5.38 vs 5.13
I did the re-gear thing (5.38), replaced the ball joints and beefed up the front axle housing all at once. I used Evo sleeves, gussets and CA skids then added RSE exo sleeves. I replaced the axles shafts (front and rear) with Ten Factory units. Pulling the axle housing made this job a whole lot easier. I also put Riddler diff covers and a Benchmark oil pan on while we were under there. It took me awhile to get it all together as I looked around for deals. The labor was free (well, there was some beer barter involved) as my neighbor and I did the work. I have about $1,700 in the parts.
I run 35's (mounted, measure 34.75") and will be going to 37's next year. The city and highway performance is greatly improved with better acceleration and far less down shifting at speed. My mileage went way down with stock gearing and 35's, but now it's back to close to stock -- if not better (based on periodic actual calculations). Off-road, the gearing is almost too low with a 4:1 transfer case ratio. But I just had to get used to pulling a few (hundred) extra RPMs on the trail. Gets over the rocks plenty fast, though. [Atlas 4 perhaps . . . hmmm.]
I could have gone with PR44's, but I would still have upgraded the axle shafts, diff covers, oil pan and ball joints. All considered, this was the cheap way to go. When I eventually upgrade the axles (first time I puke a pinion), it will be to 60's.
5.13's to 5.38s? Not sure it would be worth the $$$. But then again, my wife doesn't see the value in any of the mods I do either.
I run 35's (mounted, measure 34.75") and will be going to 37's next year. The city and highway performance is greatly improved with better acceleration and far less down shifting at speed. My mileage went way down with stock gearing and 35's, but now it's back to close to stock -- if not better (based on periodic actual calculations). Off-road, the gearing is almost too low with a 4:1 transfer case ratio. But I just had to get used to pulling a few (hundred) extra RPMs on the trail. Gets over the rocks plenty fast, though. [Atlas 4 perhaps . . . hmmm.]
I could have gone with PR44's, but I would still have upgraded the axle shafts, diff covers, oil pan and ball joints. All considered, this was the cheap way to go. When I eventually upgrade the axles (first time I puke a pinion), it will be to 60's.
5.13's to 5.38s? Not sure it would be worth the $$$. But then again, my wife doesn't see the value in any of the mods I do either.
Last edited by Dead_Nuts; Oct 19, 2011 at 06:58 AM. Reason: blacklisted manufacturer.
Finally got the 5.38s in. They are WAAAAAY better than the 5.13s. I can now drive down the highway without the jeep down shifting on every small hill. It has a lot more grunt off the line too.
hi all sorry in advance.i read the chart i have an 08 jku x auto 373 with 44rear and factory e locker and e disco the front is a d30.my tires are 33"toyo mt.the chart tell me in the green 488 gears@2401 rpm or 513 gears@2524 rpm.what gear wood be better for off road
Originally Posted by gunbo75
hi all sorry in advance.i read the chart i have an 08 jku x auto 373 with 44rear and factory e locker and e disco the front is a d30.my tires are 33"toyo mt.the chart tell me in the green 488 gears@2401 rpm or 513 gears@2524 rpm.what gear wood be better for off road

Highway ot in town mainly?
If you have a winch or want one, this all ads weight and would lead me to recommend the 5.13s.
In town mechanical advantage of the lower (numerically higher) gears should help out your gas mileage.
Hands down 5.13 is better off road. Better crawl ratio!



