$700 or Less Lift and 37's? Without sacrificing ride quality and drive shaft mods
Hey guys. I'm on a tight budget, and want to get 37's under my Rubi Unlimited. I'm a newbie and reading a ton, but there's so many difference of opinions out there.
I just think the 37's fit and look right under an Unlimited. 35's fit and look perfect under a 2 door.
I travel off road for work in the oilfield quite a bit, so ride quality is important as well.
I would like to know if anyone can tell me or point me in the right direction of a lift setup that will allow for 37" tires, without any mods to drive shafts, still keeping my factory sway disco's and not require me to spend more than say 6-700 for the lift.
I'm going to try and keep my factory gun metal wheels with spacers so that I can get the tires I want.
If you have pics of the setup on your jeep, please post.
I just think the 37's fit and look right under an Unlimited. 35's fit and look perfect under a 2 door.
I travel off road for work in the oilfield quite a bit, so ride quality is important as well.
I would like to know if anyone can tell me or point me in the right direction of a lift setup that will allow for 37" tires, without any mods to drive shafts, still keeping my factory sway disco's and not require me to spend more than say 6-700 for the lift.
I'm going to try and keep my factory gun metal wheels with spacers so that I can get the tires I want.
If you have pics of the setup on your jeep, please post.
Hey guys. I'm on a tight budget, and want to get 37's under my Rubi Unlimited. I'm a newbie and reading a ton, but there's so many difference of opinions out there.
I just think the 37's fit and look right under an Unlimited. 35's fit and look perfect under a 2 door.
I travel off road for work in the oilfield quite a bit, so ride quality is important as well.
I would like to know if anyone can tell me or point me in the right direction of a lift setup that will allow for 37" tires, without any mods to drive shafts, still keeping my factory sway disco's and not require me to spend more than say 6-700 for the lift.
I'm going to try and keep my factory gun metal wheels with spacers so that I can get the tires I want.
If you have pics of the setup on your jeep, please post.
I just think the 37's fit and look right under an Unlimited. 35's fit and look perfect under a 2 door.
I travel off road for work in the oilfield quite a bit, so ride quality is important as well.
I would like to know if anyone can tell me or point me in the right direction of a lift setup that will allow for 37" tires, without any mods to drive shafts, still keeping my factory sway disco's and not require me to spend more than say 6-700 for the lift.
I'm going to try and keep my factory gun metal wheels with spacers so that I can get the tires I want.
If you have pics of the setup on your jeep, please post.
I'm only wanting the best possible setup for around $700 to put the 37's under, not the whole package for $700. I have already got my tires picked out.
I do appreciate the breakdown and though put into your detailed response and I'm sure it will help others out as well. That's why this forum is great!
I do appreciate the breakdown and though put into your detailed response and I'm sure it will help others out as well. That's why this forum is great!
I agree that the unlimited's look more balanced with 37's but I think you have to put at least $2000 for components. Gears cost at least $1000 and a good lift for tires that big at least $600 bucks and then you have all the other components and mods you would need.
Trending Topics
Planman has a lot of good advice. Here's a little more that might help.
Keep the front lift under 4". I have a so-called 3" lift that also took the rake out by lifting the front almost 5". You'll trash your front driveshaft CV boot the first time you hit max articulation. That's something you'll do if you use the swaybar auto disco off road.
37's won't fit under the stock fenders unless you lift more than 4". If you don't mind a bit of rubbing now and then you'll probably be OK. Otherwise, trim them away. If you drive on muddy roads you'll probably want to put some protection back on, like flat flares. No flares will fling dirt into places you didn't even know you had!
It's not just the pinch seam that might need some attention. My rear 35's would hit the rock rail on occasion when fully articulated. Had to trim a couple of inches off the rock rail too.
You could go with no programmer, but your speedo will be way off and the tranny shift points will be down right ugly. You can go fairly cheap on the programmer. You can get an AEV Procal for about $150 to reset the tire height - and use it for the gear change when you get there. You probably won't notice a lot of difference with a full-blown programmer like a Hypertech or Superchips until you do something about air intake, exhaust, and gearing. You can get a Hypertech Econ for under $200 if you shop around, and upgrade it later without having to buy more hardware.
35's on a $700 lift budget is a slam dunk. 37's not so much. You should be able to find plenty of threads on each of these topics.
Keep the front lift under 4". I have a so-called 3" lift that also took the rake out by lifting the front almost 5". You'll trash your front driveshaft CV boot the first time you hit max articulation. That's something you'll do if you use the swaybar auto disco off road.
37's won't fit under the stock fenders unless you lift more than 4". If you don't mind a bit of rubbing now and then you'll probably be OK. Otherwise, trim them away. If you drive on muddy roads you'll probably want to put some protection back on, like flat flares. No flares will fling dirt into places you didn't even know you had!
It's not just the pinch seam that might need some attention. My rear 35's would hit the rock rail on occasion when fully articulated. Had to trim a couple of inches off the rock rail too.
You could go with no programmer, but your speedo will be way off and the tranny shift points will be down right ugly. You can go fairly cheap on the programmer. You can get an AEV Procal for about $150 to reset the tire height - and use it for the gear change when you get there. You probably won't notice a lot of difference with a full-blown programmer like a Hypertech or Superchips until you do something about air intake, exhaust, and gearing. You can get a Hypertech Econ for under $200 if you shop around, and upgrade it later without having to buy more hardware.
35's on a $700 lift budget is a slam dunk. 37's not so much. You should be able to find plenty of threads on each of these topics.
$500 rear driveshaft will eventually be needed on a 2 door lifted over 2.5".
Rob
I did mine on a budget for sure. I just got mine onto 37's and have had no issues yet. I went with the Rock Krawler 3.5 entry level with procomp shocks. Right around $700. Found some used 37's for cheap on craigslist to test out how they ride and love em. This lift actually gave me 4.5". They say it's supposed to settle a bit but it's been over a year now and still have 4.5". I had to trim the Rubi rock rails and the rear pinch seam. I also have a stubby front bumper so that took care of any possible rubbing up front. I'm also on 1.5" spidertrax spacers. I thought for sure I'd rub a little while flexing it out but I've had it out wheeling a few times with still no rubbing yet so hope this helps. I'm sure there is plenty more I should be adding/replacing but all in good time I suppose.






