Looking at getting 37's possibly.. what size lift would I need and will there have to be adjustments on the driveshaft as well? What do I need? thanks

 

For 37s, you can get away with a 4" - 4.5" short-arm complete lift (~$2k) and new shafts (~$1k). If you wheel hard, you may want to trim your flares or get flatties.

Good luck.

 

Tf 4" with all 8 control arms. do a fender mod. and drive shafts. no need to go long arm or short arm.

 

look at planman's jeep it is awesome, and looks like it is a beast offroad. BTW, he owns both of those combos, the first and second he described. I would do like his 2 door.

 

I would go with a 4", or 3" and 1" body. Also for that high and staying with a short arm kit, I would get adjustable control arms upper and lower, front and rear. Some kits already come with them, it will eliminate a lot of headaches later down the road. I would also recommend driveshafts, the stock ones may last for a while, but you will have to replace them regardless, so you might as well buy everything at once and do it right. Let me know if you are interested in ordering some stuff, I would be glad to help you out to get you the right stuff.

 

I just put 37x12.50x17 Goodyear MT/R Kevlars under a Currie RockJock lift (worked out to between 4 and 5" of lift) and I don't think it will be enough.

Even with 1-1/2" wheel spacers, I am getting some rubbing on front sway bar when turning the steering at full lock and will most likely have to get a body lift as well as cut the fenders and stubby my stock bumper before I dare disconnect the swaybar off road.

-meljr

 

I know someone who is running Goodyear MTRs (the new ones) which are a true 37" tire. He has the 4.5" AEV lift and AEV wheels. He has just the slightest rub on the rear flare at full stuff. Some of the other "37's" are really 36 or 36.5". Also, I think the JKs are more sensistive to offset (back space). Unlike the TJ where you could use a wide range of backspace, I think the flares cause backspace to be more of an issue.

I think you may want to find someone who has a set up you like and copy it - including the back space on wheels.

I plan to run the stock driveshaft in the rear. I know the boot may get torn eventually, but I bought a spare for $100. If you do change the rear drive shaft, who will need to have adjustal control arms to get rid of vibrations if they pop up. (Most of the vendors saying the stock driveshafts have to be replaced sell driveshafts. keep that in mind. )