are those spring perches set at a 10 degree offset angle ? If not then you might still need the wedges unless they weld them on to offset for the spring bow, something to ask anyway .the guy at rough country i talked to said my stock spring perches were off around 10 degrees. I read the description on those teraflex ones and it said " Details
These rear axle spring pads can be us when swapping in a rear axle from another vehicle. They are threaded to use a spring retainer for each spring to keep your spring in place during difficult off road situations. Note: Welding required "
You could always cut the stock spring perches and rotate them a little, but if you go with a taller lift one day you might have to rotate them more to compensate for that.

 

Found this one also w w w.currieenterprises.com/CESTORE/ProductsRE.aspx?id=3126

 

around 42 its starts its shimmy to dw. I have checked everything with no luck

 

that woud be good but I wanted to cheap way $30 and no welding option. Probably get it on there once I figure the dw issue

 

interceptor and i were talking and thought that maybe the rear coil springs bowing might have something to do with the DW ( spring loads under incorrect angles ). I re-torqued everything under the front end and inspected it as i went along using plannman's DW check list...and it still does it

 

Yep, these are supposed to basically replace the stock perch. As in, grind off the stock perch, rotate the pinion angle to the desired amount and reposition the coil to where they're at a 90° angle, and weld them on. Yes, it would be a permanent mount, and if you changed lifts down the line, you'd need to redo this again. But, in my case, once I go to the Teraflex 4" kit, I'm staying there - no higher . Going with taller lifts doesn't gain any clearance advantage at the axle anyways, so the only change for down the line would be going to 37s, once I have a solution for the Front axle.

Exactly the same concept as the Tera perches, with the exception that the Tera comes as a kit with two, and includes coil spring retainers.

Did you have someone get in the Jeep, have the engine OFF, and tried hard to turn the steering wheel from left to right and back? Doing this showed a flexing in my trackbar drop bracket when I used to have one - not much, just about 1/4" flexing, but that was enough to cause the original shimmy I was having (Not DW). You probably have, but just thought I'd restate the obvious

If you do that before I get my perches welded on, let me know how it goes. I'm not opposed to correction wedges, but I'd rather have a more permanent solution.

Here's a picture of what my rear coils look like. It didn't look this way when I had stock control arms, and there was no contact with the rear trackbar. The Teraflex Rear UCA is set as short as it will go, and the rear of the passenger coil makes contact with the JKS trackbar, enough to loosen up the jam nut .






On to another question Duane. I was under my JK earlier, and noticed something weird. Remember when you said that the stock rear driveshaft has U Joints?? Guess what???

Transfer Case end:


Axle end:


No U-Joints. Just flanges on both ends on a Constant Velocity DS. Wonder if something changed between model years because I could've swore the picture you showed me that had a U-Joint on the transfer case side said it came off of a 2007 JK Unlimited. Notice the pinion angle vs. DS angle on the second image there. I have a feeling that is the cause of my stock DS woes.

 

Yep looked at the Trac and no movement. Well that I cannot tell. I will look again

 

My movement/flexing was not in the trackbar itself, it was the trackbar drop bracket shifting at the point that it bolts on to the frame. Just to clarify. The torque on the bolt holding the trackbar to the drop bracket and the trackbar to the axle side was spot on. But no matter how much I torqued down the bolts holding the drop bracket to the frame, it'd still shift.

 

All these posts are making me feel good about my plan to keep my suspension stock and go with metal cloak fenders. You can run 37s with no lift. I may not have the most articulation, but doesn't seem it's worth all the potential issues and wear and tear to lift. I can't see myself going bigger than 35's unless I win the lottery or something.

 

There's always a price to pay for capabilities