2015 JKU OSCAR MIKE... I recently added a 3.25 rough country lift, I already had an adjustable track bar on front. I like the ride, in fact it's better overall than it was sitting stock on 35s. My issue is that it feels kinda flighty on the road and some bump steer as well. Before the lift it was really bad. I made 2 rookie mistakes I think before the lift. 1) being I never checked Caster/pinion at stock and 2) I didn't take measurements before and after the lift. It seems to ride higher than 3.25" with the same 35s at same air pressure (30 psi). If it was my daily driver if probably deal with it but it's my wife's. I don't want her to feel unconfident driving it since she totes our little girl everywhere. So I'm torn between upgrading steering components or adding adjustable control arms. If I did the control arms should I just do front lowers and rear uppers or both front? Either way I'm adding an adjustable track bar at the rear. The rear wheelbase and axle position is definitely out of line from the lift but not sure if that's affecting my situation that much. Of course I would like to do everything but don't have that kind of cash available at the moment. I'll more than likely install myself as well. Side note: it's 100% mall crawler until we pay it off in a year. At that time I'm looking at d44 front and 37s. So at some point I'll have all of this changed either way. I just need to do what's necessary at the moment to keep the wife happy. Any input would be appreciated. I've been reading post after post over the last week and I may have gotten too much conflicting info.

 

I think, first get your current alignment specs. This way we know what your current caster. The flighty feeling is likely because you have caster that is under 4 degrees. Getting your caster back to 4 degrees or more will likely produce the most improvement for you. You can do that with adjustable control arms or with control arm drop brackets (each as it's own advantages/disadvantages). As for the rear track bar, you really need to be looking at raising the roll center to match the front. This is usually done with a raised track bar bracket (on the axle side) that is roughly equivalent to the height you lifted the rig.

Recommend you read this - https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...-lifts-288269/

 

It came with a track bar drop bracket, I'm assuming that's wrong?
i think I'm just gonna bite the bullet and get all 8 control arms. The money I'll save doing the work myself should pay for the extra cost. Looking at synergy right now, since they say adjustable while installed.

***Correction, only the uppers are double adjustable***

 

Honestly, you can accomplish what you need with $100 control arm brackets, or paying a bit more to get Rancho's 1-piece design. You'd save a ton of money and you're not going to tell a huge difference with the current use. If you decide to continue building later on down the road, just sell the brackets. That is the kind of thing that holds its value. Also, you never know what the future holds......I just wouldn't put the money in to a full set of arms until you're actually going to get more function out of em than being 100% on the pavement.

 

Trackbar brackets raised from the axle are considered the better choice. But you already have that one installed, so don't worry too much about swapping right away. Up front, if you choose to correct the steering angles, a raised bracket and flipping the draglink to the top of the knuckle is considered to be much better than a drop bracket/drop pitman combo.

For the caster, some shops offer free 'checks', they just print out the before specs without actually doing anything. Worth a few calls to see if you can locate a shop. Stock caster is a bit over 4*. After a 3.25" lift, it's probably around 3*? Ish? Many like to raise that number up around 4.5-5* after a lift. A set of brackets, or a single set of control arms will do this. (either upper or lower, but front lowers are the better choice.) For the rear, you have a JKU, don't really need to worry about the pinion angle until you go higher.
But, if you just feel like throwing money at it just to throw money at it, a single set of arms at either end lets you raise/lower the pinions. The second set allows you to reposition the axle forward/backward in the wheel well. (sounds like this is what you want to do?) Just remember that when the suspension cycles, those rear tires will move on an arc 'up and back' - not straight up. So you may have more clearance than you think.