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Adjustable Control arms

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Old Dec 26, 2012 | 06:42 AM
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Default Adjustable Control arms

I have been searching for awhile and see different opinions on adjustable control arms. What I want to know is do I need the uppers or lowers? I have a 2013 jku with Teraflex 2.5 coil lift, steering stabilizer, adjustable front track bar. 18s with 33s. It is drifting to the right when I let the wheel go and steering seems a little loose not much though. Which control arms do I need to make it align right an stop drifting to the right?
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Old Dec 26, 2012 | 07:22 AM
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You shouldn't need control arms. I have the same lift on for 5 months with 37's. Did u loosen up the control arms before u installed the lift then after you were finished with the lift and putting the wheels back on, did u tighten and torque the control arm bolts
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Old Dec 26, 2012 | 08:35 AM
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Shop installed the lift. So not sure if they did or not. Should I loosen the control arm bolts and re tighten them with jeep on the ground? An same for track bar?
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Old Dec 26, 2012 | 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by aftermath
Shop installed the lift. So not sure if they did or not. Should I loosen the control arm bolts and re tighten them with jeep on the ground? An same for track bar?
Loosen the control arm bolts, shake the jeep around pushing it side to side in the rear and the front then re tighten the bolts and take it for a spin. Is your front axle centered? If not center it and make sure the tb bolts are torqued to 120 ft/lbs
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Old Dec 26, 2012 | 09:08 AM
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Ill try that this weekend. It doesn't jerk to the right when you hit the breaks just when you let go of the wheel it drifts to the right as soon as you let it go. Do you think this could be the shop didnt do the alignment right? They took it to another place to get alignment done. I know it should drift to the right a little but not that bad.
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Old Dec 26, 2012 | 09:34 AM
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Everyone will have an opinion on this. It's often times a matter of personal taste, driving habits, etc. Mine was flighty and I could deal with it. I didn't want my wife or 18 year old driving it because I felt it may pull them off the road when they hit a dip or had a sudden drop. I added Rock Krawler Lower Adjustable Control Arms and Trac Bar to mine and it removed the 'flightyness' from my ride. Definitely try loosening and tightening everything as recommended above. If your good with it there is nothing to do... if you don't like it, you have options.
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Old Dec 26, 2012 | 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by aftermath
I have been searching for awhile and see different opinions on adjustable control arms. What I want to know is do I need the uppers or lowers? I have a 2013 jku with Teraflex 2.5 coil lift, steering stabilizer, adjustable front track bar. 18s with 33s. It is drifting to the right when I let the wheel go and steering seems a little loose not much though. Which control arms do I need to make it align right an stop drifting to the right?
What tires do you have? When I had duratracs my jeep stayed perfectly straight. With toyo mt's it pulls to the right.
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Old Dec 26, 2012 | 11:04 AM
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I have toyo open country mt
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Old Dec 26, 2012 | 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by aftermath
I have toyo open country mt
I've heard from other people with toyo's that they pull to the right as well. Apparently nitto trail grapplers pull left. It's really no big deal just don't take your hand off the wheel.
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Old Dec 26, 2012 | 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by scooby snacks
Everyone will have an opinion on this. It's often times a matter of personal taste, driving habits, etc. Mine was flighty and I could deal with it. I didn't want my wife or 18 year old driving it because I felt it may pull them off the road when they hit a dip or had a sudden drop. I added Rock Krawler Lower Adjustable Control Arms and Trac Bar to mine and it removed the 'flightyness' from my ride. Definitely try loosening and tightening everything as recommended above. If your good with it there is nothing to do... if you don't like it, you have options.
This.

I tell this to anyone who calls and chats with me on the phone regarding a lift. If you're going with a budget lift without all the bells and whistles then you may be happy with it. Then again, you may not.

There are manufacturing differences in regards to tolerances between every vehicle. Go to the dealer lot and have two identical Jeeps side by side. Take them home, do the exact same customizations and the ride may be different between the two. It just happens. What works for Joe with 2.5" of lift is going to suck for Bob with the exact same kit.

Tires can have something to do with it, stabilizer push (dual is better), arm lengths, trackbar, alignment, tires, etc etc etc. When you go messing with the stock suspension of a vehicle, the geometry of said suspension changes.

For guys on a budget, getting some springs and basic stuff to lift is fine and they adjust their driving style accordingly. For those that want the vehicle to handle the best that it can with a lift, then you HAVE to fine tune it. This means adjustable uppers and lowers, trackbars, steering etc.

The suspension manufacturers do the best that they can on kits with non-adjustable arms to make things good for the majority of those that use them, but there's always that other minority that are going to take the extra steps to get things dialed in.

Regarding the suggestion of the tires being the culprit, I know certain brands have reputations for radial pull. Read up on conicity.

This comes courtesy TireRack and is the best way I've found to figure out if this is the problem.

Step 1
Action to be Taken
Rotate the two front tires from side-to-side. Directional tires can be moved from side-to-side for testing purposes. The short time that they are on the vehicle backwards will not harm the tire.
Results

1. If the vehicle pulls in the opposite direction, the defective tire is one of the front tires. (GO TO STEP 2)
2. If the vehicle pulls in the same direction the problem is either with one of the rear tires or is not a tire-related problem. (GO TO STEP 3)

Step 2
Action to be Taken
Rotate the front tire on the side of the car that is in the direction of the pull, to the rear of the car.
Results

1. If the pull no longer exists or diminishes greatly, the tire that was moved to the rear of the car is the defective tire.
2. If the pulling does not change, the defective tire is isolated to the front tire that was not moved in Step 2.

Step 3
Action to be Taken
Rotate the two rear tires from side to side.
Results

1. If the vehicle pulls in the opposite direction, the defective tire is one of the rear tires. (GO TO STEP 4)
2. If the pulling tire does not change, the problem is not tire related. The car should be checked for possible misalignment or suspension wear.

Step 4
Action to be Taken
Rotate the rear tire on the side of the car that is in the direction of the pull to the front of the car.
Results

1. If the vehicle pull becomes more severe, the defective tire is isolated to the tire that was rotated to the front of the car.
2. If the pulling does not change, the defective tire is isolated to the rear tire that was not rotated.
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