I have done a lot of search and I am LOST

Can someone like WoL or other Jeep GODS PLEASE advsie

I am running 37" Tires , FT 4" Lift and SOLID 60s what is the good numbers do I need to get rid of flighty ride

CASTER ???
TOE IN ????

 

I have found the FAQ's and Write-Ups to be a decent place to start, then fine tune as needed... (unless they are specific to the D30/D44 and not the D60?)

 

thanks read the info before looks like 6 to 8 caster is the way to go. but not sure about what toe in or toe out should be on 37" tires anyone?????

 

Currie and Dynatrac both told me they built their D60 front ends to have about 5 degrees of caster with the pinion angle set properly for a CV style driveshaft. They properly assume that nobody in their right mind would have the factory POS driveshafts and D60's. So I'd try for 5 degrees and see how that feels. I initially thought more caster would be better but was told that the effective "arm" of the 37's (and larger) was long enough that it could induce some funky handling.

I don't know about toe in on 37's. I'm running my 35's at 3/32 and it is an improvement over the stock 1/16. Maybe 3/32 or 1/8 would be a good starting place. I was also told that if toe in didn't work on 37's and up perhaps a bit of toe out would cure the problem. I don't know of anybody that has done that though.

You're way out of factory spec range and into trial and error. When you get it aligned try to wangle into observing. Try to get a feel for how much change one complete rotation of a control arm or tie rod gives. When you get your printout you can make changes from there based on what you saw. It could save a bunch of money. Or get one of those lifetime alignment deals.

 

UPDATE:

OK I took her to wheel alingment shop the caster was 3+ and Toe In was 1/2"

After the alingment the postive caster is 4.8+ and Toe In is 1/8" according to WOL. The jeep drives way much better now but could not acheive 6-7+ caster bec the Full Traction control arm joints dont have enough thread left to go any further.

Also noticed the upper control arm bushing is complety worn apart does that contribute to anything.

I am going to change my control arms to JKS control arms they use OEM bushings. Does anyone have any experience with JKS control arms?

 

You should also take a look at the Teraflex control arms.

 

No wonder it handled lousy! Why do you want 6-7 degrees of caster? That is way to much for a CV shaft to run smoothly. Or are you still running stock shafts? Yes the upper control arm bushings being worn will affect things negatively.

Why do you want to run factory bushings; do you want to deliberately limit articulation? I agree with dumping the FT arms but there are better choices out there such as the Clayton arms which have a Currie JohnyJoint in one end and Clevite bonded bushing in the other. Or go with Currie arms which have JohnyJoints in both ends. If on road ride is more important than off road articulation then the JKS might be a better choice.

 

Well thats why I asked the question before going to wheel shop what caster do i need? According to Eddie WoL advise I should be aiming 6-7 degree positive caster with 1/8" Toe In.

I am running Tom Woods driveshafts with free wheeling hubs and Solid D60s so maybe thats why Eddie has recommend 6-7 caster.

But having said that I have only acheived 4.8 degree caster bec of the limitations on the arms.

Now JKS have OEM style bsuhings which are excellent for road vibrations and non squeek. According to JKS

"Aftermarket suspension arms and bushings that are less flexible will over-stress the chassis and axle mounting brackets and should not be installed. Yet many manufacturers provide these components with their suspension kits to save money"

I like Teraflex arms also but JohnnyJoints or hem joints are not good for mud. Thy are perfect for dry rock crawling.

I will have a look at Clayton and see what is it?

 

Wow they are trying to confuse you saying aftermarket joints are less flexible than stock. I would get a set of teraflex arms I have to replace a couple bushing in mine due to defect but always handle with ease to keep mud and water out of the joints that goes to lubing them after every outing I been using waterproof lube.