses, building all new 2.5 exhaust - not hacking up some stock pipes off a truck etc and including all the miscellaneous stuff like exhaust paint and heat wrap, sleeve insulation, p clamps, hose clamps, exhaust hangers etc... Lastly from a conversion shop aspect, what parts would we need to specifically create to make the install simple for the DIY guys and gals...? Obviously motor and trans mounts.. maybe a dash plate... anything else that we dont already have available? Now when I say out of pocket, that means the REAL total spent on the project once we have a running and driving LS swapped Jeep JKU, and all parts purchased and any stock parts have been 'sold off,' So if we end up spending $5000 total on the swap in cash and we sell off the stock engine, trans, t case etc... the challenge is that final number between parts purchased and parts sold needs to be less than $2500. There is the factor that yes we can buy parts at cost- a lot but not all. So I will create another column in my spreadsheet that lists retail cost and we will use that number for the challenge. Anything that Rob chooses to replace outside of the stock LS engine and transmission I am not going to include in the base challenge numbers. Even though our donor engine was included in the sale, I am factoring a line number for a fully dressed liftout engine based on facebook/CL listings. We have to acquire a few pieces to get ours to that condition because our donor didnt come with those pieces. I still believe even with some upgrades to the LS engine, we're still gonna hit the mark :?::driving: Lets get into it shall we.... |
All that brings us kinda to where we are now. I have spent the last few weeks finding the most cost effective solutions to this challenge. Rob and I have searched facebook and the local junkyards for the right deal on a transmission and transfer case..... we are down to maybe one or 2 orders from Summit for little trinket parts.... I was supposed to head to MI this week to start the build but unfortunately with trying to get 2 hemi swaps done for customers i had to push it off till after my RUBICON/FORDYCE trip at the beginning of August. In the meantime, I figured I would create this build write up as a record of the build and post info and pictures for those looking to do something like this themselves.
Okay with all that out of the way.. lets get some pics up. Heres the Jeep as Rob got it, some of you may have seen it around when Josh had it at events and trail rides, maybe even Toledo Jeep fest. She's been a tried and true rig but time for a face lift, heart transplant, color and graphics package change too... eventually wontons!!! so Rob got hooked on the Jeep thing that happened to all of us here :drunk:and finally stumbled onto the Terremoto Jeep... so this Jeep will be going yellow sooner or later:thumbsup: https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...01097b05f6.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...cac15a402f.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...70c4633ab9.jpg rob sent me a pic of him playing around learning and hitting the RTI ramp... he still had more but he wasnt sure just yet, https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...a6d668b04e.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...a49803cb11.jpg Making some cosmetic changes... new blig wheels, junked the exo cage, snorkel etc... https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...795aa73005.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...4f7ef7f4e6.jpg adding some color to it :clap: https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...7bc0e7e32f.jpg |
SO what is the overall build plan you ask... well I'll tell ya.
ENGINE We got an 2006 L33 engine as our foundation. No accessory brackets on it at all. so no ac alt or ps pump. first thing is we need to resolve that. Instead of going with a stock cast bracket that puts the PS pump lower and the return line coming off at weird spot, we are going to run one of 2 options from ICT Billet. More than likely the high mount pass side alternator mount and the high mount Power steering mount that uses the LS1 series pump. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...8eec329643.jpg ENGINE WIRING/ECU We have the wire harness from the engine so I did the stand alone mod to it. You can find the info on this modification all over the interweb so not going to go into too much detail there. Again a DIY can do it in their garage or living room while watching a movie lol... its pretty straightforward. The ECU got sent out to a Tuner for all the standard stand alone tune 'options.' https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...f574573026.jpg TRANSMISSION Here we opted for a standard 4l60e. Sure people are gonna say 'why' and 'i would have went with 4l80e' yadayada.... absolutely a 4l80e would be trans of choice but availability and cost were huge factors. For the HP and overall Swap the 4l60e will be fine. We ended up finding a hopefully decent unit from a local yard for $600 delivered to the door. Rob tossed in some new filters along with a new transmission pan that we welded in a 1/8 npt fitting so we can run a trans fluid temp sensor, just so we have some kind of reference. Yes the transmission is an earlier 4l60e which doesnt have the top 'LS' bolt hole but it will be just fine. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...e1a2c09321.jpg TRANSFER CASE Now heres where we get some more lashback... heres the deal... first off with the torque multipliers and all that jazz, we dont need to nor recommend running the stock 4:1 rubi case in this or most V8 swaps. Also adapters to mate the stock T case and 4l60e start around $600 and most require tearing apart the transmission to swap output shafts.. not in the budget so I looked at which GM T case I could use. In the LS/TJ swaps I used the GM 231C out of the s10's/blazers and did a hybrid case set up... with the weight and eventually wonton axles :wink: a light truck case just wasnt what i was looking for. So full size truck T case and definitely needed to be able to SYE kit the thing.. Enter the venerable GM 241C transfer case. With a SYE kit from JB Conversions.. this will get the job done. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...26301f1d74.jpg RADIATOR and FAN In the swap industry, its said that the stock JK radiator and fan will work just fine with a stock mild LS set up. So being a budget build, we are going to go with that. If it proves otherwise we will deal with it then. We have to 'stand alone' the fan control relays for the JK Fan HIGH and LOW Circuits as the TIPM controlled that selection before. We will add 2 high amp relays, 1 for each fan circuit. both controlled from the LS ECU. the LS has 2 fan 'outputs' which can be and are set at different temperatures. fan 1 circuit will control the low fan circuit and will run through a bypass relay and then main power will run through the stock thermal resistor in the fan shroud for the 'dropped voltage' low speed setting and when the #2 fan control for the high speed fan is triggered, it will trip the bypass relay turning off fan 1 relay. the JK fan only has 1 motor so [1] power supply at a time. TRANSMISSION and P/S COOLER We have our trans cooler ps cooler combo bracket that we use on our JK Hemi swap builds so we are just going to use the same set up on this build. We'll run a 6 pass 7000 series Derale cooler for the trans and a dual pass Derale cooler for the PS system. All the lines will be -6an push lock set up and we'll use summit twist tite hose ends. |
In talking about the steering, Rob asked if we could look into hydro assist cause its a bit to turn the 40's he said :rotflmao2: no kidding...:ok: Now this upgrade is going to happen but im not figuring it into the $2500 build challenge. Depending on where my numbers end up, I may include it at the end as total project cost thing.
