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Modified JK Tech Tech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.

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$8k budget

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Old Jun 26, 2015 | 11:43 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Trevo

Based on this alone I'm going to skip going with the 6pak shocks, I don't want to have to tinker with them all the time nor do I want to have the hassle of refilling a shock with nitrogen or rebuilding it. I also wheel in the rocks a lot.

To answer others questions it is a 2007 jeep wrangler unlimited x, non-rubi. 6spd manual.

The trails I've completed so far are Hackett Gulch, Bordenville Gulch, Illinois Gulch and Twin Cones.....hackett gulch being the hardest IMO due to my tires are going to need to be replaced soon and I was a noob and never aired down. (makes a huge difference) but I managed ok.
Look into going with a better front axle then if you plan on going 37s later. I'd start there and then budget accordingly
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Old Jun 26, 2015 | 12:38 PM
  #12  
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Oh man, this got easy. 35s, 6 speed, and wheeling rocks a lot.

Before you even pass go, swap the t-case for a 4:1 Rubicon case. You'll be miserable wheeling rocks and probably evaporate your clutch. With a manual, you don't want to use the clutch. Leave it in first and let it crawl. Won't happen with the standard t-case.

My Jk was a 2013 6 speed. I put 35s on right away. Went wheeling. Went home and found a new t-case. I had maybe a few thousand miles on my jeep. By far the best mod I have ever done. And if you know my Jeep, you know that's a meaningful statement.
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Old Jun 26, 2015 | 12:50 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Invest2m4
Oh man, this got easy. 35s, 6 speed, and wheeling rocks a lot.

Before you even pass go, swap the t-case for a 4:1 Rubicon case. You'll be miserable wheeling rocks and probably evaporate your clutch. With a manual, you don't want to use the clutch. Leave it in first and let it crawl. Won't happen with the standard t-case.

My Jk was a 2013 6 speed. I put 35s on right away. Went wheeling. Went home and found a new t-case. I had maybe a few thousand miles on my jeep. By far the best mod I have ever done. And if you know my Jeep, you know that's a meaningful statement.
so this would solve the problem of stalling out going over boulders etc? I got good at learning how to feather the clutch after it stalled a few times, annoyed the shit out of me. I'm assuming it will be worse with bigger tires?
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Old Jun 26, 2015 | 12:56 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Trevo
so this would solve the problem of stalling out going over boulders etc? I got good at learning how to feather the clutch after it stalled a few times, annoyed the shit out of me. I'm assuming it will be worse with bigger tires?
You should not be feathering the clutch while wheeling. Yes, with the rubi case, toss it in 1st, let the clutch out and go. Most of the time, I don't even use the gas. It just crawls. If it is really steep with traction or tires are getting caught in rocks, then it needs a little. You almost have to try and make it stall.

35s will bring the suck with the case you have. Trust me, you'll love it and the money you save from not replacing your clutch will pay for it twice over.

You can usually find them for $900-$1000. The swap is really easy. If you can install a lift or driveshaft, you can swap the case. Any rubi case will work for you, except one out of a 2012+ automatic. The output shaft on the new auto trans changed, so those are an odd one. Anything is plug and play.
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Old Jun 26, 2015 | 04:48 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Trevo
Based on this alone I'm going to skip going with the 6pak shocks, I don't want to have to tinker with them all the time nor do I want to have the hassle of refilling a shock with nitrogen or rebuilding it. I also wheel in the rocks a lot. To answer others questions it is a 2007 jeep wrangler unlimited x, non-rubi. 6spd manual. The trails I've completed so far are Hackett Gulch, Bordenville Gulch, Illinois Gulch and Twin Cones.....hackett gulch being the hardest IMO due to my tires are going to need to be replaced soon and I was a noob and never aired down. (makes a huge difference) but I managed ok.
Based on this:

Find a pair of used take-off Rubicon Dana 44s already regeared to 5.13s or 4.88s, but preferably 5.13s. This should cost you around $3500.

