AEV 2.5" DualSport lift, geometry correction brackets?
I have both 2.5" lift and the correction brackets, tyres are 315/70/R17.
Put the lift on one weekend and ran out of time, so ran without the brackets for a few weeks before getting chance to put the brackets on.
I thought the lift was great compared to stock, then put the brackets in and what a step change.
Much better feel and drive.
So, yes you can get away without them, but get them if you can. You won't regret it
Put the lift on one weekend and ran out of time, so ran without the brackets for a few weeks before getting chance to put the brackets on.
I thought the lift was great compared to stock, then put the brackets in and what a step change.
Much better feel and drive.
So, yes you can get away without them, but get them if you can. You won't regret it
Agreed, I have a 2.5" TF coil lift and just installed the AEV brackets on Friday. What a difference in ride and handling! Might as well do it for $100. Doesn't make sense not to for the difference, IMO.
You don't waste much time adding them later. You'll have the control arm bolts loose when you put the lift on, but that is the only time advantage. Helps to have a second person if you do it later though. That way you can leave it on the ground and just have someone push the axle so you can line the bolts up.
+1 for aev 2.5 with geo brackets
The big advantage is that you retain the stock steering and suspension arms geometry so there is no need to adjust the camber.
I never rode without the bracket so I can't tell the difference but at least I can say my jeep now run much better than stock.
The big advantage is that you retain the stock steering and suspension arms geometry so there is no need to adjust the camber.
I never rode without the bracket so I can't tell the difference but at least I can say my jeep now run much better than stock.
+1 for aev 2.5 with geo brackets
The big advantage is that you retain the stock steering and suspension arms geometry so there is no need to adjust the camber.
I never rode without the bracket so I can't tell the difference but at least I can say my jeep now run much better than stock.
The big advantage is that you retain the stock steering and suspension arms geometry so there is no need to adjust the camber.
I never rode without the bracket so I can't tell the difference but at least I can say my jeep now run much better than stock.
Seems like a short cut rather than getting adjustable LCAs in the first place. I guess they will do if the lift was for aesthetics rather than off road and the drivability was severely affected by the lift.
Choosing a lift sure is a difficult process. I've been researching the heck out of this stuff for months. I am strongly leaning towards going full bore and getting the Rock Krawler X Factor. It pretty much replaces all major suspension components. It's either that or a Max Travel with a new rear track bar. Decisions, decisions.
I've read nothing but good things about these AEV brackets, I ordered a pair last night and can't wait to put them on. I have a 2.5" BB and it just feels flighty on the freeway and I'm hoping these will correct it. Do your own research, many positive reviews. The only downside I've seen is that the lower your clearance a bit, but I think for a DD, it is well worth the $100.
I've read nothing but good things about these AEV brackets, I ordered a pair last night and can't wait to put them on. I have a 2.5" BB and it just feels flighty on the freeway and I'm hoping these will correct it. Do your own research, many positive reviews. The only downside I've seen is that the lower your clearance a bit, but I think for a DD, it is well worth the $100.
The problem I see with these brackets is that they lower the mount point of the control arm. Defeats the purpose of a lift if it is ground clearance you were after. Plus it adds another stress/break point. Seems like a short cut rather than getting adjustable LCAs in the first place. I guess they will do if the lift was for aesthetics rather than off road and the drivability was severely affected by the lift. Choosing a lift sure is a difficult process. I've been researching the heck out of this stuff for months. I am strongly leaning towards going full bore and getting the Rock Krawler X Factor. It pretty much replaces all major suspension components. It's either that or a Max Travel with a new rear track bar. Decisions, decisions.
The brackets serve a different purpose than adjustable control arms. The brackets lower the level of the control arms in order to make them more parallel with the ground. By doing this the stress received when hitting a bump is now transferred straight up as it was from the factory rather then through the arm and into the frame as it does with a lift because the angle is increased. The brackets also correct castor angle. Although they correct castor, anything after about 2.5 inches of lift will not be perfectly adjusted. This is where adjustable control arms come to play with the ability to perfectly dial those things in. Overall they can both adjust castor, but with that being said they were both designed separately in order to do two different jobs. Their proposes are often confused for this reason. To the OP, I say get them, for a 2.5 inch lift they will work perfectly. If you are a hardcore rock crawler you might find them annoying, but if you just wheel it and it's your daily driver I highly recommend them. I run them and they made a huge difference.
Incidentally, RK's control arms are angled (bent) to give better ground clearance and would also eliminate the stress point in the frame you mentioned since the bulk of the LCA is in fact more parallel with the frame.
Don't get me wrong, I am not disagreeing with you. Just clarifying what I meant.