Seeing its an 08 JK with the Delphi box, I told him we can tap it and do a basic hydro assist set up. The LS1 pump will work with a simple hydro assist so we're good there. I called up PSC and told them what we were getting ready to do and the concept.. and asked if they had any assist cylinders in the 'scratch and dent' bin.. my guy said the bins been pretty empty lately but would take a look... BOOM a few minutes later he comes back and says they actually have one out there... I said SEND IT! and it is on the way. PSC HYDRO ASSIST CYLINDER SC2222 is what we are going to run. its a 1.75 bore x 6.75 stroke which matches the JK steering stroke. They used to offer a 1.5 bore but that has gone by the wayside for the larger bore cylinder. A couple of -6AN to 1/4 NPT adapters for the steering box and then build custom lines once its all in. The jeep has found a bay in the shop and Rob started tearing into it... https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...af72b103af.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...9f12b7390a.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...0263602159.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...7dc2a6c676.jpg BUDGET BUILD UPDATE.... The engine and transfer case have been SOLD. I will include those numbers on the spreadsheet. Still have the other good 6 speed trans we are going to sell in place of the blown 6 speed that was in the jeep.. i think thats fair... no different if you had a running driving jeep and decided to pull the trigger on the swap, you'd sell off the good trans too. |
You are dreaming on an under $2500 swap. I would be impressed if you can do it for under $8k and you will not have any electronics working.
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Ok I have Dirtman down for 8k and no functioning electronics... Im guessing you mean no factory windows locks lights taillights etc right? if so conditions noted!
Dreaming, maybe maybe not.. its all about the numbers, part choices and expectations. Is it going to be Emissions Compliant- nope. Are we attempting to 'keep' the stock cluster for gauges.. nope. Is it going to be a clean install and appear as factory as possible when done- thats in the project goals. Ok so we know that we're not going to be able to use the stock cluster for gauges but we definitely need to monitor everything- and we want to keep an eye on trans temp as well. Speedo, Tach, Oil, Water, Fuel, Volts, and a trans temp gauge [NOT REQUIRED for the swap so Im not including it in the base numbers, but will if I come in close LOL]....Speedhut gauges- great pieces out of Robs budget, Autometer- again tried and true gauges of course but again even in the value series, were in excess of $500 minimum. Solution.. eBay specials. Less than $200 for the set after Rob sent over an offer and got an extra 10% off. All the gauges are electrical so :thumbsup: win there and the fuel level gauge was surprisingly for a 240-30 ohm sender. the JKs are 220/20 so its close enough, same thing many have done as well as ourselves since the days of the TJ which are 220/20 as well. Speedo is a GPS unit... is what it is. We could have utilized the speed signal from the GM ECU if needed, but wont need it with this kit. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...556fabce8b.jpg We're only going to be able to fit the speedo tach fuel and volts in the cluster 'area.' The water temp, oil pressure and trans temp are going to go in an Autometer triple gauge panel for 2 1/16 gauges that sits on top the center stack. For the trans temp, this eBay company doesnt offer a matching gauge so were ordering up an Equis temp gauge that is white with a red needle so close enough. I finished the wiring modifications on the donor LS harness. No real costs with that, just some garage time with the wiring board. I used a couple bucks in connectors pins race loom and wiring and it will all get added to the 'list.' When doing the harness modification I moved a bunch of the circuits around from their 'factory location.' For example moved and shortened the upper O2s, moved and shortened the MAF circuits, moved the crank/starter harness that originally ran down under and around the engine, and of course added in extra circuits for the new gauge senders that will be installed in the block/heads and trans pan. Ordered a set of LS Gauge Adapters in our summit order- Autometers kit runs $50, Intellitronix less than half for the same thing.... make good choices :rotflmao2: BEFORE https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...f07c822891.jpg AFTER https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...f0f93da5c2.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...b3e514132e.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...ac39f01dda.jpg Exhaust With the LS there is a few different options you can choose when building your exhaust. You can run stock truck manifolds but 2010 Camaro manifolds are the more common choice as they breath fairly decent and they point straight down. Our donor engine didnt come with any manifolds so we have to source them. If we had bought a 5.3 off marketplace it more than likely would have come with truck manifolds. So the manifolds are going to go in the "optional choice" category for the challenge. The Camaro headers are running about $150 for a used set right now. Plus we would have to order up mating flanges at another $20-30 on average. Not a fan of flanges, I like V Bands for our exhaust joints. We switched to running V Bands a few years back in all our builds/conversions and we have pretty much zero fitment or shifting issues when building the system and over the life of the system. A little bit of searching and we are going to try a set of eBay S-10 Swap headers- yep with V Bands... $99 shipped to the door. Bonus the included collector halves have O2 sensor bungs in them so theres $12 we dont have to spend. :thumbsup: We're not running Cats so we dont have that expense. Next on the parts list would be the tubing and bends. Solution- Summit Universal 2.5" kit. [4] 90s [4] 45s [4] 180s and [4] pieces of straight pipe. $259. Toss in a 2.5 Y Pipe by Jones for $25, 3 eBay 2.5 V Bands $42, 4 basic Walker Exhaust Hangers for $20 -Rob wanted a SpinTech Muffler, so $100 there- and we have all the components to build the exhaust. I would have either went with a basic Summit 2 chamber muffler or maybe a round Magnaflow...:dontknow: Roughly $439 for the rest of exhaust system, puts hard exhaust components right around $539. Heat Wrap and Rustoleum High Heat Ceramic Paint... comes in under $50. All exhaust line items come in at $582 retail. Rob opted to toss a BTR Truck Norris cam in the LS with some new lifters and springs and oil pump... https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...7dc5ef2e0f.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...8002027371.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...d22a2b2fee.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...e85a9d0ce3.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...d4f5139423.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...b57c7b95ee.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...5c1a4ceb6f.jpg |
Don't forget you will need two new driveshafts if you cannot make the TC flanges be in the exact same place. My 8L90 moved the TC back about 3". $12-1500 there.
