Originally Posted by matt852
(Post 4239893)
is it lowers for both for the wheelbase I heard the rear uppers were for wheel base?
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Originally Posted by kjeeper10
(Post 4239944)
Who you calling a loser? Lol Correct, decide and set your wheelbase with lowers. I prefer to install the lowers, ensure axles are parallel and square, then hold pinion angle where you want it and adjust the uppers to the mount locations. Torque before dropping the jack. Front you can do easily with the tires on the ground. Rear will need to be on stands with tires removed to gain access to the uppers. The lowers locate the axles so the settings of each arm are more important. Uppers lengths dont matter as much, setting to the mounts so all 4 bolts slide in/out ensures theres no binding or preload.
Also, are you suggesting the control arm bolts be torqued while still up on the jack? Don't people always preach to leave them loose, drop the jack, shake the jeep a bit, and then torque- in order to avoid binding/preload on the bushings? |
Originally Posted by Chuck-The-Ripper
(Post 4240004)
I was so confused until I re-read my previous reply. I meant to say *lowers*, lol. Also, are you suggesting the control arm bolts be torqued while still up on the jack? Don't people always preach to leave them loose, drop the jack, shake the jeep a bit, and then torque- in order to avoid binding/preload on the bushings?
Also tightening at ride height mainly refers to the stock bushings or any arm with bonded rubber joints. Heims, Spherical joints wont matter as much as far as binding because the ball spins. |
After adjusting my fronts I got 4.90 driver camber and 4.77 on my passenger. On the center of the road of a 3 lane drives straight.
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Originally Posted by matt852
(Post 4240481)
After adjusting my fronts I got 4.90 driver CASTER and 4.77 on my passenger. On the center of the road of a 3 lane drives straight.
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Originally Posted by karls10jk
(Post 4240489)
If you had 4-5* of camber then you'd have some funny wearing tires :thumbsup:
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Originally Posted by kjeeper10
(Post 4239505)
Crows foot and breaker bar
I didn't have a Crows foot but I found a very similar method that worked for me. Bench vise + C-Clamp :thumbsup: Then tightened down with a pipe wrench with a long pipe from my floor jack. https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0B9VL...FBUeGp4aFFSLVU |
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Rednroll
(Post 4300700)
I figured I resurrect an old thread due to having to tighten my LCA jam nuts. I didn't have a Crows foot but I found a very similar method that worked for me. Bench vise + C-Clamp :thumbsup: Then tightened down with a pipe wrench with a long pipe from my floor jack.
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Metal cloak has these nice crows foot wrenches in 1 1/2" and 1 7/8" . We have them in the shop I help at and they are handy and the price is pretty good. They allow you to get into tight spaces where you might not be able to get a big wrench into.
Crow's Foot 1 1/2" Duroflex Jam Nut Wrench |
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