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5.38 gear durability

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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 06:42 AM
  #1  
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Default 5.38 gear durability

OK...I have read all of the threads I can find debating 5.13's vs 5.38's on a Rubi automatic with 37's.

With that said, I understand that the 5.38 is weaker than the 5.13 gear set. However, has anyone actually experienced a failure while running 5.38's.

My fear is installing 5.13's and forever regretting I didn't install 5.38's...
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 06:53 AM
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I was wondering the same thing

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...-D44-5-38-Auto


I decided on 5:38's, they are being installed today
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 06:55 AM
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Originally Posted by yardbird
OK...I have read all of the threads I can find debating 5.13's vs 5.38's on a Rubi automatic with 37's.

With that said, I understand that the 5.38 is weaker than the 5.13 gear set. However, has anyone actually experienced a failure while running 5.38's.

My fear is installing 5.13's and forever regretting I didn't install 5.38's...
if there is a doubt, get the latter.

you'll need to weld c gussets and install sleeves to ensure a bit more protection.

you hear about people shredding their differentials up all the time. but it's all going to be subjective to how you treat your jeep.
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by yardbird
OK...I have read all of the threads I can find debating 5.13's vs 5.38's on a Rubi automatic with 37's.

With that said, I understand that the 5.38 is weaker than the 5.13 gear set. However, has anyone actually experienced a failure while running 5.38's.

My fear is installing 5.13's and forever regretting I didn't install 5.38's...
yeah, me and only after about 3 months/10 runs. granted, i wheel pretty hard and was running 40's at the time but really, i could totally see how even a set of 37's could break em. if you don't wheel too hard, 5.38's are the ratio you'd want.

on my orange JK, i am running 5.13's and 37's and i'm happy with the setup.

Last edited by wayoflife; Jan 25, 2011 at 08:36 AM.
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 08:26 AM
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A friend of mine was running 37's when he broke his 5.38's but he wheels as well. Maybe if you don't wheel hard you can prolong the life! but I know he's the type that crawls and isn't heavy on the skinny peddle...this debate never ends....
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 08:40 AM
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Thanks for the feedback...I plan on doing the sleeving and gusseting (sp?) The housing to help prevent bending.

@wayolife were you running the 5.13's before switching to 5.38's? Or did you just go straight from 4.10's to 5.38's? If you ran 5.13's first, did you ever have a problem?
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by yardbird
Thanks for the feedback...I plan on doing the sleeving and gusseting (sp?) The housing to help prevent bending.

@wayolife were you running the 5.13's before switching to 5.38's? Or did you just go straight from 4.10's to 5.38's? If you ran 5.13's first, did you ever have a problem?
i was running 5.13's and then upgraded to 5.38's. i did not have any problems with the 5.13's but wanted the benefits of the 5.38's and so, decided to upgrade. they did not hold up and, while i still run 5.38's, i now have dynatrac prorock 60's front and rear and the r&p's on them are much bigger.
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 09:20 AM
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Thanks...that's what I was wondering
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 10:31 AM
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Ive got 20k plus on my 5.38s. No issues at all.

Flash
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by wayoflife
i was running 5.13's and then upgraded to 5.38's. i did not have any problems with the 5.13's but wanted the benefits of the 5.38's and so, decided to upgrade. they did not hold up and, while i still run 5.38's, i now have dynatrac prorock 60's front and rear and the r&p's on them are much bigger.
I have axle envy!
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