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Ok on the driveshafts... Heres what we are dealing with and what the plan is.
Seeing that this jeep is a 2008, its been around for a minute. Both the front and rear-less than desirable rzeppa style shafts- were already swapped out a few years ago for DC/CV driveshafts like most JK/JKUs that are actually wheeled etc or have some miles on them :thumbsup: JBC only offers [3] yoke options with the 241C kit, 1310 CV 1350 Non-CV and 1350 Flange. When I ordered the SYE kit from JBC I wanted the version with the 1350 flange but the rep said it would be months before they got them in, so not a choice but a lack of options thing, its 1310 CVs for now. We're more than likely going to do wontons in the winter so we'll upgrade to the 1350 flange/flanges then. The 241C has a standard U joint yoke on the front output so no need to swap anything out there. Right now the current plan for driveshafts is- like any other build- get the driveline in place, measure and go from there. Once we have measurements, we'll take the shafts we have to our local D/S shop and get them shortened, lengthened, rebuilt etc.. We just had a rear DC shaft re-sized & balanced last week and it cost us $90, so I'm gonna budget $200 per shaft for now until we get to that portion of the project. :dighole: |
Had a little time this afternoon while I was waiting for my cousins kid to show up so we could work on his 5.0 Ranger swap...:thumbsup: Hes learning and what better way to fix a coolant leak than swap the 4cyl for a good ole 5.0... I mean sounds right along the same road we're on here... anyways messed with a relay box for the LS requirements.
Amazon relay box with relays. Gives me 6 relays/6 fuse spots. I was going to tie the relay control signals from the LS ECU into the Jeep TIPM but just opted to keep the stand alone aspect. The relay box will handle-
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...4ef522d0e6.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...61815a42d7.jpg I'll finish it up sometime this week, put connectors on the leads and stick it in the harness box.... |
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Just got back from a awesome trip to the Rubicon Trail in Cali and Fordyce Trail as well... good times. minimal damages lol... when you break your track bar 2 hours into a 2 day trail lol you do what you have to....
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...7689157461.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...4901c7e5c5.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...46301a0278.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...f18f31e51d.jpg |
Back on topic... couple hours in the garage last night with a donor jk cluster, Robs gauges and some ABS off amazon. toss in [5] leds lights off amazon and we are off....
Broke down the stock cluster, cut the plastic 'dividers' out of the outer bezel then grabbed some card stock and got to it. matte board/cardstock from the craft store is approx 0.062 thick so about 1/16. great for mock ups in fabrication. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...0574f09d74.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...16a9af4016.jpg Mapped it all out and grabbed the hole saws... then hogged out the stock inner shell a bit. dropped in the gauges... https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...565ae019fb.jpg Drilled some holes for the indicator lights and got them installed.... left turn, high beam, right turn, check engine and fog light LEDs https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...07ccfe2cdf.jpg The water temp, oil pressure and trans temp gauges are going to go into a triple gauge pod on the top of the center of the dash.... like this https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...9a08f797aa.png I put in an order from Summit on Sunday and one from Amazon last night. Everything should be at the shop Weds/Thursday. I shipped the harness back to Rob on Monday and Ill be sending out the cluster to Michigan today. My Flight back to MI is booked for Wednesday/tomorrow.... so tomorrow night the madness begins.... Im flying back home to Phoenix next week Tuesday night sooo we shall see what all we can get done in 6 days... |
I am pretty sure your budget will be out of the park.
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Why didn't you stop by and say hi?
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Dirtman.. ill make it a point to do that on the next run up there!
ok boys and girls ijust got back from Michigan... we put a hard week in and did a boatload of things to the jeep... including the LS swap... outside of the LS swap, we 3 linked the front of the Jeep using Barnes pieces, 1.25 heims and some 1.75 and 2.0 DOM tubing. Before the LS swap could begin, we needed to get the new suspension set up mocked in so we knew what kind of real estate we would be working with. We were able to get it 90% done before I had to leave to get back to Phoenix. Lets roll with some pics..... This is what I walked into.... https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...319c724e41.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...d10a5fe8c1.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...43271d14c5.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...0bd3725ad7.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...6190b0f2a6.jpg Rob cutting off the rest of the stock mounts... https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...4bafa41052.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...c5d331874e.jpg Getting the 3 link bracket mocked up and the crossmember in... https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...2cb2314593.jpg |
So the S-10 swap headers with the V bands wouldnt work. the angle on the headers crossed over the engine mounts and would have obstructed the mounting plates from the frame. S-10 swap headers with the 3 bolts flanges for the win. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...cffc3028da.jpg
the junkyard NP241c getting shortened up.... jb conversions didnt have any 1350 flanges in stock- estimated months- so we went with a 1310 cv yoke. the rear shaft on the jk had already been changed to CV so this will keep the install simple. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...3b5cff29ba.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...a33c041b7b.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...a0ea2918a5.jpg added a bung for the trans temp sensor... https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...03392e84c9.jpg as you can see its a pre-ls 4l60e.... this we will touch back on later... made a quick bracket for the dipstick.... https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...23e7bb98d1.jpg ready for drop in/mock up..... https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...03b242993c.jpg Ok here we go... floating the engine in the spot we want... measuring and making some frame mounts. block mounts are generic amazon LS mounts. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...b0a4151149.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...99d2e8e82b.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...24a967c827.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...07dc2ab04d.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...20cd92d8b4.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...bd9d16534d.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...36dcb2658d.jpg shes in..... https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...7e25179dc7.jpg |
Grabbed an old hemi trans mount plate off the shelf, this earlier design used the common gm truck isolator mount. I have changed the mount plate design since then and this was just a left over.. but like i said, had the gm truck isolator bolt spacing. worked out perfect... needed to space up the transmission about an inch. grabbed some 1" aluminum spacers from ACE and some metric bolts and we were in business.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...6127a74f2c.jpg added a gusset on the back side of the engine mounts... https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...df1486737b.jpg put the ICT PS mount on the block and tossed the engine and trans back in and continued with mock up... https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...2738d64c7f.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...f3166cd8e8.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...b0de7647b9.jpg its close but plenty of clearance! https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...51380e81e9.jpg Installed 6 studs on the transfer case as there werent any on it.... and slipped it up on the tail of the trans. checked clearances and sent it! on to exhaust... |
Before I could build the exhaust I needed to do the evap canister relocation mod.... where you tuck it up over the rear axle and just bolt the mount bracket to the floor. now seeing the we are going G3 LS, were not doing any emissions etc so no evap solenoid purge solenoid etc... however we still need the atmospheric vent and charcoal canister to filter the gas fumes. So I went ahead and just gutted the valve from inside the evap solenoid... done! picked up some 5/8 hose from Oriellys and get it done.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...9024a4173c.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...776c9519ec.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...bc3ed5ebf1.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...84d8900640.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...f279434963.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...0c2f0a5cb4.jpg Now with the evap canister moved and tucked out of the way.... time to build the exhaust.... |
Exhaust time....
