I have a 2012, two door, Rubicon with soft brake pedal. The pedal goes to the floor once engine is started.

Has been to 3 different shops including the dealership with no resolution.

The following has been replaced: 4 calipers (powerstop), 4 rotors (powerstop), all pads, 4 braided lines, master cylinder, brake booster, ABS module, vacuum pump and has been bench/pressure bled. There are no apparent leeks in the lines.

Any ideas?

 

There is a special ABS bleed routine that takes a fairly high end scanner to initiate. The dealer will have the capability, and even my OTC scanner has it. The brakes have to be bled by normal procedures following this. There are so many posts with messed up repairs and incompetence. Makes me wonder... Post back and let us know how it goes.



Edit: It may take more than one ABS bleed plus regular bleed sequence to get all the bubbles out. Three shops letting you out the door with a brake pedal that goes to the floor is so bizarre, not to mention unsafe. Did they acknowledge the problem was there after repair, or tell you it was OK and ready to drive?

 

Ok, you opened up the entire system other than the ABS unit. Discounting the possibility the new master cylinder is faulty, most likely you still have air trapped in the system. The ABS is well sealed off when inactive so when you open the rest of the system it usually isn't affected and doesn't need to be bled using the dealer's StarScan routine. I would first try pressure bleeding the system using something like Motive Product's units along with their dedicated Chrysler adapter. https://www.amazon.com/Motive-Products-250-System-Bleeder/dp/B00CJ5E1GS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521990949&sr=8-3&keywords=Motive+pressure+bleeder It may take multiple flusings and a few quarts of fluid to get all the air out. Rear lines on JKs are very restricted and flow extremely slowly, even under pressure. That's usually where the issue lies. Once you've run a couple quarts of fluid through the entire system it should be good to go. If you still have the issue after all that then the ABS needs to be cycled using the StarScan. Hope this helps.

 

He wrote that the ABS module was replaced, here's a pic from Rockauto. Looks to me like replacing it (taking it apart) will get air in the ABS system.

 

Oh, darn, sorry. I missed that in his list of replaced parts. Yes, if the ABS module is opened or replaced it has to be cycled & bled using the dealers StarScan system or any aftermarket scanner that has the Chrysler ABS functions.

Again, pressure bleeding will be the best way to flush air from the system.

 

I can relate with your issue. I did a total brake replacement on my 2010 jeep wrangler an it took a while to figure out what was going on. Mr. T is correct. the mechanics think that they can do a scan bleed on the ABs system and go it the furthest caliber from the ABS an bleed that air out of the system . Well on Jeeps that doesn't work and I have found that most mechanics do know this. I don't remember the SB number but that was a revised SB sent out to all the Service managers telling the correct way to bleed the jeep brakes. Here the correct way to do it. 1st have the scan bleed done to the ABS . Once the bleed is done use a pressure tank on the master Cylinder making sure that it is topped off. Next go to the passenger side bleeder and bleed it till you see clear fluid and close the bleeder . then go to the Drivers rear the passenger front and the driver front making sure after each caliber the that master cylinder stays topped off. DONT LET IT GET TO LOW OR YOU WILL HAVE BIGGER PROBLEM. Once you have finished the bleed check the brakes. if they are still soft you still have air so do it again. . When I did my brakes I did a bleed 3 times before I got all the air out and believe my when I say my jeeps with 35" tires stops on a Dime at 60 miles per hr. Any issue hit me up on here