Can I get learned from the knowing folks: how to determin what type/material,spline to use? Have D30F & D44R stock axles now. Gonna regear to 4.88. Thinkin' thats the time to install upgrades if needed. 2dr. auto w/35" tires. Also, E-lockers F&R.
Thanks-

 

Not quite sure what all you are asking. Type of housing reinforcement? Which metal to choose for aftermarket axle shafts? Spline counts for stock shafts, or what you can move up to?


non-rubi:
d30 - 27sp inner, 32sp outer
d44 - 30sp

So if you stick with stock shafts (or stock size shafts), you'll want a 27sp locker up from, and a 30sp locker in back. If you move up to 35sp shafts, then of course you will want lockers that will work with those shafts.


Aftermaket shaft materials:
1541H - pass on these
4130/4140/4340 - should be fine with any of these
300m on up - gets more expensive

G2 and TenFactory seem to be the two to beat these days.


For the housing, do some browsing on C gussets and/or axle sleeves and/or axle truss. What, if anything, you get depends on your budget and needs.

 

Yes sir; wow so much to choose. What is the benefit to sleeve front axle? Or would it be better to increase to higher spline no.?/better material. Or is it really better to run stock parts until they brake; then you know for sure which items are in need of an upgrade? So much to learn.:-!

 

Inner sleeves add tube thickness inside the housing tubes. Outer sleeves are clamshells that add thickness on the outside of the housing. They will make the housing less susceptible to bending when smacking rocks and/or shattering at the passenger ca mounts, but may just move the weak point to the diff. A truss will make the housing more rigid and less prone to bending on up/down hits, like higher speed offroad driving. (plenty of threads to search on that will explain it much better than I can...)

Higher spline shafts will be thicker and stronger. Or, go to alloy shafts with stock splines and then use your stock shafts as trail spares. Or, stay with the stock shafts until you have a reason to upgrade. Don't think there is a right or wrong answer there. (plenty of threads to search on that will give more opinions...)

As noted, the metal does matter. 1541h isn't much stronger than stock, 300m is stronger but gets pretty expensive, so choose one of the middle metals. TenFactory warrants bent flanges, G2 is matching TenFactories specs and warranty for less money. Nitro's are expensive and their warranty sucks in comparison. (and again - plenty of threads to search on that will give more opinions...)

 

Wow* Thnx again for the info. :-D

 

Make sure you design a fuse in your system though. It's much easier to replace a ujoint on the trail than it is to replace a carrier or gears.

You're correct that finding out what you need is a better solution than blindly upgrading pieces without knowing the benefit. There are a couple pieces that should be first and then you can go from there. The c gussets mentioned above are important at any level whereas the truss is important when you start going larger tires.

Check out the locker videos on YouTube to educate yourself on why you should choose which locker. Again, this goes back to the fuse category- I would rather replace a ujoint or even the shaft before the carrier

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Yes sir; I like to learn before I burn all the cash, thata way I hope to pay to play justa once. ;-)

 

Good info. Thanks for sharing. What would you use as a fuse as far as how to pick what u-joint to use? I'm assuming it may be stock u-joints. What type of u-joints to get after breaking the oe ones?

 

Yes, stock u-joints would be the fuse. You can 'upgrade' to the advance/ autozone house brand (5-297x equivalent) and then if you elect to 'upgrade' further then you're looking at the Spicer 5-760x joints (IIRC). My understanding is the next level for 'upgrade' would be the CTM joint but I have no experience there, I just know they're hella pricey.

Advance/ autozone house brand is around $20 or so, the spicer 5-760x is ~$45.

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Yukons Superjoint and CTMs are very nice. Stockers are just fine and like you said are hopefully the weak point. Only issue is when a ujoint breaks its likely to take out your shaft and possibly ball joints also... Also alloy usa make a Alloy-X U joint, but only for dana 30s not 44s. At least at the last time I looked at them that was the case.