AEV High Steer Kit Anyone?
I got the TF kit and I LOVE it. As always very solid!
Here is some pics of JackMac4's rig w/ it. He has a 4" to put the drop brace bracket into perspective ..
Here is some pics of JackMac4's rig w/ it. He has a 4" to put the drop brace bracket into perspective ..
Last edited by Gokracer1; Jan 18, 2009 at 06:58 PM.
I know the flip drag link will be ok... I think the brace will drop down too much... IMO
They use a completely new track bar bracket that locates off the stock one, but uses u-bolts to secure it. The stock bracket does not have the stress placed on it. I think that it is the drag link that is flipped via the tapered insert, not the tie rod as some of the stores had posted.
I have yet to see an AEV kit that actually flips the tie rod. They need to remove that from the product description.
Here is the question: is your tie rod in the stock location or did they provide a flip kit as they state in the product description. According the the description they are also saying they will "flip" or raise your tie rod.
I have yet to see an AEV kit that actually flips the tie rod. They need to remove that from the product description.
I have yet to see an AEV kit that actually flips the tie rod. They need to remove that from the product description.
Here is the question: is your tie rod in the stock location or did they provide a flip kit as they state in the product description. According the the description they are also saying they will "flip" or raise your tie rod.
I have yet to see an AEV kit that actually flips the tie rod. They need to remove that from the product description.
I have yet to see an AEV kit that actually flips the tie rod. They need to remove that from the product description.
Here's the description quoted from AEV's website. If it said it was a tie rod flip it has been changed.
"Front Steering Correction optimizes steering and roll center geometry unlike other "high-steer" kits on the market for better handling. Also allows larger/relocated steering damper and relocated stabilizer end links.
Geometry-Corrected™ “high-steer” kit:
Drag link 'flip' via tapered insert and new OEM-grade draglink.
Brackets to relocate the track bar, stabilizer end links, & damper. "
Here is the question: is your tie rod in the stock location or did they provide a flip kit as they state in the product description. According the the description they are also saying they will "flip" or raise your tie rod.
I have yet to see an AEV kit that actually flips the tie rod. They need to remove that from the product description.
I have yet to see an AEV kit that actually flips the tie rod. They need to remove that from the product description.
As per the instructions, you remove the tie rod end from the bottom of the steering knuckle, drill the tapered hole out to a 7/8 inch hole, insert the tapered bushing and install the new tie rod end into the top of the steering knuckle, flipping it from the bottom of the knuckle to the top. Hope that answers your question.
It's the tie rod end of the draglink that gets installed into the adapter sleeve on top of the knuckle. The tie rod does not move.
Just to help everyone out I thought I would post step 8 directly from their instruction since there seems to be soem confusion.
Step 9: Install High-Steer Draglink. First, drill out the tapered hole in upper (draglink) arm on the
passenger knuckle to make it 7/8” diameter straight hole as shown in figure 9-1. Be sure to drill as
straight and steady as possible to avoid a loose connection! Insert the supplied taper-to-straight adapter
sleeve into the hole as shown in figure 9-2.
Next apply anti-seize compound to the threads of the new draglink and thread it into the adjuster
sleeve until the amount of thread showing is similar to the amount showing on the short side that is still
attached to the pitman arm. Now insert the tie rod end of the draglink into the adapter sleeve, but do
NOT use the original TRE nut. Instead, remove one of the front lower control arm nuts and use it on the
TRE instead. (This is necessary because the LCA nut has a larger flange that can adequately cover the
7/8” hole you drilled; The LCA bolts will be replaced with cam bolts and new nuts later.)
passenger knuckle to make it 7/8” diameter straight hole as shown in figure 9-1. Be sure to drill as
straight and steady as possible to avoid a loose connection! Insert the supplied taper-to-straight adapter
sleeve into the hole as shown in figure 9-2.
Next apply anti-seize compound to the threads of the new draglink and thread it into the adjuster
sleeve until the amount of thread showing is similar to the amount showing on the short side that is still
attached to the pitman arm. Now insert the tie rod end of the draglink into the adapter sleeve, but do
NOT use the original TRE nut. Instead, remove one of the front lower control arm nuts and use it on the
TRE instead. (This is necessary because the LCA nut has a larger flange that can adequately cover the
7/8” hole you drilled; The LCA bolts will be replaced with cam bolts and new nuts later.)
Here's the description quoted from AEV's website. If it said it was a tie rod flip it has been changed.
"Front Steering Correction optimizes steering and roll center geometry unlike other "high-steer" kits on the market for better handling. Also allows larger/relocated steering damper and relocated stabilizer end links.
Geometry-Corrected™ “high-steer” kit:
Drag link 'flip' via tapered insert and new OEM-grade draglink.
Brackets to relocate the track bar, stabilizer end links, & damper. "
"Front Steering Correction optimizes steering and roll center geometry unlike other "high-steer" kits on the market for better handling. Also allows larger/relocated steering damper and relocated stabilizer end links.
Geometry-Corrected™ “high-steer” kit:
Drag link 'flip' via tapered insert and new OEM-grade draglink.
Brackets to relocate the track bar, stabilizer end links, & damper. "








