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33" MT to 35" AT

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Old Jan 29, 2016 | 05:41 PM
  #1  
Emptied Each Pocket's Avatar
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Default 33" MT to 35" AT

So, due to some recent life changes, my jeep will be used for long commutes on the highway, unlike before.

Because of that, I am looking to change my set up from 33" mud tires on 15x8 steel wheels to a 35" all terrain on 17x8.5/9 aluminum wheel.

My reasoning is because it took a lot of weight to balance the wheels and they still ride pretty bad. (Lug centric as well). Also, the Deegan 38s I currently have are pretty loud at highway speeds. And... I want 35s.

Now here's where I need some help... How much more prone would I be to breaking things on the trail? In my head, the weight and traction difference should make up for the taller tire. Also, how much more awful is my 6-speed with 3.21s going to feel in the city? If I'm going to be that much more likely to bend or break an axle/shaft, I will just stick with a higher quality 33x12.50 MT on 17s.
Thanks in advance, this has been something I've been debating for a few weeks now, and would really like some honest opinions.
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Old Jan 29, 2016 | 06:04 PM
  #2  
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I will be honest I have 35" trail grapplers on 17"s and they are very quiet and great for my city daily driver. However they are really heavy. Love them so far and they are very tall
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Old Jan 29, 2016 | 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Emptied Each Pocket
So, due to some recent life changes, my jeep will be used for long commutes on the highway, unlike before.

Because of that, I am looking to change my set up from 33" mud tires on 15x8 steel wheels to a 35" all terrain on 17x8.5/9 aluminum wheel.

My reasoning is because it took a lot of weight to balance the wheels and they still ride pretty bad. (Lug centric as well). Also, the Deegan 38s I currently have are pretty loud at highway speeds. And... I want 35s.

Now here's where I need some help... How much more prone would I be to breaking things on the trail? In my head, the weight and traction difference should make up for the taller tire. Also, how much more awful is my 6-speed with 3.21s going to feel in the city? If I'm going to be that much more likely to bend or break an axle/shaft, I will just stick with a higher quality 33x12.50 MT on 17s.
Thanks in advance, this has been something I've been debating for a few weeks now, and would really like some honest opinions.
I know this is going to sound like blasphemy but. When I was faced with driving 55 miles one way to work(Wilmington NC) (In 2008). I went and bought a 2004 Toyota Echo for like ($4500) dam thing got 40 miles to the gallon when regular was around $3.45 a gallon. I had a 2006 Chevy Colorado 4x4 single cab 6" lift 35's Bushwacker Fenders Eaton E locker in the rear dam thing got 15Mpg on a good day. I just did not want to put the miles on my truck plus the thing rode like crap. Leaf Springs over axle with 2" shakles was not a commuter vehicle. Best bet if its an option is to either trade vehicles with your wife if she does not have to commute so long or buy you a Japanese beater that you can put commuter miles on with.

If you can't do that and have to put miles on your Jeep Stick with 33's and AT. Especially with 3.21's ..
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Old Jan 29, 2016 | 06:33 PM
  #4  
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Originally Posted by red2010rubi
I will be honest I have 35" trail grapplers on 17"s and they are very quiet and great for my city daily driver. However they are really heavy. Love them so far and they are very tall
those are definitely in consideration of I decide to go with a 33x12.50
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Old Jan 29, 2016 | 06:38 PM
  #5  
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I have heard duratracs are very light if your looking for an aggressive at tire.
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Old Jan 29, 2016 | 06:58 PM
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It's between that and the KO2 if I decide to get a 35" AT. I'm leaning towards the KO2 so far though.
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Old Jan 29, 2016 | 07:28 PM
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The KO2's are fantastic tires all around. I am in the similar situation to you and trying to convince myself to just go 35's, and the KO2 is my tire of choice. I wish they offered it in a 285/75 like the KM2 for a happy medium between the two.

RockZJ
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Old Jan 30, 2016 | 05:47 AM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by Jonathan_JK
I know this is going to sound like blasphemy but. When I was faced with driving 55 miles one way to work(Wilmington NC) (In 2008). I went and bought a 2004 Toyota Echo for like ($4500) dam thing got 40 miles to the gallon when regular was around $3.45 a gallon. I had a 2006 Chevy Colorado 4x4 single cab 6" lift 35's Bushwacker Fenders Eaton E locker in the rear dam thing got 15Mpg on a good day. I just did not want to put the miles on my truck plus the thing rode like crap. Leaf Springs over axle with 2" shakles was not a commuter vehicle. Best bet if its an option is to either trade vehicles with your wife if she does not have to commute so long or buy you a Japanese beater that you can put commuter miles on with. If you can't do that and have to put miles on your Jeep Stick with 33's and AT. Especially with 3.21's ..
It's funny you say that, because my sons mother and I just split up, and she moved back to her parents, roughly 60 miles away. I was using her civic up until that. I have a car (Japanese beater, if you will), I just have the motor out for some tuning. Go figure.

Last edited by Emptied Each Pocket; Jan 30, 2016 at 05:49 AM.
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Old Jan 30, 2016 | 07:23 AM
  #9  
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I agree, I have the ko2s also and they have been great for me. It was between the duratracs and ko2s when I was looking.
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Old Jan 30, 2016 | 05:15 PM
  #10  
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Life's too short to spend the money on and drive a good mileage beater. I recommend getting what you want, doing it right the first time, and get your 35's now and regear, too. 315 70 17 Duratracs are light and quiet. Regearing mine ($500-800 per axle) made a WORLD of difference in power and also improved gas mileage due to the engine not having to work so hard against wind at freeway speed. A leveling kit or 2-2.5" budget boost would clear them
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