Ok, so I have a bit of a conundrum regarding what I should have done with my front axle. First off I have a lifetime warranty on my JKUR by Chrystler and a fairly lenient dealership (Dave Smith) which can keep a good portion of my JK in good repair.

Currently I am running a 3.5 inch lift with 37 inch tires on 16.5 inch rims that are quire heavy. Currently I am running a completely stock drivetrain with a 1:4.10 ratio from the factory. Over the summer I bent my stock JKU Rubicon front axle housing and have been trying to figure out what to do regarding it.

First option would be to have the tubes straightened out and then re-enforced with a custom truss by a local fabricator (www.jantz4x4.com) which could potentially fix the problem without modifying much of the stock parts.

Second option would be to go with a Dynatrac Prorock 44 so I can swap my stock axle shaft, lockers and differential into a more robust housing. This would also solve the issue but void the lifetime warranty on basically everything after the transfer case but would be a better option rather than rebuilding the stock parts.

I am unsure if there are any other options since going with a Currie wont work as they require a 17 inch rim for their RockJock axle. Do any of you have other suggestions that might work? I am trying to keep this under $5 which would eliminate going with a Dana 60.

 

If I were in your situation, I'd buy a pair of take-off Rubicon axles that have already been regard to 4.88s or 5.13s and sell your rear axle to offset the cost. I'd keep the front axle guts for spares.

You should be able to find a pair of take-off regeared Rubicon axles for about $3500-$4000. You should be able to sell your rear axle for around $1200-$1500.

I wouldn't worry about warranty coverage on driveshafts or axles. If yours fail, you want to upgrade anyway.

 

My JKUR is in dealership now they say I bent the rear axles and won"t warranty them.They want $1300 to put new stock ones back in? Should i upgrade instead or will this void more of warranty?

 

That dealership is trying to rape you. Rear axles are a one hour job. Parts are about $400 for aftermarket chromoly axles.

 

That is what I was reading on the forum. Should I sleeve

 

If you go with a ProRock 44 and are using the stock Rubicon locker, you will only be able to use that locker, no upgrading to an ARB later. If you ever want to sell your PR44 later this will be a big factor in the re-sale demand and price.

I think Planman's advice is very solid and is a good stepping stone that is affordable. Wheel the new setup till it breaks then get a 60.

 

That is not correct
ARB AIR LOCKER JEEP JK RUBICON (RD157)

I went with the Dynatrac 44 Unlimited HD, you get all the normal dynatrac upgrades, plus extra caster to help with a lifted jeep, and even thicker axle tubes than the normal dynatrac.

I love the piece of mind the Dynatrac gives me offroad .

 

Thank you for response. That is what I have been reading on the forum new chromoly axles at around $400. Should I consider sleeving the axle also?

 

You can't sleeve the rear axle. Only the front can be sleeved.

 

There was a thread not long ago about a rear Artec truss install, you might find some info there.

Rear G2's are $295, plus whatever the shop charges for pressing the bearings. ($40 at my local shop for bearings and studs)