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Modified JK TechTech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.
PLEASE DO NOT START SHOW & TELL TYPE THREADS IN THIS FORUM
As jedg and nthinuf have already highlighted, lifting a jeep is not an exact science. In fact, it's complete opposite end of the spectrum. Literally, every jeep's outcome is different. The learning curve can be steep, and once you start tinkering with something, those changes have various implications further up/down the ladder. That's just part of having a lifted rig. It will take a little time to work things out, especially if you're trying to be budget conscious. There are fixes to everything. You can easily re-route the exhaust cross over if it's causing a clearance issue, or get an aftermarket DS, or both. A lot depends on your intended use. There are always tradeoffs, and you can never have EVERYTHING you want. Honestly, quality 2.5" lift with 35's is a nice look, and plenty of clearance for most offroading. Full set of 8 arms would be overkill for that as the rear wouldn't be adding a ton of function for you. You could always get some control arm brackets to start, and upgrade to adjustable front arms later (re-selling the brackets). As mentioned above, you can't count on getting the stated lift out of most springs. Actual netted lift will likely be a bit different....usually a bit higher to start.
This!
If you're planning on modifying the Jeep at all, do yourself a favor and go pick up a nice floor jack, a set of jack stands, a big socket wrench set, some wrenches, and a torque wrench. You're opening a can of worms, but it can be manageable. Stay low (2.5" on 35's is perfect and you'll be very capable). The only arms you'll need are front lowers, and rear uppers (correct your pinion angle ASAP, my rear driveshaft on my 2 door didn't even last 20k miles). I really suggest picking up rear lowers too though, you'll be able to push your rear axle into the center of the wheel well. Buy extended brake lines while you're at it, don't cheap out and use brackets. Some front shock relocation brackets will keep your shocks away from the frame, but aren't necessary unless you're looking for serious travel (shoving a 4-6" 11.8" travel shock in there).
Picking a good set of coils will be your toughest challenge. The Rock Krawler coils leave a bittersweet taste in my mouth; I love how soft they are, but I needed to repaint them to hide the surface rust after the powder coat started chipping). I run the 4 door 2.5 coils, and it netted 3.5" rear and ~3.25" front (I measured the actual lift at the coil perches/rear bumpstop pad). I looked ridiculous on 35's in my opinion, and was too high. With 37's it sits perfect, but for 35's I'd run the 4 door 1.5 coils (should net around 2.5" on your 2 door). I'd avoid Teraflex coils like the plague though, I tried a set and they were as stiff if not stiffer than Rough Country coils. Metalcloak coils really aren't worth the hype at all, I'll let you do your research before I turn all the fanboys against me. Synergy makes some nice coils. Avoid the EVO's, they'll make your 2 door sit way too high, and have stiffer coil rates than the RK. I'm not a RK fan, but IMO they have the best coils for a 2 door compared to the other options available to us, especially at their price point. I've tried a few coils (Rough Country, Teraflex, RK 1st gen, RK triple rates), and have ridden in a few of my buddies Jeeps with Metal cloak and Synergy coils. The RK triple rates and Synergy rode the 'best' (read: softest, doesn't make my girlfriend complain), hands down.
Whatever you do, don't expect to be 'done' anytime soon. You'll find yourself swapping parts until you're satisfied.
@nthinuf: Yeah, a lot of it will depend on where my budget is at around the time that my current tires are shot. They're not in great shape, but have some life left them yet, so just a matter of how long they last vs. how much I can manage to save up. It's entirely likely I'll go for a cheap lift just to get the clearance for the bigger tires, and do a proper lift later down the line.
@BoraBora: A Jeep is never "done"! That's half the fun!
But I just want to make sure I get the big stuff right (or as right as I can) to make tweaking and fine tuning just that much easier. I'm really leaning towards that over-kill RE kit, with all 8 arms... Getting all the geometry in every direction handled just like that would be nice, and doesn't seem like it would really end up being much more expensive than trying to get a cheaper kit and then adding stuff until it's all perfect. And I'd definitely like to get every bit of articulation I can out of it, and hopefully a more comprehensive kit would yield at least some slight gains in travel...
My poor old TJ was lifted when I got it, never actually had to shop for a lift before... this is a pain!
My poor old TJ was lifted when I got it, never actually had to shop for a lift before... this is a pain!
Y, it sure isn't as easy or straightforward as most go in thinking it's going to be. It's a labor of love.
There's absolutely nothing wrong with some spacer pucks for a little additional clearance in the short term. I would just stress to really continue your research (as you are), and purchase wisely the first time. It's always better to buy quality the first time, even if it means having to save longer for it. Sux to re-build it cuz once you realize all your previous missteps.
Yeah, my TJ was a constant disaster, as I was always trying to re-do things that the previous owner had done to it (he was apparently an idiot, and had neglected a lot of maintenance stuff) and breaking things left and right... Bending chromolly D44 shafts, busting shock mounts, etc. It was criminally expensive keeping that thing running, and my intention this time around is to A) Do it absolutely right the first time, B) make sure it's well cared for from the start, and C) Overbuild everything by a bit to provide some additional insurance against breakages. I should probably start a build thread or something to keep track of everything...
I would just stress to really continue your research (as you are), and purchase wisely the first time. It's always better to buy quality the first time, even if it means having to save longer for it. Sux to re-build it cuz once you realize all your previous missteps.
Resharp? Is that you? Or did someone hack your JK Forum account?
Lots of good options here. Another direction to go as has been stated is a spacer lift. Very little impact on original geometry, stock ride, low cost. With some flat fenders there’s plenty of clearance for 35’s. Here’s mine with a 2” AEV spacer lift and 35’s.
Lots of good options here. Another direction to go as has been stated is a spacer lift. Very little impact on original geometry, stock ride, low cost. With some flat fenders there’s plenty of clearance for 35’s. Here’s mine with a 2” AEV spacer lift and 35’s.
That's I route I'm going. 35's and flat fenders with no lift. Only minor rubbing at full flex...I'm trying to decide on a small spacer lift, or even a small body lift
Lots of good options here. Another direction to go as has been stated is a spacer lift. Very little impact on original geometry, stock ride, low cost. With some flat fenders there’s plenty of clearance for 35’s. Here’s mine with a 2” AEV spacer lift and 35’s.
Ooh, ok, those fenders are pretty slick... I don't see anything from AEV like that, but they look a heck of a lot like these Bushwhacker flares... How you liking them?
Oh, lol, the spacers were AEV... I totally win at reading comprehension!
Are they sturdy and flat enough that you can set things on them? I like having shelves when working on stuff...
07-06-2018, 05:58 AM
