Hello folks,

Im looking for some input. Im currently in process of replacing my front d30 with d44 and going to 513s and air lockers. Its been a great and pricey journey, I got to weld my truss and install a twin ARB -only thing I've outsourced was gear install.

Now im getting ready to put the axles in and want to make sure I dial in my steering. I was thinking with going with metalcloak 1ton steering kit since i got their lift and im thinking about going to 3.5 lift from my 3.5, i have the adjustable control arms so new coils should get me there.

My questions‐ if I get the high steering knuckles (advice on where to source cheap effective ones would be appreciated, currently teraflex is winning) would i need a drag link flip kit? Im new to steering so would appreciate any input.

Lastly im debating between 38x13.5x17 milestars and 37x12.5 mickeys. Would love thoughts. Im in PNW if that matters so its slick most of the year.

Any other thoughts or advice would be welcome.

Pic of my front axle because why not: feel free to judge me on my questionable welding and painting skills. It will hold up though

 

regarding tires.....I'd stick with 12.5 wide tires. My last set I got sucked into 37x13.5 due to looks and I already have a heavy wheel (ATX Chamber Pro II beadlocks). I REALLY wish I'd just stuck with the 12.5 options. Any extra mass that you have to get rolling and keep rolling makes a difference. I personally would not choose the Milestars. I think a lot of folks choose them for the attractive price and to be able to say they have 38s. I'd pick any quality name brand over them, but tires are subjective.

I think the MC tie rod and DL are great options. I have their DL and it's paired with a Fusion4x4 2.5-ton tie rod, which is pretty redonk but not necessary for most....or really even myself.

I believe most high steer knuckles are placing the DL where you don't need to flip, but regardless, if you are buying an aftermarket DL you are likely buying one that can be mounted both orientations....unless you're angling to keep the factory DL paired with a high steer knuckle.

 

Which Mickey's are you considering? I recently went with the Baja Boss AT. They are 3-peak rated "hybrid" All Terrain which might be a good fit in the PNW. The outside lugs are very aggressive and I'm very impressed with their performance so far.

 

Appreciate the advice. everyone I talked to unanimously said Mickeys so I did pick them up. 37/12.5/17 Baja Boss MT. They look pretty metal in person.. im at 2.5in lift and with flat fenders I think I will be able to stay at 2.5 though i will be adding 1in front coil spacers regardless to fix the front sag (I think the rear spring correction perches effectively put my rear end closer to 3.5 anyway.

thinking ill stay at stock height steering for now as the high steer knuckles are a bit crazy priced( I will pick up the 1 ton steering from MC tho). Guess ill just be careful with the rocks until i can do high steer. Still have to get belly skid plates until i think about crushers anyway.

Any advice on rear axle mounts? I saw Barnes 4wd has a reinforced kit. Im thinking i should replace them as ill be welding the truss on anyway

 

I picked up the 37 MT Baja Boss. They are pretty gnarly and seem to behave on the road well enough. Though im glad that i am ready to do the axle because driving on 37s with stock gears and d30 has been an interesting experience. I'm not doing any wheeling until i do the swap though. A part of me is kind of tempted to see how this setup would do as ive been able to get away with a lot on 35s and 373s but I suppose I should probably avoid putting my friends through having to drag me out to pavement.

 

Going from 2.5 lift to 3.5 lift, you might experienced flighty steering. If that’s the case, it is often recommended to raised the track bar mount on the axle side. Since you want the track bar and drag link as parallel as possible, this is where the flipped drag link helps. This will help get your steering back close to factory as possible. All the hi-steer knuckles do is to bring your tie rod up from its lowest point. This help minimizing bashing your tie rod on rocks. If you’re not rock crawling, you don’t need it. I haven’t seen anyone bending or breaking factory knuckles.

 

I am rock crawling. I'll need the clearance. But I should be able to hold off. Plenty of fun to be had while I dial things in with the new axles in. Thanks for the flip link info.