https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-s...ts-way-258623/

So my initial thoughts, I know I will be cutting the rock rails in the rear (thank god for sawzalls)

After C-gussets and ball joints are installed I will test flex and move to modify fenders as necessary.

One thing I noticed is the steering is not as 'tight' anymore, I assume this is due to the neutral area of the steering stabilizer? Dunno, feedback welcome.

Next is lights so the night won't slow me down!

Anyone have any other thoughts or comments?

As always, feedback appreciated!

 

You would be correct! I did a half island tour but didn't stop for pics, will try to rectify that today!

 

Is this is good choice?

 

Hafa Adai!

Nice build, I know what you mean about shipping I was forward deployed to Guam in 2010, and been in Hawaii since. I got out of the navy 2 days ago and and will be back to California in April, after spending the last 4 years on a rock... I'm ready to be back on the mainland and finish building my rig without paying an arm and a leg on shipping! All that extra money spent on shipping... the price of living in "paradise" I guess...

 

You need to get an AEV ProCal to turn off the TPMS light. You can also use the ProCal to adjust your tire size to correct the speedometer error and transmission shift points. It costs about $150.

Your steering is not as tight because of the lift. In order to lift your Jeep, the driveline angles and pinion angles had to change. The higher the lift, the worse the angles get. Your caster is probably less than stock now and it causes your Jeep to feel light and flighty while driving down the road. If you don't concentrate on your driving, it feels like the Jeep won't stay pointed straight and it wanders around on the road.

There are a few ways to correct caster on a lifted Jeep. One way is to rotate the front axle with adjustable control arms to give you back the stock factory caster. The problem with doing that on a lifted Jeep is that you will get bad angles at your pinion and driveline that will introduce vibrations, premature driveline wear, possible transfer case issues, etc... You can buy hubs like a spyntec hub conversion to unlock the front wheels from the front axles when you are driving on the roads to eliminate the vibration, but when you lock the hubs in for 4wheeling, you will still have to deal with the bad angles. The hubs require a larger center wheel opening and a 5x5.5 lug pattern, so your stock 5x5 wheels won't work. You will have to get new wheels and new rear axle shafts with the 5x5.5 lug pattern or you won't get your tires back on your Jeep.

Another option is to have your inner C's cut off the axle, rotated, and welded back on. This is not something that I'd recommend, but it can be done.

The best option is to buy a custom front axle housing like the ProRock 44 Unlimited or a Teraflex 44 that have extra caster built in. You will be able to restore your factory caster and still be able to adjust the pinion and driveline angles to help reduce or eliminate the vibrations from the steeper angles. You might even get a better driving Jeep than when it was stock. Of course if you go with the new axle housing, it is stronger than the factory axle. You won't need gussets to reinforce the C's.

 

Thanks for the informative post Bo, and to all the other folks offering their advice.

The procal came in and I set everything, no more TPMS, gas mileage increasing, worth the money in my opinion.

Still waiting on the c-gussets and sleeves though, so I keep to the street out of fear.

So I see the teraflex R44 is 2050, that is a hefty chunk of change.

I think I will roll with the stock reinforced and if the worst should happen (breaks or bends) swap the teraflex in, maybe start saving so I can go 44 front (replaced) and 60 back.

What do you think?

Is a 60 really necessary though, what situations is it beneficial in?

I really hate waiting to finally unleash this thing because of the damn C-gussets..it's killing me especially since a bunch of guys are taking their rigs out on this three day weekend. I'm stuck on freakin pavement.

 

Canibeat, I went through 671 Motorsports for shipping and install, it was 2k total for shipping and labor, which seemed ok for the amount of heavy stuff I shipped.

The hardest part is the long wait times. 2 months for freight.

I don't see myself shipping anything else that must be shipped by freight, I will be leaving the island in March of 2014 so I think my current setup will suffice. Unless I break something .

When I get back to the mainland I plan on doing an LS swap which will be awesome. Not for shipping though.