How important are adjustable CA's when doing a lift of 3-3.5" I have decided that I like the Terflex lifts and the main differences I'm seeing in their 3" kits are the inclusion of adjustable CA's but would the included longer ones in the less expensive kits work just as well in correcting caster,pinion, and wheelbase? Also is a difference between a 200 and 250 spring rate worth spending about 200 more? When I've added several hundred pounds both front and rear? And that's just armor not including people and gear as I'm a trucker so tend to load it a bit heavy when going to work the 1 time a month that I do and then I usually take it out camping for the 3-4 days I'm home and have all the camping gear in it as well. And if those spring rates aren't good what are some better ones? I eventually want to do the rubicon trail and will be running 35's

 

I think you’re asking about their fixed length arms that coming in a few of the kits. If so, fixed length longer control arms are one solution to correcting caster, but IMO, not the best. Every jeep is going to sit differently based on mods/weight. How can you ensure that the length the arms are will be perfect for your particular set up? You can’t. Also, it’s easier to get by with a fixed length on 2.5” lift than a 3.5” lift as the necessary adjustment is smaller. I’d rather have control arm drop brackets that offer 2-3 different mounting options even though they’d decreased ground clearance a bit. Adjustable arms are nice in the fact that you can place the axle exactly where you want it, and then rotate it do adjust the caster exactly where you want it. That said, they’re the most expensive option for correcting caster.

If you do decide to go with adjustable arms, you might look around and compare the different joints the different manufactures use. Keep in mind the brand of arms doesn’t HAVE to match the rest of your lift. Arms are what they are, but the style of joints will vary among some of the major manufactures. you might compare TF arms to Metalcloak and Synergy for some different joint options. Look at some of the other typical major brands as well, but they are probably closer to TF style joints.


**Keep in mind your front DS will probably be on borrowed time when lifting 3+ inches.

 

The DS both front and rear are next on my list even tho it's a brand new '18 UK Rubicon with less than 3k on it

 

The rear will last for quite a while tbh. You might consider either relocating your evap, or scooting it over a bit (like TF vid on YouTube), or you can also flip it to move the spline boot a little further away from that evap skid as well. You can obviously upgrade if you want, but it's not as imperative as the front.

The rear usually succumbs to ripped boot at the splines (from hitting on the evap skid) that will then get rusty and more difficult to compress/extend. The CV joints at each end are usually ok, unlike the front which fails at the TC side.

 

Ok, good to know so I may just hold off on the rear for now, and I've honestly never heard of metalcloak or synergy, but where I live in Oregon there are few off road built wranglers and most people just put cheap lifts on pickups and then DD those, so it may be a location thing as to why I don't know them.

 

Both are very big names. Synergy uses a DDM bushing, and Metalcloak uses their Duroflex bushing. You can check them out and decide if you buy-in to the logic of using something like that instead of a johnny joint. You may or may not, but always good to know your options, specially since control arms are a significant cost (if you go that route).