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37s with only a 2.5BB?

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Old Jul 28, 2009 | 05:32 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by manxam
Planman, thanks for all of the information that you've provided us. I do however have a question re: your flares. In your older pictures you were running Xenons and in the later you're running trimmed factories. Any reason for the change? Did the wife's rig get the xenons?

Just curious as I'm running trimmed factories now but am not really satisfied with how "thin" they look (I know, I know.. looks aren't that important) and was considering the more substantial looking Xenons.

Otherwise my setup is identical to yours save that I have a Rubi Unlimited..

Thanks!
I think he runs one set in the winter and the other in the summer or something like that.
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Old Jul 30, 2009 | 09:48 AM
  #32  
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so can you wheel 37s hard on the d30 if you upgrade shaft, gussets, truss it, etc?
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Old Jul 30, 2009 | 11:24 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by planman
It would be fine on 35s with the upgrades.

On 37s, it could last a while if you don't lock it, but it is not a long term solution .

For 37s, it would be better to sell the 30 before you do any upgrades & find a used 44 to upgrade.
thanks
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Old Jul 30, 2009 | 01:12 PM
  #34  
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another Q - is the problem with 35s vs 37s mainly the weight of the 37s?
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Old Jul 30, 2009 | 01:49 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by planman
It isn't the weight. It is the rotational torque on the axle shafts, gear teeth, u-joints, spider gears, pinion teeth, locker, axle C, axle tubes, etc.

Remember from your high school science class about the use of levers? The longer the lever, the more force applied.

For example, you do not have the strength to remove your lug nuts with a socket & your fingers. If you used a 10" long ratchet with the socket, you might be able to remove it, but you'd probably have to stand on the ratchet to get it to move. If you used a 24" long breaker bar with the socket, removal of the lug nut is relatively easy.

There is a formula (don't remember it) that calculates the increasing force the longer the lever.

Anyway, 37s are the point at which the rotational leverage exceeds the strength of the factory components--especially if lockers are used in the rocks, tires are spinning with a sudden traction, etc.

well said. thanks!
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Old Jul 30, 2009 | 03:28 PM
  #36  
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Man, I just revisited... and Sorry.

I said,

"I have 35's w/ no lift and Xenon flares and It looks pretty cool"

What I meant to say is...

"I have seen 35's w/ no lift and Xenon flares and It looks pretty cool"

Anyway not Xenons, just trimmed.

http://my.project-jk.com/member.php?uid=388&protype=1
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Old Jul 30, 2009 | 05:14 PM
  #37  
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I really like that! I bet it drives like stock and still wheels like a beast. Looks like a very usablerig.
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Old Jul 30, 2009 | 08:28 PM
  #38  
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planman, a question for you:

I am going to go from 35's to 37's or 38's in the very near future. I have been told by someone who has the same wheel as I do (the AEV Pintler with 4.7" backspacing) and is running 37's that he had to use a spacer to allow clearance for the wheel to turn and not contact at full lock. Have you found this to be the case? I'd rather not run spacers when I go to 37's or 38's. What backspacing do your wheels have?
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Old Jul 31, 2009 | 06:15 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by planman
There is a formula (don't remember it) that calculates the increasing force the longer the lever.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque ?
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Old Aug 10, 2009 | 06:39 PM
  #40  
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Default Update: Flexing

I did some wheeling yesterday and found a good poser spot to test out my flex. It does really well just as you can see from these pics and from planmans posts, but I still rub on my rear pinch seams even though I trimmed them down. I may end up just doing the BFH approach to my dilemma.




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