[1] universal exhaust builders kit 2.5" [1] 2 into 1 y pipe, [3] v bands [5] exhaust hangers didnt even break the band saw blade with all the pie cuts LOL. the band saw we use is a milkwaukee saw mounted to a SWAG table. works out pretty well. definitely a good addition to any garage.... pass side. in these pics you can also see the trans mount plate we used and welded to the barnes crossmember,as well as the 1" spacers. stock GM truck trans/isolator. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...5073ebdf84.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...9e9d2b17ca.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...70b50dadd6.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...5948618cc7.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...15ea0fd6b4.jpg Drivers side... up and over away from the driveshaft... https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...d74099fde7.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...b23aefac54.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...2a2f9484ac.jpg the merge..... https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...0d4283ddb6.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...8de33a9a00.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...b6615c1322.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...1a9f5202f0.jpg and the back half..... https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...e5a7406ab0.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...c4829845f3.jpg i did put 2 exhaust hangers on the spintech muffler Rob chose because.. dam that thing is heavy lol.. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...ecc6d99319.jpg we did drop the sway bar mounts at the frame about 1.25" which allowed the exhaust pipe to tuck up near the frame and get me some extra clearance. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...b76f32ffcc.jpg after mock up.. time to pull it all down, scuff it prime and paint it.... then heat wrap the areas up front and along the trans etc... |
So... on to driveshafts.... we didnt have time to get to the front but we did get the rear done... Recap- 1310 CV on the 241c SYE kit, existing aftermarket shaft. We tried to fit the existing shaft into the jeep but at ride height... it was very close but not correct, plus the slip shaft was seized on it as well.. fantastic. we sent it off the driveshaft shop for resizing and they replaced the slip shaft as well.... $210 later, we have a rear driveshaft.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...3f4a2ca995.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...6984128e21.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...58158a9a9f.jpg |
Quick touch on budget..... so I am doing really well with this project and my line item budget. honestly we have not deviated from the build sheet and my part selection has been pretty spot on . thought we were screwed for a few on the ICT PS mount and would have to go with the Turbo PS mount set up but we lucked out and have 3/4" clearance from the PS pump :ya:. remember our donor engine didnt come with any accessories that you would usually get in a lift out deal. We chose to go with the ICT stuff over getting replacement stock stuff....
we did have to buy a second adapter for the temperature sender as the inteltronics version snapped off as I was installing it. So this time I went with the Autometer version to replace it. advice- stick with autometer on that part for sure. there was a pin hole leak in the welded bung for the temp sensor and rob re welded it, however he didnt take out the sensor so he melted that one and we had to order another... is what it is... :tease: The universal exhaust kit had more than enough pieces to build the system on the Jeep and we have a bit of it left over. We had to make a few runs to the parts store of course but id say 60-70% of the parts were already accounted for in the budget. Lets continue on shall we.... :buddies: |
Alright... well apparently I didnt take any pics of Rob drilling and tapping the stock Delphi steering box... yep thats right- we decided we were goingto do a hydro assist set up on the Jeep while doing this swap... obviously it wont be included in the "2500 LS swap budget" but if I come in under my mark, I'll toss it on the list just cause...
I had called up PSC and talked to the sales guy- asked if they had any scratch and dents floating around on a JK assist cylinder, he said 'man.. we havent had anything in the S/D bin in a while but let me take a look...' put me on hold and a few minutes later he came back on and said they actually had a returned cylinder back there that they put new seals in it and offered it at a fair price so I jumped on it. I had him send out a mounting kit for it as well and called it done. Theres a Parker store a few miles from the shop so to keep the costs down on the hydro assist part, we went with crimp on fittings vs the field serviceable ones PSC offers. The crimp on ones came in at about 1/2 the cost per piece. friday during the day, Rob ran over to Parker and got some fittings and hose. Got the cylinder mocked in over the weekend and then mocked up the hoses. On Monday morning Rob swung back into Parker and had the ends crimped on the hoses at my orientation marks. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...6a9406b796.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...b825784298.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...f3ff92ff4e.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...96ab63babd.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...20253ae7ec.jpg |
lets touch on transmission and ps cooling now that those components are in the Jeep. for the trans lines and low pressure power steering lines, we use push lock hose and fittings.- same as the fuel system.
