Anyone wheeling on AEV wheels?
First, a quick into as I am a newbie to the site. I am from CT and run a 2dr JK Rubi. I have been wheeling stock for 6 months or so and have decided to upgrade.
I am looking at adding a 4" Superlift with 35's on AEV Bridgers. The wheels are sweet but don't know how long they stay that way. Does anyone have them and go off-road? They are powercoated but do they resist scratches and rashes?
Thanks!
Mig
I am looking at adding a 4" Superlift with 35's on AEV Bridgers. The wheels are sweet but don't know how long they stay that way. Does anyone have them and go off-road? They are powercoated but do they resist scratches and rashes?
Thanks!
Mig
I've got the 17" AEV Pintlers on my JK. My JK is not a daily driver but only used off road (and getting there). It has 6000 miles on it with the much of it off road (in harsh Colorado and Utah conditions). The wheels are in fine shape and I'd buy them again.
No alloy rim is resistant to scrathes and rashes. Steel rims are resistant or get alloys with fake locks and then make steel locks.
Below is MT Classic II that has a fake steel lock added on. They welded on some alloy tabs that have a thread for the fake lock srews.
Below is MT Classic II that has a fake steel lock added on. They welded on some alloy tabs that have a thread for the fake lock srews.
Good idea. One of the reasons I was going with the AEV is that it is compatible with the TPMS. From what I understand AEV is one of the few that are, do you get any false message from using MT's?
The dealer can reprogram your TPMS to a lower pressure if needed (due to running bigger tires).
FWIW I can't see running conventional beadlockers because they only hold one side of the tire on. A rock can pop the inside off too. If you really need a BL the Staun works well, holds both sides of the tire on the bead and will function as a run flat too.
As to running phony bead lockers for the looks..........that reminds me of the poser trucks Sothern Cal dealers used to do - jacked up 2WD trucks.
FWIW I can't see running conventional beadlockers because they only hold one side of the tire on. A rock can pop the inside off too. If you really need a BL the Staun works well, holds both sides of the tire on the bead and will function as a run flat too.
As to running phony bead lockers for the looks..........that reminds me of the poser trucks Sothern Cal dealers used to do - jacked up 2WD trucks.
STEEL fake bead locks AREN'T for looks they are the only option for rim protection if you run alloys and like playing with rocks. Do you have a better idea?
If they these were being used for looks they would be alloy and chromed
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If they these were being used for looks they would be alloy and chromed

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I guess I've never seen them used for that purpose. There's a lot of rigs around her that do nothing but play in the rocks (hell, Colorado and Utah are nothing but rock!) and they either have the real deal or nothing. If I was worried about this I'd run a steel rim.
I still believe it's a looks thing. I've been doing this since the early 70's and I've only bent one rim - and that was steel - and was because I got stupid with the skinny pedal.
I still believe it's a looks thing. I've been doing this since the early 70's and I've only bent one rim - and that was steel - and was because I got stupid with the skinny pedal.
I guess I've never seen them used for that purpose. There's a lot of rigs around her that do nothing but play in the rocks (hell, Colorado and Utah are nothing but rock!) and they either have the real deal or nothing. If I was worried about this I'd run a steel rim.
I still believe it's a looks thing. I've been doing this since the early 70's and I've only bent one rim - and that was steel - and was because I got stupid with the skinny pedal.
I still believe it's a looks thing. I've been doing this since the early 70's and I've only bent one rim - and that was steel - and was because I got stupid with the skinny pedal.
Thanks.


