AEV 2.5" to 3.5"
Greetings JKF,
I've been enjoying my new to me 2017 JKU and have it nearly the way I want it. Yeah right... who am I trying to kid. When I first came to JKF the Jeep featured a AEV 2.5 Lift with control arm drops. However, per my intro thread... the dealer for one reason or another installed 2.5" Rubicon Express coils in the front removing the AEV coils as bad ?. The rear remained AEV, although they were in rough visual shape so I pulled them and added a matching set of 2.5" Rubicon Express to compliment the front. I noticed a slight decrease in height out back but nothing too dramatic and performance hindering. Jeep rides well and I enjoy every minute of driving it. I would however be a lot happier if the coils were once again AEV. I located a place that can sell me just a set of AEV coils so that is a plus. I got to thinking though... with the control arm drop brackets already installed, could I easily just toss in some 3.5" AEV coils instead and get some added height? What other parts would I be needing by going up to the 3.5? My recently installed FOX 2.0's are rated up to 3.5 so I am good there.
Just want to know if this can be a simple coil swap, fresh alignment and be good. Or if venturing into the 3.5" lift realm opens the door for more needs. I feel like I read that it does... steering challenges begin.
As always thanks in advance,
JKU
I've been enjoying my new to me 2017 JKU and have it nearly the way I want it. Yeah right... who am I trying to kid. When I first came to JKF the Jeep featured a AEV 2.5 Lift with control arm drops. However, per my intro thread... the dealer for one reason or another installed 2.5" Rubicon Express coils in the front removing the AEV coils as bad ?. The rear remained AEV, although they were in rough visual shape so I pulled them and added a matching set of 2.5" Rubicon Express to compliment the front. I noticed a slight decrease in height out back but nothing too dramatic and performance hindering. Jeep rides well and I enjoy every minute of driving it. I would however be a lot happier if the coils were once again AEV. I located a place that can sell me just a set of AEV coils so that is a plus. I got to thinking though... with the control arm drop brackets already installed, could I easily just toss in some 3.5" AEV coils instead and get some added height? What other parts would I be needing by going up to the 3.5? My recently installed FOX 2.0's are rated up to 3.5 so I am good there.
Just want to know if this can be a simple coil swap, fresh alignment and be good. Or if venturing into the 3.5" lift realm opens the door for more needs. I feel like I read that it does... steering challenges begin.
As always thanks in advance,
JKU
To do a 3.5” properly you really need to have all adjustable control arms and adjustable track bars. Your axle will be in a awkward position otherwise. And yes, you may need to dabble into the steering as well with a high steer setup. Some people get by without the high steer but I wouldn’t suggest it.
It's a 'wanted vs needed' kind of thing, lots of personal opinion involved. Some considerations:
With additional height, both axles will shift further to opposite sides. If that bothers you, adjustable trackbars will recenter, assuming you have them.
Up front, the trackbar and draglink will be running at steeper angles. 3.5" is generally where people consider running a draglink flip / high steer to flatten those angles while keeping the bars parallel to each other. Do you have an opinion on whether you will want to do this?
The steering wheel will rotate. (loosen the draglink and twist the turnbuckle to straighten)
Caster will go down. You indicate that your brackets have a setting for the 3.5" lift height, so you're good to go there.
Is this why you are paying for the alignment, just to have the shop swap holes on the brackets? Guessing you saw this in a previous thread, but just to restate it - from the factory, adjusting Toe and centering the steering wheel is all an alignment is going to do for you. Caster and Camber can't be adjusted. (Adding another inch won't change the Toe, and assuming you swap bracket holes, an alignment won't do anything for you...)
Brakelines will be stretched a bit tighter, so be sure to flex it and double check.
Both driveshafts will be running at steeper angles. You should be crawling underneath to check the boots as part of normal maintenance, maybe look a bit more often as you go taller.
With additional height, both axles will shift further to opposite sides. If that bothers you, adjustable trackbars will recenter, assuming you have them.
Up front, the trackbar and draglink will be running at steeper angles. 3.5" is generally where people consider running a draglink flip / high steer to flatten those angles while keeping the bars parallel to each other. Do you have an opinion on whether you will want to do this?
The steering wheel will rotate. (loosen the draglink and twist the turnbuckle to straighten)
Caster will go down. You indicate that your brackets have a setting for the 3.5" lift height, so you're good to go there.
Is this why you are paying for the alignment, just to have the shop swap holes on the brackets? Guessing you saw this in a previous thread, but just to restate it - from the factory, adjusting Toe and centering the steering wheel is all an alignment is going to do for you. Caster and Camber can't be adjusted. (Adding another inch won't change the Toe, and assuming you swap bracket holes, an alignment won't do anything for you...)
