mr.brav90

So here is the situation. I own a 2010 manual sport jk. I will be installing 35s and a 3.5 inch lift in the near future. to regear to 4.88 is alot of money and the sport comes with a d30 front axle pretty punnie and the 35 i think might stress it if i do any moderate amount of wheeling.

MY Idea. instead of spending alot of upfront money in beefing up a D30 axle and re-gearing right to 4.88 my idea was in hopes to go to a junk yard and find a lightly used set of Rubicon axles. Both front and back to trade and pay the difference for my two axles. this way i have a stronger front axle and a 4.1 gearing to do me better till i find the need to go 4.88 and at that time i will have a stronger axel and i believe it will come with lockers too if i can make them work in my sport.

has anyone else done this swap? will a rubicon and sport match up? would i be better off just beefing up what i have? what do you all think i have only own a jeep for a year so still new to the game but have done most of the work on her my self. some veteran advice would be nice!

thanks
Brett

u-joint

I've not done a swap... But, do keep in mind that unless you get a Dyntratrac PR 44, you will still need to guesset you Cs on your new D44.

mr.brav90

true. but i still feel like i would be better off with a 44 in front if i could do the trade for cheep better gearing lockers and stronger axle. that that would cost alot in parts in labor if i just did it to what i have now. messing with gears i believe is beyond my ability.

u-joint

No... I agree. I just wanted to mention the gussets... I wouldn't want you to go through all that effort and just end up bending your new Cs.

The axles should just bolt right up, not problems. The lockers... They sell a dash kit for the buttons... I am not sure if you'll need your ECU flashed.

Just a little side note... With gussets, the D30 should be fine for 35s.... Just food for thought.

mr.brav90

would you think if i sleeved it and put put on gussets it would be as strong? because i think the hardiest part of this job will be finding a axle in a junk ward that has not been gutted.

u-joint

That's what I did (sleeved and gusseted). The housing can be made strong, but peoples biggest fear about the D30 is the R&P size.

Again, if all you are interested in is 35s, and you don't got hog wild on the gas pedal, with some sleeves and gussets you should be A-OK.... But... There are just ad many people who can tell you about how they've broken a D30.

It's a tough call... There is no clear answer. I, personally, and going to stick with my D30 a little longer.

MarvinMWJT

I have been running the D30 with 35's for over 3 years and not a problem. I also have the 410's and c-gussets. The biggest concern with the 30 is the ring and pinion.

DeucesALLin

Okay- I just DESTROYED my D30 in an on-road accident, so I have some personal experience here, though I may regret this route later...

After pricing USED D44's from sources like LKQ, I decided to go with a brand new OEM D30 and truss it, sleeve it, gusset it, and lock it. My rational was this:

- I run 32" tires, and will untill at least next fall
- Next fall I do not see myself going past 35"s
- This is my daily driver, so I am easy on the loud pedal when in 4x4
- Strengthened ring and pinion sets will NOT be hard to find, if needed
AND MOST IMPORTANTLY...
- D30's are plentifull, so I could AFFORD to have a spare ready!

The idea is to have another complete axle assembly, capable of being bolted in an hour or so, on the trail or at the shop. What are your thoughts?

nthinuf

The JK d30 and d44 use the same basic housings. Same length and tube size/thickness and tall, weak C's. The only difference is the center section on the 44 is a bit larger to accommodate the 44 gears. You will want the same Gussets/Sleeves/Truss/etc on the 44 as on the 30.
The factory elockers seem to be a bit problem prone as well, and the fronts are roughly $1200 to replace. (that is just for the locker, not including labor).
The big benefit to the rubi axle is, of course, the gears. They are much larger than the d30 gears, and almost as thick as d60 gears.

Haven't priced the rubi rear axles, but don't expect to find a front for less that $1500 or so. Closer to 2k would probably be more realistic. And for a new front, somewhere close to 3k. Then add in the cost of the strength upgrades you choose, plus the labor if you can't weld yourself. - and you have an expensive, beefed up, 'weak' factory axle. That is why so many are moving to PR's. No matter what you do to a factory housing, it is still a factory housing. People are bending C's that have been gusseted. And shattering housings that have sleeves installed.

My opinion - if you can afford to move to a PR44 or to a 60, you would be better off going that route. If you can't afford it, do as many strength upgrades to the factory housing as you can afford.



I think you would be better off upgrading that dumping a ton of money into 'throw-away' axles. But it's your money...

JayKay69

your d30 will be fine. just make sure at least you do is c gussets. If you ever break it, then I would think about upgrading to either a pro rock 44 or If you can find a front d44 for cheap