Best Stubby Front Bumper?
JK Super Freak
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,835
Likes: 0
From: The Deep Dark Woods of Texas!
I think there are several on the market now, I have a Shrocks, helped RubiRascal install his LOD and really like it, even has provisions for the stock fogs, Shrocks should have done the same instead of just doing it on the mid-widths. The Shrocks and LOD are beasts though, well built.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 158
Likes: 0
From: TX
I think there are several on the market now, I have a Shrocks, helped RubiRascal install his LOD and really like it, even has provisions for the stock fogs, Shrocks should have done the same instead of just doing it on the mid-widths. The Shrocks and LOD are beasts though, well built.
JK Super Freak
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,235
Likes: 0
I think there are several on the market now, I have a Shrocks, helped RubiRascal install his LOD and really like it, even has provisions for the stock fogs, Shrocks should have done the same instead of just doing it on the mid-widths. The Shrocks and LOD are beasts though, well built.
JK Newbie
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
From: Southlake, TX
If your budget's tight (or the other half put the clamps down like my deal) try a stock turned stubby mod. Assuming you don't need the steel ruggedness and it's more for clearance.
I did this for about $25-30 (assuming you have the tools and time). If you care to know more, browse this picture gallery below as I have a few illustrations in it. I put a quick list of steps below the pictures here.
Gallery -
Here was the general process…
- cut off the outer plastic end pieces by scribing 1.25 inches out from the 'impact bulge'. Only cut the plastic, you will cut the metal support later. I used a cutoff 4.5" grinder for a smooth edge. Had to finish the inner cuts with a recip saw since the circular blade did not reach all the inner plastic areas.
- Unbolt the 2 outer most mount screws from the back side before removing as these are on the outside edge of your cut and the end pieces won’t come off until you do. (see pic illust)
- Once the ends (plastic only) are off. Cut the metal bumper support off just outside the 2 mount bolt holes. That way you could actually go back to stock if desired. Use a recip saw for this. Metal cuts pretty easy. Cut ended up like a sideways ‘U’, just clearing the 2 existing mount holes. This will become obvious after you try to dry fit the slip in ends. After cutting the metal end off, you need to reattach the middle bumper plastic skin to the inner steel mount. I simply drilled 2 holes just inwards enough to reach the existing plastic shell and used nuts to hold them. These will need to be mounted before attempting to remount the new ends as the nuts are inside the cavity. (see pic illust)
- Take each end piece you cut off and cut 8.25 additional inches off the inner side. Scribe it along the same cut you already made. I used a jig saw for this cut. You can eyeball the back edge as there is no way to scribe it since it is a 'u' shape. Once you cut it off, you will also need to cut 2 slits to allow it to slide into the existing bumper. I have a few pics showing the backside slits. (see pic illust)
- Slide the end stub inside the groove on the remaining bumper. Cut/Trim as needed. You will want at least on inch overlap or more. You may have to trim more inner steel to get the fit / overlap desired.
- The rest was to make things more aesthetic. I used 1/16” by 1” aluminum bar from Home depot and cut each piece to fit on either side of the ‘impact bulge’. I rounded the edges. I drilled each to receive a ¼” lag screw and let the lag screws go thru the outer plastic and in some areas it also captured the inner plastic, making a pretty secure fit. I filled the overlap with black silicone and after drying, I used flat black spray paint. This gave it a more ‘welded’ look. All the ¼ inch bolts you see are stainless lag screws ¾ inches long. This is about as long as you can go without hitting the steel as you tighten them. (see pic issust)
- Last thing was to torch the lower plastic deflector and bend the ends upwards to match the new lines of the bumper ends. This would only be needed if you overlap as far as I did which leaves the under deflector kinda misaligned.
ps. I’ve added picks to the gallery to illustrate some of this. See link in 1st posting. I spent about $25 on hardware and metal blades I needed. Took me a couple days of tinkering. The aluminum is the biggest time consumer, but does finish it off.
RB
I did this for about $25-30 (assuming you have the tools and time). If you care to know more, browse this picture gallery below as I have a few illustrations in it. I put a quick list of steps below the pictures here.
Gallery -
Here was the general process…
- cut off the outer plastic end pieces by scribing 1.25 inches out from the 'impact bulge'. Only cut the plastic, you will cut the metal support later. I used a cutoff 4.5" grinder for a smooth edge. Had to finish the inner cuts with a recip saw since the circular blade did not reach all the inner plastic areas.