A set of ICT 4l60e adapters on the case converts it to accept 6an fittings.... from the trans up to the front of the Jeep... heat sleeved where it passes the exhaust. made a mounting bracket off the starter for the hose clamp to keep it tucked and secured https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...bdf8e99fb8.jpg this is one of the dual cooler brackets we use in our hemi swaps. it ustilizes tube and fin style coolers instead of the plate style. the plate style just doesnt allow enough air flow through it at low speeds. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...c284a4a244.jpg in this pic you can see the tapped Delphi box and the hydraulic assist hoses... https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...83b49660ca.jpg Rob cutting the 10-24 mounting bolts down... and getting the coolers mounted up. The upper 6 pass cooler is the trans cooler and the lower 2 pass is for the power steering system. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...b33e03914a.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...db513c5ceb.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...f295b42f8c.jpg |
whats next.... electronics.. the big kicker.... what will work and what wont...? what do we have to do to make it work? stay tuned....:eek2:
under the hood.... we have to fit the ECU, TAC Module and my relay box... :ok: trying to fit the brick of a ECU under the hood took a minute but i came up with a solution... i had ordered some LS ECU mounts from amazon and fitted those to the ECU and played with positioning.... a small piece of angle aluminum and some flat stock from home depot and we're moving forward.... https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...2b065aed6e.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...e1f9a11c9a.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...a5aa9905c1.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...45c824d4b0.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...f2b637214f.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...80bda9f759.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...49d513d95e.jpg same with fitting the TAC module, a little time and more of that flat stock and we have a solution for that.... https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...741aaa555b.jpg lastly for the relay box, yep you guessed it, more of that flat stock and got that fitted in as well.... https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...7ad5828777.jpg we laid in the LS harness and went to get it all clipped in only to find that 50% of the injector connectors were actually split on the locking tab and wouldnt stay connected... next day amazon'd some replacement connectors for $20 and I replaced all 8 connectors... :thumbsup: when goign to drop on the stock spark plug wires, 3 of the stock style wires contacted the headers so those were a no go.. in that same next day order came some 9mm wires with 45* boots. slipped on some heat sleeve as added protection and popped them on the engine... https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...96301656f5.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...417188d045.jpg big thing most overlook or under size is the engine to frame/chassis grounds. this is very important on a lot of different levels. we always run a 4g ground from the engine- usually from a mount plate bolt to the frame and then a 4g from the frame up to the battery. no different on this build.. drilled a hole in the motor mount gusset plate and through bolted the grounds after slipping on some heat sleeve..... ran the main for the starter in the heat sleeve as well and up to the battery the cables went. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...598d7668d3.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...1ee0e27b4f.jpg rewired the factory E locker relays to operate independently of the Jeep system. we had done the locker mod/override already but this time I made them so that they were 12v triggered instead of ground triggered like factory so we can use a standard rocker switch or switch box set up. These are going to [2] standard rockers on a lower daystar dash panel... https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...faa3398361.jpg brought a few of the circuits from the rocker switches and from the added triple gauge pod down under the column for easy access and service if needed... i tucked some of the primary fuse circuits behind the bolster panel... https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...0b754ee8b3.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...a03183758b.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...96f36b9a47.jpg everything looks messy when wiring until the last zip tie is clipped :wink: laid in the stock battery tray, battery and TIPM... I pulled the stock feed line to the factory fuel pump and connected to my LS relay box. did the same with the fuel level sender circuit and ran that into the Jeep. Found the reverse light circuit and ran that inside as well. tapped off an run/crank circuit for the alternator sense line to while 'under the TIPM.' https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...58241d3654.jpg You can see here in this pic that im a fan of the military style battery terminals.. love these things. also you can see i dropped a secondary battery post off the wall of the battery tray. the big yellow wires are the feeds to the LS relay box and theyre temporarily just hooked to the battery because i forgot to order some 10g fuse links..:doh: https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...28f57e10bf.jpg THE CLUSTER.... as mentioned before the cluster is the BCM in the Jeep Wrangler chassis. without the cluster in place- nothing works- no turn signals, no lights, no radio, no windows etc... you get it. SO we HAVE to keep the cluster or go in and rewire every system we want to keep= not happening. behind the cluster is a big dash brace so 'leaving the cluster behind the new cluster I made isnt happening. So i needed to find a place for the 'guts' of the stock cluster to go..... you can see the bones of the cluster in this pic. inside that shell is the BCM circuit board. all the wires wrapped around the stalk are signal wires for the new cluster. again the stock systems are all modules and CAN BUS... so theres no left turn or right turn or high beam etc circuits behind the cluster or going into the cluster for that matter outside the can bus comms circuits. All those circuits/signals needed to be brought in from outside the jeep.. after the TIPM module. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...33a413eea8.jpg i grabbed right turn, left turn, high beam, parking lights and fog lights signals off the front body harness at the grille. the parking light circuit is for some accessory lighting and the fog light signal is for a 'fog light' ON indicator light I put on the new cluster. this harness stays with the grille support when you remove it so I put weatherpack connections on the circuits. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...061407a654.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...b3bc9f0ddd.jpg I still have to finish the wiring on the back of the new cluster. didnt get time to knock it out while i was up there.... https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...5c10af2641.jpg |
When I dropped in the Battery tray, I had a slight bit of real estate issue with the Oil Dipstick Tube. carved out the corner of the tray and gave the dipstick tube some room.
dipstick 1 battery tray 0 https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...271e557848.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...c515a26482.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...23797799e3.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...b26af7e961.jpg |
Moving on to the pedal.... this was a fun one.... this is the stock gm truck pedal that came in the box of 'parts' with our LS.
