Just bought the HD t-case linkage from Advance Adapters. I thought this would be a fairly easy install... but after looking at the installation instructions, honestly, I'm nervous. I've got an entire shop at my disposal and a mechanic at no charge. But he will be on the clock while he lets me use his tools, so his help will be limited. And he's a diesel mechanic, not a 4x4 mechanic. Has anyone installed one? What should i really expect?

I got this because I've developed some slop in my t-case shifter, and i know the factory linkage is weak. Recently my friends 08 sahara link broke mid-shift, and he ended up stuck for the weekend. He has a warranty. I don't. Not going to wait until mine breaks.

 

I did this install on Saturday. Was pretty straightforward. Its not really intimidating. Instructions are real clear. Look at the video on Advanced Adapters website a few times, so you can figure it out. There is also a real good writeup on this as well, here in the forum. Your getting my experience below as well as other posters info. Dont overthink this one. Its not hard. We are just pointing out the peculiarities to work around.

Thots after the install:

1. Pulling the shifter knob off was tough. I am pretty strong, but could not get the knob off by pulling straight up. I ended up taking a big crescent wrench, closing the jaws down to the exact width of the shaft, wrapping it in a rag, and putting it right under the knob, then took a hammer to the bottom of the flat part of the crescent till the knob popped off. 3 solid hits and it flew off. Wear a pair of gloves, so iff you miss once or twice, you dont smash your fingers if the hammer grazes off. Putting it back on is easy. Just snaps right back on.

2. I thought pulling the drive shaft yoke nut off would be a challenge. I used the 1 1/4 inch socket, put the transfer case in 4 hi, then used a breaker bar to onbolt the yoke nut. Was real simple. What was not so simple was how tight the driveshaft bolts were on the axle end. Those were a bear to break free as they used blue locktite on them. I was sweating like a pig trying to unbolt those. The small bolts on the transfer case side were easy. 1/4 inch drive with a 10 mm socket. Real simple. When you go to bolt back up, bolt the axle end first. Then, make sure the transfer case is in 2H or N, then you can spin the yoke a bit to line up the bolts to go back in on the transfer case. Again, 1/4 inch drive ratchet with 10mm socket.

3. Another thing that LOOKS intimidating, but really isnt is the shifter upgrade modifications. They are very easy to do. It was probably the easiest part of the whole job. Just follow the steps and go from there. I think it took me all of 10 minutes tops to tear down the shifter, and rebuild it, including drilling the 2 1/4 inch holes for the new bracket.

4. Adjusting the linkage isnt bad. You should be real close when you just set the adjusting nuts on the cable to the middle. It was real close to being perfect.

5. MAKE SURE to put the new shift lever on the right way. To make sure, I had marked it with a sharpie the night before, to make sure the correct side was facing out.

6. I retained the rubber grommet for the cable to go thru the floor. Recommended. I cut the original cable in half to ensure it didnt get damaged while trying to remove it from the old cable. Make sure to keep track of the direction it came off. I snipped about 1/2 inch off the smallest part, then put a bit of oil on it, so it slid onto the new cable easily.

7. You do NOT need to adjust the heims when you thread them on. Thread them all the way on, then back them up to where they are able to bolt onto the linkage. Then tighten the adjusting nut on the heims. Your adjustments come from the big nuts on each side of the brackets. (1 on the transmission bracket end and the other end on the new bracket you put on the shifter box.)

Remember to do something about zip tieing the cable to the tranny, to keep it away from the driveshaft. I went to the hardware store and bought a bolt: 7/16 1.25 thread, 1 1/4 inch long. Threaded it into the stud on the side of the tranny, then zip tied the cable to it.

Good luck with the install. When your done, you will see that this will be one of the better improvements you will have made to your rig. If you were local to me, I would help you out.....

Not sure the model year differences. I have a 2012 JK 2 door rubi auto. I took my time working thru this. Took me about 3-4 hours to get thru it.

 

I installed one of These kits last summer. It was fairly easy, just a bunch of little steps to follow, nothing too serious. I posted some pics of the install process in a previous thread.

 

It says the drive shaft doesnt need to be dropped on non rubicon models. Ive got the unlimited X, so i guess i get to skip this step.

 

Well, that will save u a lot of time and effort then. Good luck with the install . Post up when your done. Again, once u get this adjusted, your going to love this upgrade.

 

So does this really transmit more noise into the cabin due to the hard mounts?

 

I didn't notice any difference. Since I retained the stock grommet, I can't see how it differs.

 

I used the original grommet and still get an annoying significant "vibration" type noise inside the vehicle....any suggestions as what to look at???? thanks