Brakelines will be stretched a bit tighter, so be sure to flex it and double check.
Both driveshafts will be running at steeper angles. You should be crawling underneath to check the boots as part of normal maintenance, maybe look a bit more often as you go taller.
You can do that if you want. The front DS CV joint will likely not last long due to the angle, and you may need exhaust spacers or to re-route the exhaust crossover behind the crossmember. (your DS will get to know your exhaust a bit more running at a steeper angle). Your caster will be limited by the additional mounting options the brackets have, but that is what it is. If you don't have adjustable rear arms, the rear tires will creep a bit more towards the front of that wheel well. That is more aesthetics than anything. You would also be entering the range to do a high steer kit (drag link flip) which would require a new DL and a raised TB bracket. Keep in mind many springs will net more than the stated value, so just cuz a shock says "for 3.5" lift" doesn't mean it will be perfect, but it will work fine. Most people won't take the time to cycle their suspensions and look at actual extended and collapsed shock lengths, and you already have new shocks. If you were trying to eek out every bit of articulation you can it could matter more.
I'd stay at 2.5" myself unless you plan to go to a larger tire. Higher COG isn't better, lift for the tire, not for looks.
We'll still be here for ya either way.
I'd stay at 2.5" myself unless you plan to go to a larger tire. Higher COG isn't better, lift for the tire, not for looks.
We'll still be here for ya either way.
you guys are awesome!
Sounds like jumping over to 3.5 will put me in a realm of way more added parts then are needed at the time and for what I use the Jeep for. It currently has great road manners so why change it right!
I'll stick to 2.5 and enjoy.
Thank you all very much,
Sounds like jumping over to 3.5 will put me in a realm of way more added parts then are needed at the time and for what I use the Jeep for. It currently has great road manners so why change it right!
I'll stick to 2.5 and enjoy.
Thank you all very much,
Hey Kevin,
3.5 and 37's sound good but maybe for a different Jeep? I use my Jeep.... oh lets say 65% of the year as my work rig. Drive to and from and hundreds of miles in the field. Traded a 2017 Ford Explorer on this JKU... which in hindsight was a great work rig. Comfy to drive, room for the whole family and all around fit my needs for what it was. I could never get around the fact that FORD advertised these as 4wd but they were really All Wheel Drive with modes. I come from the days of having to get out and spin the locking hubs to get the Diff to lock and then putting a transfer case into the 4wd. To me that's a a 4wd. Guess I am old school. My entire life I've only ever bought Ford. Have a paid for 2011 Super Duty 4x4, paid for 2007 Mustang California Special and now the Jeep. First time I ventured away from FORD. I choose Jeep because it fit my idea of what a 4x4 was and should be. Honestly, given my 4x4 history, I am shocked it took this long to get one. You either love or hate the solid axle. I happen to love it!
Since getting the JKU I've already started looking for my 2nd. One that I can do the 3.5 and 37's too. Most likely a Rubicon so I can have the front and rear D-44s. This 75th is well equipped for a Sahara and I wouldn't give it up for anything. Having the rear locking axle was a complete surprise and bonus. Although I do desire deeper gears... the 3.73's are great but I come from 5.13s.
Anyhow, I could go on for days.
Cheers all
Nemi
3.5 and 37's sound good but maybe for a different Jeep? I use my Jeep.... oh lets say 65% of the year as my work rig. Drive to and from and hundreds of miles in the field. Traded a 2017 Ford Explorer on this JKU... which in hindsight was a great work rig. Comfy to drive, room for the whole family and all around fit my needs for what it was. I could never get around the fact that FORD advertised these as 4wd but they were really All Wheel Drive with modes. I come from the days of having to get out and spin the locking hubs to get the Diff to lock and then putting a transfer case into the 4wd. To me that's a a 4wd. Guess I am old school. My entire life I've only ever bought Ford. Have a paid for 2011 Super Duty 4x4, paid for 2007 Mustang California Special and now the Jeep. First time I ventured away from FORD. I choose Jeep because it fit my idea of what a 4x4 was and should be. Honestly, given my 4x4 history, I am shocked it took this long to get one. You either love or hate the solid axle. I happen to love it!
Since getting the JKU I've already started looking for my 2nd. One that I can do the 3.5 and 37's too. Most likely a Rubicon so I can have the front and rear D-44s. This 75th is well equipped for a Sahara and I wouldn't give it up for anything. Having the rear locking axle was a complete surprise and bonus. Although I do desire deeper gears... the 3.73's are great but I come from 5.13s.
Anyhow, I could go on for days.
Cheers all
Nemi








