Hi all,

Based on what I talked about on this thread here: https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-talk-26/dealer-rant-am-i-wanting-too-much-40741/ I am begining to rethink ordering another Rubi and instead get an X and with the money saved "build" a Rubicon. Do it with ARB's, Dana 44's F/R, 4.88's etc., basicaly everything that the Rubicon is except with better components. It may take a bit longer to get it up to the same level as a Rubicon would be right off the lot. Opinions?

-Derek

 

Don't forget about the Lifetime Powertrain Warantee my friend!!!! What is that worth to you and your pocket book?

 

There are several other threads on this I have read so you may want to do a little more in depth search. I have read several of them and they are pretty helpful for someone trying to decide. Pretty much what I have gotten from most of them is if you are going to do it for the same price you will have to be able to do all of the work yourself or have a friend who doesn't charge you. If you have that, you can build something a little better than a Rubi for close to the same price. I didn't have time to search for you or I would have posted another link, but you shouldn't have trouble finding some threads on this.

 

The T-case 4:1 ratio is the main bogey on that budget.

You could do the axles and lockers/gears...manual disco's instead of the automagic disco, longer travel shocks/suspension, etc.

 

I have to agree with TEEJ. The 4:1 T-Case would set you back a few more $$. I thought about the same thing when I bought my 1st JK. Add the axles from 4WD.com, disconnects, etc. and have a Rubicon. After much thought, I decided I really wouldn't be saving much, if anything, and not have the warranty. My .02 is buy a Rubi.

 

I've wheeled both an X and a Rubicon in Moab and they were both excellent. Having front and rear lockers makes a huge difference in capability though. The 4:1 low-range ratio is nice too. There was one obstacle where I had to let off the brakes 3/4 of the way down a steep hill or the Jeep would have done a nose dive. All I can say is, I was glad I was in a Rubicon--the thing hardly sped up at all when I let off the brakes. An X probably would have crashed and burned.

Just go for the Rubicon if you can. You get beefier axles, a better transfer case, front and rear lockers, an electronic swaybar disconnect, standard rock rails and fog lights, a lower axle ratio, and better suspension components... not to mention a better resale value should you ever decide to sell your Jeep. Plus, the stickers on the sides of the hood will gain you some major street cred.

 

Thank you all for your replies,

I'm still way leaning toward the Rubicon, and may still get the one I ordered. I have talked to a dealer in Vancouver, WA and they may be able to get it from the dealer in Tacoma. The dealer in Vancouver already offered me about $2K more in trade on my truck, unseen. And also found a couple of other Rubicons' through dealer locate that are almost exactly what I ordered. They seem much more willing to work for my business.

My thoughts on getting an "X" and making a Rubicon out of it is based on some of the reports seen here about the electric lockers and disconnect. I have never seen anything bad posted about ARB and manual disconnects are, well, manual. As for voiding the warranty, it seems that dealers are reluctant to service ANYTHING if the Jeep has seen dirt, so what's the point of worrying about voiding something that won't get fixed anyway?

-Derek

 

That depends on the dealer. I haven't seen tons of problems with the electronic lockers/sways. What are you talking about specifically?

 

About the only problem with the electric lockers has a very simple fix, due the 180 flip. As the electrical connection is in harms way when the plastic front air dam gets removed.

 

Just in comparison to the ARB or a manual disco. The problems I've seen posted here are mostly about the lockers not disengaging, which seems would cause bigger problems than them not engaging.