On the fence on doing a 4" OME lift as I am worried about height.

I have a HD OME 2" and got about 3"s out of it.

Front tires will lock up when disconnected and I have a 3" bumpstop on them.

They are fine not disconnected.

If you made this swap to the 4", how much of a lift difference did you end up with?

Thanks,

 

You could always just add a spacer on top of the coil or if you want to really dial it in you could run the JKS ACOS. I ran the ACOS with the OME HD coils for a while but was too much lift for me. Flat fenders would be a good direction to go in as well and should give you enough up travel to run 37's with just 1" extended bump stops.

Just adding more lift height will not solve your tire clearance issue as the tire will still be able to travel up without added bump stops. What size shocks are you running. Have any photos of the supsension set up with the shocks and bumpstops?

 

I already run flat fenders and 3" bump stops, as I said. So lift will help.

They are fine connected, but way to much flex from the OME disco'ed.

Not looking to add spacers or ACOS as I want to keep the ride quality from OME.

Thanks,

 

I had an 08 JKU with the same setup. Decided to go with the 4" kit from the 2" OME. It gave me 4" of lift - but the ride was much softer. Also I ended up adding in adj control arms and steering kit to get rid of some of the sloppiness when riding. It was frustrating because i was expecting some additional height and the same firmness in the handling.

 

IF your tires are hitting on the up travel longer coils or more lift will not stop them from doing it as there is nothing to prevent wheel moving up unless the coils become completely collapsed. Only longer bump stops will keep the tires out of the fenders. Flat fenders and 3" of bumpstop should not be an issue. Something else is a miss here since you should have plenty of clearance for up travel.

 

Are you against using a body lift? I think many people with 37s use one. You can use brackets to move your rear bumper up to hide the gap. That will give you more clearance.

 

If I put the bumpstops at 4", they don't hit the fenders, but they bottom out on the slightest bump as I only have about 1-1.5" between bumpstop and the rubber bumper.

So, the only way I see to get more travel and not hit the fenders is more lift.

I don't really want more lift, but don't see how I can do anything else.

And a body lift is more lift.

 

Okay, I sat and thought about what you are saying here and agree.

Now the problem is, why?

When connected the tires don't travel up as much in the fenders as they do when they are disconnected.

Going to have to put it in a ditch and crawl under there and see for myself.

You are correct, something is a miss here and I should have known that.

Thanks,

 

It would be due to the axle rotating, as you are able to droop more when disconnected the other side that is being stuffed is moving up and in towards the body more. You can think of it like an airplane propeller as it rotates. As you run longer travel shocks it is important to make sure you account for this rotation and not only have straight up clearance but have the wheels pushed out with a net of 3.25" wheel back spacing so the tires will not make contact with the inner side of the fenders.

You track bar will also contribute to this axle shift towarards the body. IF you are running a lot of actual lift (2.5"+) your track bar is not going to be horizontal. The flatter your track bar and drag link are the less axle shift side to side you will see due to the arc the track bar travels in.

The location of your bump stops along the axle will also have an affect on the axle rotation as it become the fulcrum point of where the rotation will occur.

These things can be measured with some pretty easy calulations and will seem to be pretty small but when you add them up and things are flexing to the max they will really show the difference between a properly set up lift and most of the lifts out there.

These parts of suspension are kinda hard to commuicate over written text for me and become much clearer when you can see photos or jack up your jeep and go thru the total articulation of the suspension.

I hope I was able to help.

 

Okay, I can see a little movement in each of the suspension components and it looks like the increase in travel is amplified by all of these small movements and the arch of the axle.

I can stop the tire with a 4" bumpstop, but driving down the road the Jeep hits the stops on just about any bump.

I don't disco very often with the type of off=highway driving I do, so will leave them connected and use the 3" stops as it rides great.

Well, great compared to the CJ's I usually drive over the years...... LOL

Thanks for the help Dirtman.