short version is I built the pedal out and nailed it the first time or so I thought. I matched the stock pedal position and angles, and even was able to hit the stock pedal mounting studs on the under dash structure..... until I went to pop it in the Jeep and the pedal hit the tunnel... then I was like you dumbaZZZ :mad::doh: as i didnt account for the offset.. something about it being 230am maybe :ok: so grabbed the cutoff wheel and made the necessary adjustment :thumbsup: stock JK pedal and stock GM truck pedal https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...f0ab05f791.jpg cut the stock gm pedal arm off, but made sure to leave myself enough to build off of. we had a stick of 1/4 flat bar in the pile so i grabbed that and began the process... https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...76e70fff9f.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...c1cd8525b6.jpg had to notch out the back of my new 'pedal arm' so it would properly 'stop' at its max position. i added the bar across the front as after i did the notch, i wasnt happy with the amount of material left. slightly overbuilt-- probably lol https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...a7da6bb25c.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...7b04d47723.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...f2cd17016f.jpg you can see in this pic the pedal is pretty much in the stock 'pedal' position. the pedal has full travel and hits the 'stop' nice and flat. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...fe3e797f81.jpg For the pedal wiring, 2 things, the stock connector was too big to pass through the hole in the firewall left by the clutch MC and 2nd, the harness was too short to make the run from the TAC to the pedal. I ended up clipping the harness and extending it, passing the wires through the grommet and then soldering on the inside half of the harness at the appropriate length to reach the pedal. Yes we could have punched a big hole in the firewall left of the booster and ran it through there like GM does it but just couldnt see the reason to put another big azz hole in the firewall.... as it only took a few minutes to extend the harness. |
Alight... moving on in the interior.. The Shifter....... so we didnt have a GM shifter at all but from past swaps i knew what would for the most part. we did order a s-10 shifter cable but it hadnt shown up as of sunday. Rob had sourced a complete console and shifter from an 11+ wrangler. he wanted the updated console not to mention we needed the automatic tub plate to seal off that big hole from the manual set up. unfortunately with the tap shift set up, there was no way to utilize the shifter with this particular set up.
our buddy had a winters 4 speed shifter that he said we could borrow and if we ended up using it, we would just need to replace it before he needed it lol... we made the hour run out to his place and picked it up... an hour back and then around 1230 started messing with the winters shifter in the jeep.... hmmm ultra 4 set up OK, buggy set up OK stock style daily driver jeep set up..ehhh not so much. after messing with it for an hour or better I told Rob to just call the junk yards in the morning and see if he could source a floor shifter from a 2000 era camaro monte carlo etc... being on my arizona schedule i strolled into the shop around 11am and Rob showed me a 4 speed auto camaro i believe, shifter he found for $35... perfect... game on. :clap: i grabbed the shifter, found a cardboard box that looked to be the right height i needed to have it sit up in the console correctly and got into mocking it up. the box put it about .250" higher than i wanted it to be so i gave it a little squawsh and it settled down into position. I had rob jump in the back seat and eyeball linear orientation. he said it was good so we continued on.... yep out with the 1" flat bar stock and 1/4-20 bolts..... https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...b65bbb5dcc.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...10323a0c58.jpg mocked up the rear bracket at the height we were looking at, utilizing stock studs where possible... and then moved to the front bracketry... https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...d7da516aa0.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...5ab8e609b3.jpg the front took a bit more work. with the s-10 cable we needed to move the shifter cable mount off the GM shifter a bit. we cut the 'mount section' off the stock GM bracket, locked it on the new shift cable and created a mount where we needed it to be... https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...da28b4fa94.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...3d25987c10.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...a118e6bc88.jpg the GM shifter pulls from the front backwards, the 4l60e shifts from the front back as well. so the cable has to go out the front of the shifter and come in the back side of the transmission... the long S-10 cable is designed for this application. we looped the cable under the dash, popped a hole in the pass side of the tunnel and passed it though down to the transmission.... https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...5f2cac6362.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...9ed9141141.jpg in this pic you can see where the shifter cable passed through the trans tunnel with a snap in grommet. we put a bead of RTV on the grommet just to be safe and popped it in the newly created hole. we also got the connector for the shifter and I used it for the Park/Neutral Circuit for the starter relay and Reverse light circuit. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...2a8c39ad99.jpg |
Nice work. May I suggest you weld a horizontal flat bar plate over the top of the front mounts and straddle the chassis to stop flexing and eventual cracking under 4WD chassis flex.
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sixy4x4x.. first off thanks..
you're 100% on point with the top plate... i just skipped it for now as im not 100% on how i am going to tie in/mount the engine and trans skid plate i plan on adding the next trip back up to MI. thats why i did the gusset on the rear mount for now. didnt want to box myself out of the pocket in case i needed to weld from the top down etc... all in all, by the time its all done, yes sir- it will be gusseted or boxed for rigidity. robs been busy with clients and projects and hasnt been able to get into too much the jeep in the last week or so. hes sending me back the cluster and ill prep out the wiring on the back of it. said he got the stock radiator back in and is waiting on hoses. i found the yoke for the front of the transfer case to go to a 1310 cv so we can use the existing front drive shaft, so that should be on order shortly. i have to break up the spreadsheet into individual files.. ill be working on that this evening and start getting some numbers posted for the project. |
OK... so i have been busy with rentals for the last 2 weeks or so, finishing up a gen 4 hemi swap into an LJ for a client, plus doing a old 5.0 into a ranger swap for my cousins kid. On top of that, working with the new plasma guy out here trying to get parts and orders out... wheew...
We all have those moments when we make an impulse decision due to outside influences and then it consumes ya for awhile, problem is I am my own influences LOL.. SOOOOO... I have a 2010 JKU sahara that i bought off my brother yeeeeears ago. i wheeled it with a 1.25" body and some 33's.. then a teraflex 2.5 kit and 35s and then decided i was going to do a full build on it when i blew up the stock auto trans... long arm SD axles etc... well the shop got busy and that jeep kinda just got left to the side.... 2 years ago during covid i pulled the customized stock frame/axles out from under it and put a stock frame back under it ... and then it went back out to the yard..... needless to say... running these numbers and planning on going back to MI to help 'finish' Project Tantrum' as it has been now named.... the 'Goose' my old 2010... popped into my head... I told rob, hey look around and while im up there, maybe we'll drop an LS into the Goose and see how fast we can move through it... 5 minutes later in the same conversation... Rob goes ' hey heres a 2005 6.0 with trans and t case from an escalade=lq9... $1600 with harness and ecu... well SH!T..:wink: guess who now has an LS lift out waiting for him back in MI... :clap: im going to run 90% of the same set up on that build but i dont have the sale of the stock engine or trans to offset out of pocket costs.. Ill do full build thread on that project as well....as i already pulled the trigger on 80% of the parts for the project :2thumbs: OK back on topic.. not that the upcoming GOOSE Project isnt completely related... but :cheers: here we go. The nickel and dime part of the process has started... we shall see how fast that adds up and affects my budget list... silicone couplers for the intake, air intake, ac compressor adapter fittings, AC line fittings.... remember full running and driving everything working... so that includes AC. heres some pics of the radiator clearance.. stock 3.8 rad and fan... yes we trimmed a little bit off the water pump snout. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...9dd962ef57.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...179520544e.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...d8f5017473.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...f867056d48.jpg as i mentioned before, Robs 'free' domor engine didnt come with all the accessories like a full lift out would have... so he had to case an AC compressor as well. found one at the local yard... im happy with the clearances... think we'll be good with either a top exit adapter or 90* without a question... https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...7dde2816e2.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...7c76d9b948.jpg after mock up we'll have to pull the compressor out, drain what ever old oil may be in there if any at all, refill it blah blah blah before we 'use' it... i tossed a bunch of ac fittings, line and the crimp tool in the truck so we should be able to make/mock lines next week. |
heres some cluster shots.. i got the wiring all set up one night last week so its ready to mate up to the jeep... not too bad for what it is...
