Axle, Axle Shafts, Gears, and Lockers
04-10-2021, 09:21 AM
#1
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Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Indianapolis, IN
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Axle, Axle Shafts, Gears, and Lockers
Hey Everyone,
First time poster, long time lurker.
I have a 2018 JK Sport Unlimited (purchased new and paid off) that I've been slowly piecing together over the last two years. I've added a 2.5" Rock Krawler suspension and am running 35" Milestar Patagonias, I've also done the other normal upgrades, bumpers, sliders, winch.
I'm really trying to build my rig correctly (not focusing too much on aesthetics), so naturally the next step is for me to actually focus on the drivetrain. I need to regear, but I do not want to throw money at the front D30 and also don't want to have work done on my diffs without adding lockers. So my thought is to purchase an aftermarket D44 for the front, add lockers, and regear all at the same time. I'll also have to upgrade axle shafts for this to work.
Would some of you take a look at my list and give me your opinions on it? I do wheel the Jeep, nothing too terribly extreme, but we wheel it hours from home, so I need it to be reliable.
Teraflex Front Tera44 w/ 4.88 and ARB Locker (30 Spline)
Ten Factory Front 44 Prorock U-Joint Axle Kit
Yukon 44 4.88 R&P for Rear
Yukon 44 Rear Master Differential Kit
ARB 44 Locker 35 Spline 3.92 Up
Ten Factory 44 35 Spline Rear Axle Kit
I'm not purchasing a compressor just yet, I'd like the dual ARB unit, but I'll have to wait to get a bit more funds before my next trip, trying to stay cash funded here.
Thank you in advance for your help!
First time poster, long time lurker.
I have a 2018 JK Sport Unlimited (purchased new and paid off) that I've been slowly piecing together over the last two years. I've added a 2.5" Rock Krawler suspension and am running 35" Milestar Patagonias, I've also done the other normal upgrades, bumpers, sliders, winch.
I'm really trying to build my rig correctly (not focusing too much on aesthetics), so naturally the next step is for me to actually focus on the drivetrain. I need to regear, but I do not want to throw money at the front D30 and also don't want to have work done on my diffs without adding lockers. So my thought is to purchase an aftermarket D44 for the front, add lockers, and regear all at the same time. I'll also have to upgrade axle shafts for this to work.
Would some of you take a look at my list and give me your opinions on it? I do wheel the Jeep, nothing too terribly extreme, but we wheel it hours from home, so I need it to be reliable.
Teraflex Front Tera44 w/ 4.88 and ARB Locker (30 Spline)
Ten Factory Front 44 Prorock U-Joint Axle Kit
Yukon 44 4.88 R&P for Rear
Yukon 44 Rear Master Differential Kit
ARB 44 Locker 35 Spline 3.92 Up
Ten Factory 44 35 Spline Rear Axle Kit
I'm not purchasing a compressor just yet, I'd like the dual ARB unit, but I'll have to wait to get a bit more funds before my next trip, trying to stay cash funded here.
Thank you in advance for your help!
04-10-2021, 12:18 PM
#2
Super Moderator
I’ve had bad luck with even the simplest teraflex products, I’d hate to see how bad they will mess up an axle. I’d stay far away from teraflex. I’m sure many others will say the same thing. Take a look at the Currie or dynatrac front axle housings, they’re leagues ahead of teraflex in that arena.
everything else on your list looks good.
edit: if you’re going 35 spline in the rear why not 35 spline up front?
everything else on your list looks good.
edit: if you’re going 35 spline in the rear why not 35 spline up front?
04-10-2021, 12:25 PM
#3
Super Moderator
Welcome to the forum Nick. It's true, there's quite a bit of talk of "throwing away" money on the D30, but can you help us out as to why you're wanting/ needing to upgrade the axle? I ask as someone who has wheeled with a D30 for some years now and had beadlocked 35's on that axle without issue yet. As weak as it may be, driver awareness and finesse can get you where you need to be without breaking parts. As a matter of fact, I'm yet to break anything on the D30 but the rear D44 that seems to be ignored has left me with a bent axle flange- and I'm not alone in my experience.
Should I upgrade? Probably. But at this point, I can't see the price justification. It's got 230k miles on it and works just fine. I did add C gussets and LCA skids years ago, beefed up the stock shock mounts (tore them from inadequate bumpstop w/ shock relo brackets) a while back, and recently regeared the front axle. All of these costs were less than a new axle and in all of that time- zero axle shaft snaps. I inspect u-joints regularly so I'm not putting myself in the position of a dry joint just waiting to blow up and take the yokes with it. Actually, I believe I've got a couple extra sets of front axle shafts that I've not gotten to use either.
It all circles back and there's a pattern I've seen through the years- folks spend more money than necessary trying to prevent something that's not nearly as likely as they believe. In the process of spending all of the money and going through all of the hassle of getting things right, they lose interest, money, or both. It doesn't seem funding is an issue for you, but maybe take a step back and evaluate your needs. To touch back on your notes in your intro- my closest place to wheel used to be 8 hours away. Now I'm roughly an hour away. There's no difference in the build, you just use quality parts and use your noggin.
Should I upgrade? Probably. But at this point, I can't see the price justification. It's got 230k miles on it and works just fine. I did add C gussets and LCA skids years ago, beefed up the stock shock mounts (tore them from inadequate bumpstop w/ shock relo brackets) a while back, and recently regeared the front axle. All of these costs were less than a new axle and in all of that time- zero axle shaft snaps. I inspect u-joints regularly so I'm not putting myself in the position of a dry joint just waiting to blow up and take the yokes with it. Actually, I believe I've got a couple extra sets of front axle shafts that I've not gotten to use either.
It all circles back and there's a pattern I've seen through the years- folks spend more money than necessary trying to prevent something that's not nearly as likely as they believe. In the process of spending all of the money and going through all of the hassle of getting things right, they lose interest, money, or both. It doesn't seem funding is an issue for you, but maybe take a step back and evaluate your needs. To touch back on your notes in your intro- my closest place to wheel used to be 8 hours away. Now I'm roughly an hour away. There's no difference in the build, you just use quality parts and use your noggin.
