Another re-gearing ?... Bla bla bla
 

Im about to regear im gonna order the gears and the other stuff i need in order to re gear before i actually have them installed so i dont have to dish out a huge amount of money all at one time. Im ordering all the parts online so my question is. What exactly do i need to regear im going 4.56, ive read that i would need a carrier for my front diff? i have an 07 2 dr 3" lift on 35's stock dana 30 up front stock 44 in the back everything else stock thanks for the help guys... Im also looking for suggestions in what brands and where to order from.

If you currently have 3.21 gears, yes, you will want a new d30 carrier. If you currently have 3.73 or 4.10 gears, no, you will not need a new d30 carrier. If you do need a new carrier, you have a choice of another open carrier, or some type of full case locker/limited. (not a lunchbox locker, but a full case unit like a TrueTrac/Detroit/ARB/etc).

You will want master/overhaul kits. These kits are more expensive, but they include new bearings, which is probably a good thing with your 7 year old axles.

Northridge and 4WS.com are fairly popular for gearing purchases, but any of the sites sponsors would be happy to help you out if you contact them.

master in stall kits for each axle, if you have 3:21 gears you'll need new carrier for front.
You could go with another open carrier that will work with new gears or a LSD, or a selectable
Locker for carrier. Just depends on moony you want to spend..

Why are you going to 4.56 and where did you get that info to run those

At minimum you should be 4.88 , but. 5.13 is where you really want to have

The guy at north ridge4x4 when i called said i should go 4.88 with 35s just wondering what is the best answer, it seems that every other person you ask will say 4.88 or 5.13. Question is what is the right answer?

There are about a gajillion other threads on gearing. The best answer for 'your' needs is ... haven't got a clue, because we have zero info. Auto or manual? Where do you live, what kind of roads do you frequent, mostly in town or offroad, or lots of high speed freeway, very light rig, or heavy with lots of armor and gear, any plans at all of going past 35's, etc, etc, etc

You might start with the faq's at the top of this modified area. Measure your tires (measured, not mfg spec), scroll down to the rpm charts and plug some numbers in. That gives you the basic rpm's you will be at, but does not factor in all of the variables. Just a good place to start.

I ran 4:88 with my 35's on a 2 door 6 speed. It was great. I'm going 4:56 this time around on my 07 6 speed becasue this will mainly be a pavement princess.

OP I would go with 5.13's for sure if your auto, I daily mine 30 miles one way to work everyday with 35's and 5.13's and it is just about perfect, works well in the little offroading I have had a chance to do with it so far, and will run 80mph all day long and get about 14.5 mpg doing it better if I slow down. also I feel like I could still go up to 37's and be ok with the gears in mine, which is exactly what I plan to do when its time for tires again.

Ive looked at the charts and other write ups multiple times and thats y i decided to go 4.56 i have a manual sorry forgot to include that but thanks ill look into those sites and ordering them up soon .........and i have another question thought i would have to replace the carrier for the dana 30 so should i just get a locker while im at it? Would that be weird just having a locking diff up front and an open diff in the back?? or does it not matter cause i no if u have a 4wd and ur using tire chains its better to put the chains up front. would this be the same... Ive read it somewhere to think about it like a cats claws on a carpet. I no i definitly have to be careful not to leave them locked when theyre not sposed to be while turning

Locking the front and leaving the rear open will not cause any problems, other than the normal driveability issues associated with having the front end locked. (There is a new debate every few months on whether locking the front or rear is better when you can only afford to do one end.)

Assuming you do have 3.21's (?), now is a good time to consider adding some form of traction, instead of spending that $80 or $90 or whatever on another open carrier. Which way you go with it will depend on your use and needs. If you need a full locker and can afford the $1000 +/- price tag, a selectable is a great choice. If you do a lot of wheels-in-the-air offroading and don't drive a lot of snow/ice, a front detroit may be a good call. If you do not do a lot of heavy offroad, a truetrac is a fantastic option considering the cost vs performance. (around $390 for the d30 truetrac at Summit. You can get a pair for less than the cost of a single selectable)

What would be the benefit of a truetrac in a newer jk with traction control. If one wheel slips with trac on power goes to other wheel correct? Same function as a true trac.

Momentum. That breaking on the other wheel slows you down. It may pop you out of otherwise not moving, but a mechanical limited slip will work without breaking.

This comes into play in mud, sand and snow.

Limited slip is nice, I got a mopar tracloc put in mine at no charge from the shop when I got my regear. Truetrac is better I bet though.

In hindsight, I wish I just put a locker in the rear and a true trac up front. Best combo for my needs, current and future.

Don't forget to change the seals while the carrier is out. Get those plastic spacers too. Might as well change the U-joints and ball joints too. :eek2:

I guess we are roaming away from the initial gearing topic, but, it depends on your actual usage and needs. A quick question for you would be: if the computer controlled traction was good enough, why are both limited slips and full lockers offered from the factory?

As you noted, with an open diff, you'll have a tire that does have traction, but has no power to move the vehicle, and a tire that does not have traction, but is getting all of the power and spinning freely. At some point, the electronics decides to engage the brakes on the spinning tire, which sends "some amount" of power to the tire with traction, which 'hopefully' gets you unstuck. But how does this help if you actually needed momentum instead of having the brakes on, or needed the tire with traction to have more power than it gets through the braking transfer? Onroad or light offroad, bld may be all you need. But many people find that bld is not sufficient for their usage, either due to the timing of the transfer or that not enough power is actually being transferred.

To me, it seems kind of like the negative to selectable lockers. You drive with open diffs until you are stuck, then you reach down and push the button to lock the diffs and try to get yourself out. If you had known you were going to get stuck, you would have reached down and locked the axles before you got there. But then again, you didn't know you'd be stuck, so how could you have known to engage the lockers... (maybe that is over-simplified or understated or whatever, but ya know) The truetrac on the other hand (or any automatic locker), is always on. You never have to think about it. You aren't stuck before it thinks "hey, maybe I should apply the brakes and get to work", it is always helping whether you knew you needed it or not.

And as noted above, unlike the stock limited, the truetrac uses gears instead of clutches, so it will never wear out and be utterly useless.

OP

trust the charts + listen to Northridge

I have 5.13's on a six speed manual 2012 and 37's

The 5.13's are perfect for my Jeep but if I were a commuter I'd probably wish I had gone with something else like 4.88

The chart told me that 5.13 was better off road and ok on road

4.88 were ok off road but better on the highway

My goal was 90% off-road performance

Matthew