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...f393a50926.jpg left turn :thumbsup: right turn :thumbsup: high beam :thumbsup: check engine :thumbsup: fog light indicator :thumbsup: https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...ec54972349.jpg parking/running light illumination :thumbsup: https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...4c74dfaeb5.jpg gauges all powered up :thumbsup: https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...61af5f8e3d.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...635799e2dd.jpg plug and play... :thumbsup: once i craft the mated connectors on the chassis side... https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...e7c22780c4.jpg |
earlier i mentioned issues with the transmission.. well see we got a pre LS 4l60e in robs budget search. its a 98/99 so it has the PWM pump so thats all good as it will work with the LS ecu. when we first fired it it sounded like it was just eating nuts and bolts.. short version is we didnt add the torque converter pilot adapter. 300 ls to 298mm pre ls... 2mm yeah biggggg difference. rob split the trans and popped an adapter in there.. all better....
rob sent me these videos... sorry for the grainy one, its what i got... first roll out of the bay under its own power the 5.3 has a BTR Truck Norris Cam in it, 2.5 exhaust, spin tech muffler and all the way out the back.... |
With any learning curve or 'product development' project, the goal is to find the right combination of parts that make the swap-or project- easier faster simpler etc but does not sacrifice quality etc... point in fact... on Robs LS build here, I used [2] elbows to make the 90* turn up off the water pump, subsequently [4] hose clamps... one outlet is 3/4 while the return is 5/8 on the LS pump. the Jeep is 5/8 5/8, so no matter the 3/4 still has to drop down. its what the parts store had on the shelf to solve the problem at hand. did it all work- yes. is it 'clean' - ehh acceptable but not the way we like to produce things. so I wanted to find a better- red rock- solution.
With a little more time to focus on these little things, I was able to source universal heater hoses with a single 90* bend in them and various different lengths on the long leg. Perfect- just eliminated [2] elbows and those 4 hose clamps. Ordering the 5/8 hose in the longer length, gives me the left over hose to make the run from the 3/4-5/8 reducer coupler to the firewall, cheaper than using bulk hose. 2 parts changes in the build= savings in 3 different places, plus time savings in eliminating 4 connections, also eliminating 4 potential leak spots. WIN across the board. Addressing the LS Steam port issue- we need a steam port somewhere... $15 later, steam port 'T' for the return line into the water pump. splices into the heater hose. done. when we get these kits into production, the return line will have the steam port splice already installed and clamped on the hose. same with the 3/4-5/8 reducer. stay tuned for the GOOSE Build and you'll get to see the little differences in the installs..... |
just got back from spending the week in MI, got some family time in and got some time in on the rigs. Tantrum is 95% complete, running and driving !!! :ya::ya:
took it out on its maiden voyage the other night and everything did its job, trans shifted, etc... rob has since put some miles on the rig and is enjoying it OTHER than the fact he hates the muffler he picked. he said i didnt have to tell him 'i told you so' lol.... needless to say he is going to cut it out and put in something 'different.' the cut files for the frame mounts worked out just as we thought so win there. going to make changes on the tabs with the skid plate mounts. got the engine/trans/tcase mocked up into the GOOSE.. seeing that i had it on the hoist, i went ahead an built the exhaust out for that rig whilst it was suspended... ok on to some of the finishing tasks- shifter cable mounts for trans and transfer case https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...deb2b23af5.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...a173f7514f.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...ef70523c82.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...155c6d0579.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...535e651f92.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...be6b9738ea.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...2b3d171d18.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...3f770528e0.jpg transfer case.... with the stock jk cable used a stock cable bracket off a patriot or something and cut it up to fit my needs. i didnt get a chance to copy it out onto cardstock so when i do the bracket again for the Goose ill be sure to get my templates done so i can turn it into a CAD file. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...0309830bf6.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...9f3efa2598.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...bf2b4ba8ea.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...b386b7b301.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...55bcfb27e8.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...ba71294eca.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...228a8551ed.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...b57290fb15.jpg |
For the tranny and TCase cable connections I welded a stud in place and got rid of the ball and socket idea. Standard cable fits over the bolt and used a Nylok nut and two larger panel washers so that if the ball collapsed I would still be able to change TCase or tranny gears. My TCase came off on the trail in the middle of a mud hole trying to go to L range and left me in neutral. Hence the better idea than Mopar's.
