Same .5 using RK arms.

 

Nice setup, all except the duals stabs.

 

So what they did was use RK rear control arms and basically extended the control arms as much as possible, to give the axle a near 2" stretch when the jeep is on stock JKUR springs. Cutting weight and stiffer springs actually raised the jeep shortening the wheelbase and they pushed it back 2" from the new wheelbase they got from the minor lift. Essentially, these guys that have commented saying they pushed the axle back .5" did the same thing (i think). Dropping wight on our 2 doors will help significantly with performance and stance, but it makes tuning things because everything is made for heavy jeeps and lots of armor. If you want this stance, just purchase a set of adjustable upper and lower control arms, and pushe the axle back a bit. A lot of people complain about the rear sway bar, if you remove weight from your jeep, get rid of the rear sway bar, it ends up doing nothing once you drop rear weight(experience).

I would take the advice they have though, but instead of take off or stock coils, if you wanna stay LCOG, go with progressive tj or xj coils that have been used. I have used 3" pregressive RE tj coils on my jeep for a while now, and they ride well, ended up giving me 3" of lift with a winch up front. The front tj coils are stiffer, but shorter usually. So a jk will get almost equal lift unless you have a heavy bumper too.


I'm not really sure if anyone noticed, but that jeep has a tad bit more work done to it than what they stated. It looks oddly familiar to what i've done with mine, minus the frame chop and aftermarket front bumper. For starters, their front coils are not stock in the last picture. Those are gray, and have a higher coil count than stock jk and jku coils.

 

Unless that jeep has custom length arms or RK has lengthened their joint shanks there is not much holding the joint to the arm if he actually pushed the axle back 2".
There are lots of other errors in his design as well. 37's are going to rub with factory wheels and spidertrac adapters. Looks like they are using the shocks as bump stops as they were replaced and there was the statement that no addition front bump stop was added. No actual mention of what shocks they went with. If they actually moved the rear axle back 2" there would be conflicts with the track bar and with the sway bar but no mention there either. Installing Rubicon coils is a misnomer as well, they should have used the coil numbers as there is nothing special about the Rubicon coils unless it comes off the 10A which had coils not available on other models.

I agree with the premise of the story and the mild lift but they are leaving a lot out on the set up or are having quite a few issues. The dual front steering stabilizers make you scratch your head as well.
Too bad this stuff is put out there and new jeepers read it and think they can get the look and performance on the cheap when in reality it is a compromised set up.

 

Dirtman is correct regarding the arms. The smaller shank of the RK arms is fine, but has very limited adjustability. You don't want much thread exposed on those arms.

 

The older arms would not let you adjust in much more than +1" so there should only be 1" of shank showing and enough engaged 2" back.
2" w/ the newer arms would not leave enough thread engaged.

 

In an isolated test in a lab, the machinist rule of thumb is 1.5" the diameter as the min. That said, it doesn't take into consideration the lateral force a link has to endure. In addition, you can easily assume that some reasonable percentage of people own't get jam nuts tight enough or have some that loosen a little. For a link and especially for steering, you want as much over the min as possible. I can't tell how many times I've seen a joint stripped out of the threads.

Personally, I make everything so there is just a handful of threads exposed. I start to cringe at an inch with typical JK joints, which have some really long shanks as it is.

 

Agree Makes a lot of sense.

 

Started my RK 3" yesterday with disassembly.

Northridge 4x4

 

And I learned that I'll have to modify my LOD bolt on sliders because the lower long arm mounts interfere.

Northridge 4x4