35's or 37's ....
I just bought a new 2013 Sport Unlimited and I want to get it ready for the summer ...
I'm planning on a 3" lift kit (trying to figure out which lift kit will be next after I decide on tire size) and 20" wheels
My Jeep will probably NEVER be used offroad but I will certainly use it in snow in the winter
I was pretty set on doing 35's but I saw a JK Unlimited yesterday lifted on 37's and it looked amazing!!
What are the positive and negatives of running 37's?
Will I need to do anything else to the chasis/suspension run the 37's?
Will the 37's give me a steering wheel stutter at higher speeds?
Any input would be greatly appreciated - thank you in advance!!
I'm planning on a 3" lift kit (trying to figure out which lift kit will be next after I decide on tire size) and 20" wheels
My Jeep will probably NEVER be used offroad but I will certainly use it in snow in the winter
I was pretty set on doing 35's but I saw a JK Unlimited yesterday lifted on 37's and it looked amazing!!
What are the positive and negatives of running 37's?
Will I need to do anything else to the chasis/suspension run the 37's?
Will the 37's give me a steering wheel stutter at higher speeds?
Any input would be greatly appreciated - thank you in advance!!
There's a lot more to running 37's than a lift. Just e prepared to be doing some reinforcement to support them. Do your research. And just throwing it out there, did you know that 35's on 20" wheels are a gonna be a good $100+ more than 37's on 17" wheels 


$100 more per corner?
The price difference is due to wheel diameter. 37's will be cheaper on 17's but that's because the market is currently all over 17's. The thing used to be 15's (and still is with 44" swampers!) but we don't run tall and fat swampers here.
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Snow in the winter? We're in southern California what snow?! But in all seriousness if you want to go to 37's be prepared to spend some pretty decent cash to support it. Being as you are not wheeling it you should be able to get away with doing it a little cheaper but it's still not going to be cheap. If you went with a 2 inch budget boost and cut the flares you could put 37's on cheaper. Once you get to 3 inches of lift you want to start thinking about doing at least the front driveshaft. The other big thing to consider is what gear ratio you have in the axles. Being as you have a Sport you may have a 3.21 axle ratio. If that's the case then you will definitely want to regear if you go 37's otherwise it will be a dog. With 35's you will still probably want to regear but it may be tolerable to you. There is definitely more to it than lift, wheels, tires....done.
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Yes, atleast. Even prices for 18's are absurd, but to each their own. I love the look of my 15's and like to have sidewall, but that's just me 
Edit: Here ya go. 37's on 17" vs 20", $429 vs $632 a piece.
http://www.discounttiredirect.com/di...rain+T%2FA+KM2
http://www.discounttiredirect.com/di...yp=Truck%2FSUV

Edit: Here ya go. 37's on 17" vs 20", $429 vs $632 a piece.

http://www.discounttiredirect.com/di...rain+T%2FA+KM2
http://www.discounttiredirect.com/di...yp=Truck%2FSUV
Last edited by kh202; Jun 18, 2013 at 06:45 AM.
IMO 37's and not wheeling is way expensive. A set of 35s on 15s will be soo much less than the work needed to run 37s.
Do your homework; and decide on what suits you; keep in mind if you never plan on off road that the all-terrain tires are cheaper than the mud/snow tires.
Hope this helps
Do your homework; and decide on what suits you; keep in mind if you never plan on off road that the all-terrain tires are cheaper than the mud/snow tires.
Hope this helps