- Unbolt the 2 outer most mount screws from the back side before removing as these are on the outside edge of your cut and the end pieces won’t come off until you do. (see pic illust)
- Once the ends (plastic only) are off. Cut the metal bumper support off just outside the 2 mount bolt holes. That way you could actually go back to stock if desired. Use a recip saw for this. Metal cuts pretty easy. Cut ended up like a sideways ‘U’, just clearing the 2 existing mount holes. This will become obvious after you try to dry fit the slip in ends. After cutting the metal end off, you need to reattach the middle bumper plastic skin to the inner steel mount. I simply drilled 2 holes just inwards enough to reach the existing plastic shell and used nuts to hold them. These will need to be mounted before attempting to remount the new ends as the nuts are inside the cavity. (see pic illust)
- Take each end piece you cut off and cut 8.25 additional inches off the inner side. Scribe it along the same cut you already made. I used a jig saw for this cut. You can eyeball the back edge as there is no way to scribe it since it is a 'u' shape. Once you cut it off, you will also need to cut 2 slits to allow it to slide into the existing bumper. I have a few pics showing the backside slits. (see pic illust)
- Slide the end stub inside the groove on the remaining bumper. Cut/Trim as needed. You will want at least on inch overlap or more. You may have to trim more inner steel to get the fit / overlap desired.
- The rest was to make things more aesthetic. I used 1/16” by 1” aluminum bar from Home depot and cut each piece to fit on either side of the ‘impact bulge’. I rounded the edges. I drilled each to receive a ¼” lag screw and let the lag screws go thru the outer plastic and in some areas it also captured the inner plastic, making a pretty secure fit. I filled the overlap with black silicone and after drying, I used flat black spray paint. This gave it a more ‘welded’ look. All the ¼ inch bolts you see are stainless lag screws ¾ inches long. This is about as long as you can go without hitting the steel as you tighten them. (see pic issust)
- Last thing was to torch the lower plastic deflector and bend the ends upwards to match the new lines of the bumper ends. This would only be needed if you overlap as far as I did which leaves the under deflector kinda misaligned.
ps. I’ve added picks to the gallery to illustrate some of this. See link in 1st posting. I spent about $25 on hardware and metal blades I needed. Took me a couple days of tinkering. The aluminum is the biggest time consumer, but does finish it off.
RB
Last edited by RubiRedRider; Sep 5, 2008 at 02:54 PM.
JK Super Freak
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,835
Likes: 0
From: The Deep Dark Woods of Texas!
just got your pm, was easy, RubiRascal and I knocked it out in about an hour I'd say once we read the directions which sucked big time. Bumper went on first, then the winch plate, then the winch, then the skid, cake walk.
JK Super Freak
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,835
Likes: 0
From: The Deep Dark Woods of Texas!
If your budget's tight (or the other half put the clamps down like my deal) try a stock turned stubby mod. Assuming you don't need the steel ruggedness and it's more for clearance.
I did this for about $25-30 (assuming you have the tools and time). If you care to know more, browse this picture gallery below as I have a few illustrations in it. I put a quick list of steps below the pictures here.
Gallery -
Here was the general process…
- cut off the outer plastic end pieces by scribing 1.25 inches out from the 'impact bulge'. Only cut the plastic, you will cut the metal support later. I used a cutoff 4.5" grinder for a smooth edge. Had to finish the inner cuts with a recip saw since the circular blade did not reach all the inner plastic areas.
- Unbolt the 2 outer most mount screws from the back side before removing as these are on the outside edge of your cut and the end pieces won’t come off until you do. (see pic illust)
- Once the ends (plastic only) are off. Cut the metal bumper support off just outside the 2 mount bolt holes. That way you could actually go back to stock if desired. Use a recip saw for this. Metal cuts pretty easy. Cut ended up like a sideways ‘U’, just clearing the 2 existing mount holes. This will become obvious after you try to dry fit the slip in ends. After cutting the metal end off, you need to reattach the middle bumper plastic skin to the inner steel mount. I simply drilled 2 holes just inwards enough to reach the existing plastic shell and used nuts to hold them. These will need to be mounted before attempting to remount the new ends as the nuts are inside the cavity. (see pic illust)
- Take each end piece you cut off and cut 8.25 additional inches off the inner side. Scribe it along the same cut you already made. I used a jig saw for this cut. You can eyeball the back edge as there is no way to scribe it since it is a 'u' shape. Once you cut it off, you will also need to cut 2 slits to allow it to slide into the existing bumper. I have a few pics showing the backside slits. (see pic illust)
- Slide the end stub inside the groove on the remaining bumper. Cut/Trim as needed. You will want at least on inch overlap or more. You may have to trim more inner steel to get the fit / overlap desired.
