33's with 3.21 gears?????
01-04-2011, 04:40 AM
#21
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Originally Posted by IcyFridge
I run 33s with a 3.21 six speed and I have no problems. I can hold 65+ on the highway in 6th, unless theres a head wind or incline. Most of the time I just run in 5th gear unless I'm above 70 mph.
The real problem comes with mountain highways, where a lot of shifting has to be done. I think the 3.21s are just fine and my jeep scoots around quickly in the city. Getting about 17mpg overall.
Would I prefer better gears? Yeah.... WITH 35s. 33s are not that much bigger than stock and 3.21s are just fine.
The real problem comes with mountain highways, where a lot of shifting has to be done. I think the 3.21s are just fine and my jeep scoots around quickly in the city. Getting about 17mpg overall.
Would I prefer better gears? Yeah.... WITH 35s. 33s are not that much bigger than stock and 3.21s are just fine.
01-04-2011, 04:54 AM
#22
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I have 275/65R18s on 3.21:1 gearing. I spend most of my time on pavement as the jeep is my DD, including road trips in excess of 1600 km every few months. The tires measure out at almost exactly 32". That's apparently close to what most "33's" measure out to be. Local shops want around $2500 to regear. I play around with the idea to eventually go to 34s or 35s, but know that my economy will be crap. On summer gas I can get around 22 mpg on the long road trips, calc'd by hand. My 32's do just fine offroad as NorthernWrangler said.
I do need to shift down to go up some highway grades, but that's the beauty of the stick. If you look at the gear charts, realize that you can get yourself into that power band by moving the stick from "6" to "4" and back again. I skip 5th for some hills on the downshift. I don't quite understand the concept of leaving a manual transmission in a single gear for different conditions. Maybe that's from driving a lot in mountainous terrain, where you always need to be shifting anyways.
Do I wish I had 4.10s? Sure. But not enough to drop $2500 into up here. The difference isn't worth it to me.
I do need to shift down to go up some highway grades, but that's the beauty of the stick. If you look at the gear charts, realize that you can get yourself into that power band by moving the stick from "6" to "4" and back again. I skip 5th for some hills on the downshift. I don't quite understand the concept of leaving a manual transmission in a single gear for different conditions. Maybe that's from driving a lot in mountainous terrain, where you always need to be shifting anyways.
Do I wish I had 4.10s? Sure. But not enough to drop $2500 into up here. The difference isn't worth it to me.
01-09-2011, 03:35 PM
#23
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running 35's on 3.21 gears would suck, big time. I would think you'd need new gears for sure. 33's are probably the max with the superchip, muff and all. Oh, and I have a 2" OME lift which doesn't help the "lunchbox on wheels" feeling on the freeway.
01-09-2011, 03:56 PM
#24
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If you don't plan on moving up to 35's or live in an area where the roads/terrain are relatively flat than I would re-gear to 4.10's or maybe 4.56's with 33's. I ran 33" Duratracs with 3.21's for 6 months and IMO it was not tolerable it flat out sucked even with the flashpaq, unless you live in an area where it's completely flat you'll want to re-gear. I went with 4.10's and a Truetrac and i'm happy with that, 1st and 2nd gears are quite short now but i'm not constantly shifting on the highway anymore I can hold 100kmph no problem.
01-10-2011, 04:36 AM
#25
JK Junkie
If you would drive one with 4.10 gearing you would be changing your tune. The difference is night and day. It is drivable but barely. Off road performance is so much better too. In low you can idle up steep inclines where you had to get a running start to climb before.