As suggested above, find a take off Rubicon transfer case and swap it. This should cost around $1,000.

Trim your front and rear fender flares flat. There are several threads on how to do this. Free.

Run a 2.5" lift that contains springs, longer rear swaybar links, rear brakeline relocation brackets, a rear trackbar relocation bracket, front swaybar quick disconnects, 2.5" rear extended bumpstops, 1.5" front extended bumpstops, and longer shocks. This will run maybe $800-$1000 depending on the quality of the components.

Cut your front bumper to a stubby, or run a PureJeep BareBonz or similar minimalist front bumper. This is less than $300.

Run an OR Fab or similar rear tub mounted tire carrier. Less than $500.

Run an engine/oil pan skid and an EVAP skid. This will run about $400 plus or minus.

Run a Superchips Flashpaq towing tune for power and to be able to program your speedometer.

You can get about $1000 for your take off axles and $500 for your take off transfer case.

That leaves you $2000 for 37s with steel wheels. At the very least, buy a used tire for your spare, if not the entire set.

That leaves you around $1000 for labor.
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Old Jun 26, 2015 | 06:07 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by planman
Based on this:

Find a pair of used take-off Rubicon Dana 44s already regeared to 5.13s or 4.88s, but preferably 5.13s. This should cost you around $3500.

As suggested above, find a take off Rubicon transfer case and swap it. This should cost around $1,000.the 2007-11 transfer case will work from either a manual or automatic. 2012 and up only the manual transfer cases will work.

Trim your front and rear fender flares flat. There are several threads on how to do this. Free.

Run a 2.5" lift that contains springs, longer rear swaybar links, rear brakeline relocation brackets, a rear trackbar relocation bracket, front swaybar quick disconnects, 2.5" rear extended bumpstops, 1.5" front extended bumpstops, and longer shocks. This will run maybe $800-$1000 depending on the quality of the components.

Cut your front bumper to a stubby, or run a PureJeep BareBonz or similar minimalist front bumper. This is less than $300.

Run an OR Fab or similar rear tub mounted tire carrier. Less than $500.

Run an engine/oil pan skid and an EVAP skid. This will run about $400 plus or minus.

Run a Superchips Flashpaq towing tune for power and to be able to program your speedometer.

You can get about $1000 for your take off axles and $500 for your take off transfer case.

That leaves you $2000 for 37s with steel wheels. At the very least, buy a used tire for your spare, if not the entire set.

That leaves you around $1000 for labor.
solid build idea.
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Old Jun 26, 2015 | 06:37 PM
  #17  
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Since it's an 07 X model, do u have a d35 rear? If so, thats going to need to be upgraded.

EDIT: I could be completely wrong because I have only seen a d35 come in a 2 door and never a 4 door before...

Last edited by GreatWhite JK; Jun 26, 2015 at 06:51 PM.
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Old Jun 26, 2015 | 07:47 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by planman
Based on this:
Thank you Planman, you went over the top and I appreciate it. I'm taking notes and will be researching all of your suggestions to put a solid price / build together.
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Old Jun 27, 2015 | 05:55 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Trevo
Thank you Planman, you went over the top and I appreciate it. I'm taking notes and will be researching all of your suggestions to put a solid price / build together.
Jon "Co4Lo" on jkowners is in Colorado Springs and will sometimes do builds for people. He owns Co4Lo off road.
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Old Jun 28, 2015 | 05:02 PM
  #20  
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Those trails you mention aren't hard - I have done eagle rock/saran wrap, bull park, spring creek, etc. in my stock JKUR. I would wheel it longer and figure out what you need vs want, it makes you a hell of a better driver if you learn on something stock or less capable. Also if you are still living in an apt I'd put $8k towards a house, not my jeep.

That being said, I do have a full set of Teraflex Control arms for sale with new joints, asking $750.
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