- The rest was to make things more aesthetic. I used 1/16” by 1” aluminum bar from Home depot and cut each piece to fit on either side of the ‘impact bulge’. I rounded the edges. I drilled each to receive a ¼” lag screw and let the lag screws go thru the outer plastic and in some areas it also captured the inner plastic, making a pretty secure fit. I filled the overlap with black silicone and after drying, I used flat black spray paint. This gave it a more ‘welded’ look. All the ¼ inch bolts you see are stainless lag screws ¾ inches long. This is about as long as you can go without hitting the steel as you tighten them. (see pic issust)
- Last thing was to torch the lower plastic deflector and bend the ends upwards to match the new lines of the bumper ends. This would only be needed if you overlap as far as I did which leaves the under deflector kinda misaligned.
ps. I’ve added picks to the gallery to illustrate some of this. See link in 1st posting. I spent about $25 on hardware and metal blades I needed. Took me a couple days of tinkering. The aluminum is the biggest time consumer, but does finish it off.
RB
I did this for about $25-30 (assuming you have the tools and time). If you care to know more, browse this picture gallery below as I have a few illustrations in it. I put a quick list of steps below the pictures here.
Gallery -
Here was the general process…
- cut off the outer plastic end pieces by scribing 1.25 inches out from the 'impact bulge'. Only cut the plastic, you will cut the metal support later. I used a cutoff 4.5" grinder for a smooth edge. Had to finish the inner cuts with a recip saw since the circular blade did not reach all the inner plastic areas.
- Unbolt the 2 outer most mount screws from the back side before removing as these are on the outside edge of your cut and the end pieces won’t come off until you do. (see pic illust)
- Once the ends (plastic only) are off. Cut the metal bumper support off just outside the 2 mount bolt holes. That way you could actually go back to stock if desired. Use a recip saw for this. Metal cuts pretty easy. Cut ended up like a sideways ‘U’, just clearing the 2 existing mount holes. This will become obvious after you try to dry fit the slip in ends. After cutting the metal end off, you need to reattach the middle bumper plastic skin to the inner steel mount. I simply drilled 2 holes just inwards enough to reach the existing plastic shell and used nuts to hold them. These will need to be mounted before attempting to remount the new ends as the nuts are inside the cavity. (see pic illust)
- Take each end piece you cut off and cut 8.25 additional inches off the inner side. Scribe it along the same cut you already made. I used a jig saw for this cut. You can eyeball the back edge as there is no way to scribe it since it is a 'u' shape. Once you cut it off, you will also need to cut 2 slits to allow it to slide into the existing bumper. I have a few pics showing the backside slits. (see pic illust)
- Slide the end stub inside the groove on the remaining bumper. Cut/Trim as needed. You will want at least on inch overlap or more. You may have to trim more inner steel to get the fit / overlap desired.
- The rest was to make things more aesthetic. I used 1/16” by 1” aluminum bar from Home depot and cut each piece to fit on either side of the ‘impact bulge’. I rounded the edges. I drilled each to receive a ¼” lag screw and let the lag screws go thru the outer plastic and in some areas it also captured the inner plastic, making a pretty secure fit. I filled the overlap with black silicone and after drying, I used flat black spray paint. This gave it a more ‘welded’ look. All the ¼ inch bolts you see are stainless lag screws ¾ inches long. This is about as long as you can go without hitting the steel as you tighten them. (see pic issust)
- Last thing was to torch the lower plastic deflector and bend the ends upwards to match the new lines of the bumper ends. This would only be needed if you overlap as far as I did which leaves the under deflector kinda misaligned.
ps. I’ve added picks to the gallery to illustrate some of this. See link in 1st posting. I spent about $25 on hardware and metal blades I needed. Took me a couple days of tinkering. The aluminum is the biggest time consumer, but does finish it off.
RB
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 248
Likes: 0
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Bulldog Fab has nice matching fron't and rear stubby bumpers - extremely high quality & heavy duty. Can get the front with or without a stinger - or even with a removable stinger.... which is what I will be doing when I have the funds.