As mentioned, my jeep pulls pretty badly to the right. When braking it pulls and when driving 'straight' regardless of the road surface, I have to 'turn' slightly to the left to go straight. I've re-centered the steering wheel, so that's not it plus I can actually feel the wheels 'turn' to make it go straight.

I have a TF leveling kit with no other changed components. I am running procomp 8069's (15x10) with 33's. I had KM2's and it drove the way it does now, and now I have a literally brand new set of T/A KO's and it still drifts / pulls.

Thoughts on what I can adjust or have checked out?

 

This happened to me. It was my rear trackbar. If your axle is not centered in relation to the frame it will cause crabbing...which is a constant pull to one side. Project jk has a great write up on installing an adjustable rear trackbar, and how to center it. Checking your front trackbar would be next. Just to make things simple at first ensure all of your tires are inflated at the same psi. 5 psi difference in a front tire can cause that drift you are experiencing.

 

I think I saw another post of yours related to the rear trackbar. Could the small changes I've made cause something to be off in that department? With my wheels the tires stick out well past the fender flares so just use a long level and measure from level to flare on each side to see if they are the same, correct? How much offset either way would be considered 'acceptable'?

I did check the tires and the pressure is consistent - all are at 32 (they were installed late yesterday).

 

ok. so it appears that the rear is off about 3/4" to the passenger side and the front is off about 1/2" to the driver side. I guess I wouldn't have thought that a leveling kit would make that much of a difference? I also put on one grade stiffer springs and shocks from a rubicon, but aren't all factory track bars the same length? I wouldn't think that different factory springs would change the geometry that much?

 

In my experience if you replace springs or add a BB with anything other than what the factory sent it out the door with you will have issues. 3/4 of a inch doesn't sound like a big deal, but it is. Mine was 1.25 inches to the drivers side on my rear axle after I installed the coil spring correction plates. It was nearly impossible to drive safely on the pavement due to crabbing. I had to get a adjustable rear trackbar just so I could drive it again. I even took 3 days off work because it was that scary to drive like that. I bought a rubicon express trackbar from 4 wheel parts because they were offering free shipping on RE parts. It drives great now. I got my axle centered within 1/16 th of an inch on each side. Just make sure you use the same reference point on the tires each time you measure. I used a level and marked my tires with a pen to make sure I was measuring the same spot on each tire. You can even take the tires off and go off of the brake disc, but it is harder to get a read on the frame unless you use a large carpentry square.

 

Yes, to answer your question, changing the springs from the original springs will change the body height- hence causing the trackbar to pull the axle over.

 

thank you much. Sounds like I have a project for the long weekend. Should taking care of the rear likely address the issue (based on what I've mentioned so far)?

 

It sounds exactly like what happened to me. If you are iffy on the measuring, once you get an adjustable rear trackbar you can have an alignment shop center it. Then they can do the front. If you have a second person to shift the body weight ( see project jk's write up on trackbar) then you can do it yourself. I prefer doing my own work, it's cheaper, and I learn how to make adjustments. Best of luck to you.

 

same here. I'll give it a go and see what happens. I appreciate the info!