I've been researching several different lift kit options and was wondering what the opinion is on using adjustable control arms versus relocation brackets?

Lift kits I've been looking at include BDS, Jspec, Synergy and Teraflex. the goal is to run 35x12.5x17 on a JKU Rubicon used primarily as a daily driver and weekend trail runner.

Also at what lift height is a new drive shaft required?

thanks!!

 

Either correct caster angle up front. It's ultimately your choice. Some don't like the drop brackets because of the clearance loss.
I like the new JKS stuff but I have no experience with it. Synergy is one of my favorite manufacturers. You will be happy with either imo.
What year is your jeep?

 

It's a 2014 JKU Rubicon, White with Black Hard Top, and black fenders.

 

Drop brackets will flatten out the angle of the lower control arm. This will provide a nicer ride on sharp edged bumps. They are also designed to help get castor angle back into the axle after having lifted the rig. Trouble is they are not exact for "your" rig, but are better than no adjustment.
Drop brackets eat up ground clearance. Not much, and probably not a big deal as the control arm will act as a slider anyways.
Adjustable control arms allow you to correct axle location, castor angle, and pinion angle precisely for your rig. Typically the adjustable control arms will have joints that will allow more flex before stressing/binding, which lessens stress at the control arm mounting points. Some come with solid bushings others with rubber others yet again with a combination of solid/rubber. Each style has it's negatives and positives.

Edit to add... if you have not looked at Metal Cloak, I would suggest you do so. They have a real nifty joint that allows flex and comfort.
I too like Synergy and run a fair bit, ok, a lot of their gear, but went with Metal Cloak for control arms.

 

look at 2-2.5" with a 35" tire. Keep in mind most coils Will give more height on a lighter jeep.
I like RK's new 1.5 triple rate coils. You will net around 2 inch on a four-door.
Jadmt runs the 1.5's and TeraFlex fixed front lowers and rancho 5000x shocks. I believe he added a TeraFlex rear axle side bracket for roll center.

You won't need driveshafts at this height. You may want to look into exhaust Spacers if you disconnect and run longer shocks upfront.

 

There isn't one, it is the specific build, use, and luck. Taller is more likely than shorter. Disconnected is more likely than connected. Longer shocks, more likely than shorter. People on here have lost them on 2.5" lifts, others are doing fine with 4"+. This is something you need to be semi proactive about - crawl underneath and look as part of regular maintenance...

 

Correct, i had 20k on my rear before adding adjustable control arms. I have two spares also lol

 

A bracket will get you the caster correction that you need but you will still have factory arms which will limit your suspensions movement a little compared to an arm that is designed around much more misalignment. you also replace a factory arm with one of a stronger construction when you use an adjustable arm.

RK

 

actually 2.5" triple rate but every thing else is right. I have to say for the money it does really well. I am totally impressed with the 5000X shocks off and on road.

I initially ran AEV geo correction brackets but am much happier with the TF fixed front lowers as much better clearance and near perfect caster.

 

Er oops. Sorry bout that