I am thinking of buying a 2015 rubicon stick, I want to put 315-70 17 tires on it. No lift. Can I do this using the stock wheels, with trimming the air dam and fenders etc. only?

If I don't put on new wheels with a different back spacing or wheel spacers and I going to rub with the sway bars disconnected at fill turn and articulation?

 

It really all depends on what the mounted height and width of the tire measure. As a general rule you wouldn't want to go bigger than 33's with a lift. Some 33's would require wheel spacers with stock wheels.

 

Still haven't found the two threads stuck to the top of this modified area? Both have information on backspacing...

I guess the question to ask yourself is: Do you actually want to be able to turn? Or is going in a straight line ok? As the tire gets taller/wider, it needs to be moved out. That should make sense. The stock rims have roughly a 6.25" backspace. A very common recommendation for 35x12.50's is a 4.50" backspace. 6.25-4.50 = 1.75" further out than stock.

As far as the tire contact on other areas goes, it depends on the specifics. Which flares, how much bumpstop, what backspace you end up with, the actual tire size, etc. Metalcloak sells some high clearance flares that may be worth looking into, they state 37" tires with no lift. You could also be rubbing on the front bumper, the pinch seam, the plastic skid, etc. Hard to say until you start getting it put together.

 

I have 315/70/17 Duratracs on my 2014 Rubi with stick. If you don't want to do lift, saw threads on just changing out the fender flairs. I opted for 2.5 AEV kit and love it. Re wheels, read you can get away with 285s, with limited to no rub and minor mods on stocks rims. With 315s, you will need spacers or new wheels. Good spacers (hub centric) will run $200-250. For not much more you can get new wheels. Some people love spacers others are not fans, because you now have sets of lugs per wheel.

 

While the fenders might seem cheaper once you add it all up, look at the total cost vs the lift. Also if you are concerned with cost, you might not want to go to 315s, because when you put them on you might end up wanting to re-gear

 

I drove a manual 2015 with pro comp tires lift etc but not re-geared and it was fine,
AS for lifts I have been reading so much about them and find they really don't do much in terms of travel and articulation. but I do like the look and would go for it if I needed to . But I am working to try to to keep the cg down while increasing clearance and cost down too.

Know there are lots of folks running 35 with no lift

its just will I need wheels. or not I like the standard rubicon wheel so spacers are a possibility but I would prefer not to. Have them now and have never had a problem with them I have 80 thousand miles on them,

 

I have 14 Rubi stick and about to regear to 4.56 (which will get it close to stock ratio with 315s). 4.10s work pretty well with 315s and manual. With 315s and 4.10, it is basically like running 3.73s on stock tires (this is like a Sahara). A little more clutch, especially offroad and 6th needs more downshifts uphill. it is workable. Personal preference.

But I Just don't get the Rubi low end like when it was stock, so going to make the move. Gusseting axles and doing knuckles at same time.