Adam's drive shaft, which one and why?
 

My next mod is going to be replacing my front Drive Shaft. Already decided Adam's DS is likely going to be the brand I'll go with unless someone can point out a better value option.

My Axles Dana 30 front, Dana 44 non rubi rear.

So I've been shopping around and have some confusion I could use some assistance on.

For the front they have a 1310 with or without Yoke which connects to the front Pinion side.
Q1: If I purchase a 1310 without the Yoke, can I purchase a Yoke separately?
Q2: What advantages/disadvantages does the front Yoke provide me?

I've been tossing around the idea of getting the 1350, not because I need it, but more so to be future proof if I get a front HD axle upgrade and/or do an LS engine swap, the additional strength of the 1350 might be best.
Q3: Would the 1350 be a drop in replacement, to be able to connect up to my front Dana 30 axle or are there additional things I will need?
Q4: This might be related to Q3, but I noticed there is a 1350 Rubicon, and non Rubicon. What are the differences? T-case side and/or Axle side?
Q5: I didn't see a with or without front pinion Yoke option for the 1350, why not?

Unless you need a new driveshaft or need the clearance there is no reason or advantage to swapping driveshafts. You can run a factory flag or yoke it is just personal preference. Yoke is less bolts and quicker fix to remove and replace, flange is stronger. 1350 is a waste and not going to future proof because an engine swap or bigger axle is going to need a different length and will likely be worn out before you do it anyway. Aftermarket shafts are big on maintenance, not like the factory shafts. They like don't have a 1350 flange adapter to the factory flange.

The main reason I'm looking at a DS replacement is because I've got some creaking going on in the front when I put it in 4WD and then go into any off camber scenarios, which I suspect are the front U-Joints of the OEM DS. My thought was that an aftermarket DS may provide me better angles to save myself from regularly having to replace those U-joints and since the DS will come with new U-Joints, I kill 2 birds with 1 stone.

The cheap way out would be to just replace the U-Joints and see if the creaking sound goes away.

I'd get a 1310, solid u-joint, bolted right up to the factory flange and call it a day. If factory DS suits your needs, maybe that is the way to go though. I just think if you offroad at all, the money is better spent on an aftermarket shaft.

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/market/346405

That was just listed. might be worth seeing what kinda deal you could get on the shaft depending on yall's locations there in Michigan.

Thanks for the heads up. That listing looks like it is in MA and asking $500.

Can find one on ebay for $400 new and was the reason I was asking if I could get the yoke separate or not, but it sounds like getting without the yoke is likely better for my needs anyways.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ADAMS-DRIVE...QAAOSw1ZBUtwHO

Maine, Michigan....meh, all the same. LOL. Sorry, saw it and I guess I had Michigan on my mind. I'm bolted right to the factory flange up front and have no issues at all.

That ebay link is no better pricing than Northridge4x4 on the shaft. For $15 more you get solid joint if it matters to you.

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/f...lts-and-flange

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/f...-cv-driveshaft

JKFORUM or SHARKTANK discount codes take 10% off.

I dont have much to add to the technical questions, but I will say I'm impressed with Adams customer service. They stand behind their warranty. My wife broke her rear 1350 on Metal Masher. I was able to get spotty connection and contact Adams throughout the day. They sent a new drive shaft to Moab, next day. Really impressed with them.

So I'll ask the obvious questions (forgive me). So the front DS turns regardless of being in 4WD or not. Do you get the sound when in 2WD and off camber? I'm also not seeing how off camber would, specifically, be when this should occur, I would think it would occur if the front is at an extreme angle (or occur all the time). Have you removed the front DS and then went through an off camber spot to see if the sound is still present? Have you removed the front DS and inspected that front u-joint for damage and/or range of motion?

Thanks for your help jedg, this one has been kind of a mystery to me and am mostly going on someone else's similar experience and fix.

My current repro steps is that only when I put it in 4WD and then as I start climbing up a small hill, it will make a creaking sound. If I do the same thing, but in 2WD then the creaking sound is not present. Also, after I get to the crest of that small hill while in 4WD, and go over the crest and 1st start the descent downward, I hear the creaking sound as well. Essentially, every time I hear the sound, it is tied to being in 4WD where doing the exact same maneuvers in 2WD the sound is not present.

Here's a couple discussions I've had so far in trying to figure it out.
Starting from my Post #2
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...eshaft-346083/

Then I started this discussion to try and narrow it down previously.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...r-lift-343000/

I'm currently planning a family trip to Silver Lake Sand dunes, the week of July 16. I'm trying to get this fixed before then, so I don't find out the hard way of what is really going on and have the ghost give itself up and spoil the week.