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sixty4x4... great minds think alike lol.. i did just that on the tcase lever- well close. got rid of the stud and for now, ran a bolt through it and the shifter cable eyelet. the stock shifter cable bushing was already long gone. the id of the eyelet iirc was about 7/16 so a 7/16 bolt a few washers and a properly adjusted lock nut and we're shifting. i ran into one issue but i think its resolvable with a new cable, and or like any other t case, it needs to be 'rolling' just a little bit to ease it into 4wd low. dead stopped the stock jk shifter cable doesnt have enough strength in it when it is extending into the 4wd low position and the cable starts to give/deflect. robs been chasing some other bugs lately and he has 2wd, 4wd high neutral without any issue so 4low isnt at the top of the list right now.
we had a sloppy shifter lever in the budget 4l60 he got. a call down to the local trans shop we use resulted in a 'those transmissions are notorious for the nut on the end of the shaft inside the trans backing off and creating the scenario you got." rob dropped the pan to find this said nut, hanging on the end of the shifter shaft by 1 thread, so we'd say this was our culprit. as far as the front output on the 241c- got the AA adapter yoke for $60 and fit just like we hoped. absolutely surprising to us is that his stock front driveshaft- swapped out years ago to a woods DC shaft- fit the set up :thumbsup: so no new driveshaft or additional cost needed there! right now hes got about 80 miles on the jeep- primarily because he only lives 2.5 miles from the shop- hes made a few other runs around town and hes dealing with what we believe to be a stuck injector. stuck open injector :doh:. hes getting a pluff of smoke on start up, rich smell out of the exhaust and said he burned through 1/4 tank on a short run to his kids football game about 15/20 minutes from the house. i mean not surprising at all as the injectors have been sitting in the intake and im sure the PO didnt drain the fuel from the lines... and the engine had been sitting in the back of the shop for id say almost 3 years. i wouldnt be surprised if more than 1 were failing. hes got some new injectors on the way and hopefully that will be resolved this week. budgetwise, rob did end up selling a six speed trans the other day so we'll take that $500 sale and drop it into the spreadsheet. I should be almost all done with the project spreadsheet -- as the jeep is running and driving. the only system that we have not 'completed' is the AC system. we got the AC compressor adapter in so rob just needs to figure out line and fitting placement. i left him a bag of fittings so he can tell me what works 'best' to complete the system. stock line from firewall to condenser, the #10 stock line will be cut and married to a new #10 line that will run to the compressor, then just have to build a new discharge line from the Compressor to the condenser with a pressure switch and high side pressure port in it. thing is temps dropped in MI the other day to mid 40s-60s so AC lines arent on the top of the to do list. ill just budget it out based on the fittings and estimated hose lengths as soon as he provides that info. if he doesnt get it to me in the near future, i should be at that point on the GOOSE build im doing here in AZ which is the sister build to Robs. One thing I now know for sure on this build program... The stock GEN3 truck driver side accessory drive brackets WILL NOT WORK with the JK/JKU swap. The primary issue is the power steering pump assembly, contacts the stock JK gear box. either the engine would need to go back another 1 or so which cant happen with the exhaust headers, or the gear box would have to be moved forward that same 1+" which isnt going to happen. SO short version is that ICT brackets and a LS1 ps pump is going to be required- UNLESS theres a replacement saginaw type 2 pump out there with an external reservoir that will drop into the bracket and has the correct pulley offset. maybe ill give PSC a call this week and see what they know. |
did I miss seeing the total spread sheet?
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no you didnt.. trying to get it finished up tonight.
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ok my apologies as i have been busy. have a hemi swap in from tennessee, working on the goose project which is LS retro swap #2, designing actual parts for the 'kit' from my original solutions in robs jeep here... as well as rentals coming in and out... and just was advised we have to find a new shop in MI as the landlord is selling the building and not renewing our lease soooooo Good Times :hitfan:
couple quick updates.. Rob took the jeep out on its shake down run last weekend and it did well. a few bugs to be worked out in the actual tune.. it needs to get an actual tune in it, not just the standard security vats delete and emissions shut off stuff. also rob split a trans line as he moved them when putting the ac bracket and compressor in and didnt secure them in the right spot... nor check the bump on the rig... so hes learning... a quick splice and some clamps and he was back on the trails. he said the stock jeep radiator worked and brought the jeep back into normal after hill climbs or obstacles.... but he said he would rather have a bigger radiator in it in the future. ENTER the radiator combo set up Im doing in the GOOSE build... everything stock functions as it should other than AC controls from the factory switch. ac will be a stand alone system... lights, turn, windows, wipers, sprayer, radio, heater, defrost etc low speed and high speed fan functions as well. over the last few weeks back here in az, i took my original solutions from robs jeep in reference the ecu mount, TAC mount, relay box mount for starters and created some prototypes with the help of my local plasma/cad guy. after my conversation with rob and cooling considerations, i started designing a new radiator mount set up that would mount a big 2 core 3" wide radiator with dual 12" fans... theres a few set up like this out there but their associated price tags just are seemingly excessive so i wanted to see if i could produce a similar product at a better price point... i believe that i will have achieved that. DIY kit parts that will be coming out... ECU mounting tray and ecu brackets TAC module tray Relay Mount bracket- tray tie-in radiator mount kit for red rocks cyclone Radiator and Fan kik trans cooler bracket and full kit- cooler mounts compatible with radiator upper mount engine cover- matches radiator upper mount plate and gives the engine bay a trick look overall. HERES A SNEAK PEAK OF THE NEW STUFF.... https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...9d49b7922d.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...5661cd861c.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...e921e5ad07.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...dca1deac57.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...b91f6adc7d.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...deafe09e43.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...4410fef421.jpg |
FOR THE FINAL NUMBERS.... YES I HIT THE MARK!:clap::ya::cheers:
All in all its has been a fun project and ALOT has come out of it.... when rob was at the jeep event, he said if he wasnt driving.. he was talking to people... adding that guys from another offroad shop spent 30/40 minutes climbing in out under around the jeep... so i believe it hit its mark across the board. OK for the numbers.... doing it ourselves with fabbing the majority the needed brackets from left over flat sheet or home depot offerings... and utilizing the the cooler mount and the old trans mount version 1.0 we repurposed from our hemi kits... overall it went well. the cooler mount you could make from HD flat strap and the trans mount from a piece of flat sheet as well but we had them readily available.... and will now make them readily available to everyone..:thumbsup: ok here we go... i figured out how to save the spreadsheet as a image but apparently not how to resize it lol https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...05785e9ca6.png https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...9f20acd06a.png https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...a169b30294.png https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jk-...d02353b737.png |
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