I'm about to upgrade from a 2.5" Teraflex coil lift to a 3" Teraflex. I know that new driveshafts are needed so they've been planned into the budget. However, I'm seeing a lot of 1310 DS and 1311 DS from multiple companies and have no clue what the difference is. Also, will both work for me?

I've reasearched all over the forum, as well as google, but come up with nothing.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I've got a 2Dr X with a 6sp trans if that makes a difference.

Thanks in advance.

 

I only know of 1310 and 1350 drive shafts. Haven't heard of 1310.

Here's a 1310 vs 1350 thread to get you started on the search.

 

unless you are going with a hemi and 60's i would go 1310. you get more flex in the joint and a u joint is easy to repair on the trail. axle shafts and gears suck to break. a 1350 is overkill in a bad way in my opinion, but many run it.

 

Spend a few minutes out on Tom Woods website, lots of good info. And as noted above, 1310's should be plenty stout for the majority of JK's out there.

 

During my research before starting the thread, I found that the 1350 was heavier duty compared to the 1310. However, I'm still unsure the difference between the 1310 and 1311.

Heres a link for both.....

1311:
http://www.quadratec.com/vendor/Tom+...afts/index.htm


1310:
4x4groupbuy.com/store/woods-rear-driveshaft-with-1310-ujoints-p-7292.html?osCsid=5a78cd2f891390765ea459f314e8f363


Thanks for the input guys...

 

i belive 1311 is a misprint on that site. i know they are a sponser but i would recomend ordering from northridge and going with coast for about 400 bucks shipped, or go with the woods shaft directly from them. i also would go with new yokes instead of flange style.

 

1310 is the Dana series for the UJ and related compoents. It's based on the
UJ bearing capacity, durability and fatigue strength. (ie 1350 > 1310 for strength and other atributes) The Stock JK (known an SPL27) also uses a Dana shaft but with staked UJs. The staked UJ design offers better balance capability but is difficuot to service. It is also a splined tube and has larger OD. The 1311 is either a knockoff or misprint. Bottom line stick to genuine Dana parts and make sure to get the cold formed cross (more strength and improved sealing). You can tell the difference by the surface finish. Compare the axle shaft UJ cross to the prop shaft UJ.
Axle shaft = hot forged
Prop = cold formed.