Running proper axle gearing is more important then just saying a certain joint for a specific size tire. Improper gearing puts a lot more stress on the entire driveline including the driveshaft. Properly set up 1310's are more then enough for a stock powertrain JK even with 40" tires.

 

This.

Ask yourself what you want your strongest parts to be and/or your weakest link. If I break my 1310 front driveshaft I can get home with little problem. But if I grenade my ring gear, that's a major problem. I'd pick a driveshaft break all day long. I did go ahead had buy some extra 1310 u joints just to have on hand because that's an easy repair to save the driveshaft and be able to keep wheeling.

 

Recently visited Adam's shop in Vegas. James, the owner, was helping with a leaking tcase, possibly from one of their yoke's not fitting. Have spoken to him in the past and he has delivered high quality service.

I have a 1310 f & 1350 rear.

1310 for care on the smaller front PR44 R&P and more articulation deliverance.

The 1350 is on a PR60 and takes a bigger beating. But so can the bigger R&P. It does put out far more in the rear those put out more than the front considering I put a lot of hwy miles on it.

If you have a rubi 1310 should be good. Like some mentioned its better to break the ds than the r&p. Plus, Adam's will replace it of you break it due to torque. I dont doubt it one bit, as long as you keep it well lubed.

Adam's even took the front ds off to cut it after I changed the geometry by installing new axels. Charged only for shipping.

1310s is enough if you're running 37s or smaller and not hitting it hard on the trail. Make sure your angles are good though. My rear is too high in the rear, James explained that could lead to pinion seal issues in the future.

 

I'll add this. Not every 1310 and 1350 is created equal. The 1350s I have can run a steeper angle than a 1310 (well, the rear is a 1350/1410 hybrid). I'd also suggest people look outside of the overpriced JK world. You can pick up a custom set of 1350s from Carolina Driveline for around the same price as 1310s from Adams. I had Adams my first go around. Nothing wrong with them, but definitely happier with Carolina shafts.

I also don't subscribe to the whole "built in fuse" stuff. I had a 1310 front shaft and broke a D44 ring gear. Too many variables and different forces at play. If there were a likely fuse up front, it would be axle shaft u-joints.

 

Thanks that's what I figured. I'm geared at 4.88 in flat south west Florida

 

I will check them out if they ship. The overpriced jk world is a banking account's worst nightmare!

 

My advice, call up James. Dont order a 1350 shaft from quadratec. I paid less than $500 for my 1350, and after telling James exactly what I needed, he had it shipped out to me. Less than 48 hours from calling to installed.

I cant even figure out how that works but I'm ok with it!

I have a 1310 tom woods front shaft, I carry spare ujoints, and plan on swapping in a 1410 yoke and slip yoke after it breaks. I still have not managed to break it.

 

Most of the "overpriced JK world" comes from retailer markup. At least on a lot of parts.

A $700 driveshaft on quadratec is $500-550 from the manufacturer.

 

Just saying that Carolina was a lot better deal than direct from Adams. My experience anyway. Plus, they make shafts for anything you can imagine, which was nice since I was connecting F350 axles to a JK.

Although, my favorite t-shirt I own is the one Adams sent me. Freaking love it.

 

Adams also makes drive shafts for everything. James is very easy to deal with.