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Modified JK Tech Tech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.

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bump stops

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Old Apr 28, 2013 | 09:13 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by TheDirtman

As for over-compressing the coils? Never heard of such a thing.
Not to be a jerk, but do a search. Those that have been dealing with the JK for a LONG time have posted on this, including wayalife.

A spring that is over compressed will fatigue and sag, etc

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Old Apr 28, 2013 | 09:53 AM
  #22  
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I think that wayalife started that bs because he got $1 for every set of bump stops teraflex sold.
I know that I am a newb, I only have two jk's that I bought in 2007 and others may have so much more experience dealing with the ones that came out before then.
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Old Apr 28, 2013 | 12:51 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by TheDirtman
Raising the track bar mount on the axle will reduce the amount of side to side motion the axle experiences during full extension. The more level you can make it, better off you will be. If you raise the mount by the same amount of actual lift you have will allow you to re use the factory track bar as well.
I plan on doing that for the rear axle, did not know they had that for the front too.

Plan for the front, because running 26 psi tire pressure, running the Synergy Jeep JK Front Track Bar Brace,Sector Brace with there track bar.

I had this 73 blazer and busted that frame up at my steering box. I don't want to go through that anymore

JLsJK, Yeah I emailed King and they told me I needed the 2" springs right away. Hope they know now they don't fit a stock Jeep now . Mel's team (Offroad Evolution) offered to install them for me, so glad I did it myself
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Old Apr 28, 2013 | 01:26 PM
  #24  
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It's not just him. It is truth that a brand new spring will "settle" toots working load height. Other factors can increase or decrease this. As you cycle a spring it reduces its resistance to the forces compressing it over time.

I took the liberty of a google search to help educate you. WOL is not a teraflex fan boy, nor am I. I am a fan of a properly working suspension with in someone's budget.

http://www.ijera.com/papers/Vol2_issue6/BY26513522.pdf
The above suggests in part that as a spring works with in its designed limitations it can have an almost infinite life. A coil spring suspending a Jeep is NOT designed to fully collapse.

http://www.afcoracing.com/tech_pages/spring.shtml
Pay attention to spring set and spring bind. Bumps tips that are appropriate for your lift are key.

http://www.rocklizardfabrications.co..._Bumpstops.htm

http://h t t p://www.jeepforum.com/f...s-etc-1032758/
This one does mention that some coils are designed to not fatigue when over compressed, but do you know if yours are this type or not?

http://stu-offroad.com/suspension/bu...bumpstop-1.htm. Another

There are many more websites stating over compression could happen.

Last edited by k0260; Apr 28, 2013 at 03:16 PM. Reason: non-sponsor link
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Old Apr 28, 2013 | 01:49 PM
  #25  
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its so easy to tweek some people. I really could care less about research on coil over-compression but knock yourself out there bud. If anyone else cares to read it you did some good educating today.

for the op, you don't want to raise the front track bar bracket on the axle unless you are doing a drag link flip because of excessive bump steer. That will start to occur at 3.5" of lift and gets worse the higher you go. I was referring to the rear bracket. You will need a front adjustable track bar to correct the axle shift on the front axle. At 2" of lift axle shift should not be a real big deal. Doing a drag link flip will require longer bumps stops or a notched frame due to the track bar mount and drag link hitting the frame in the raised position. Sorry if I left the impression that you could simply raise the front.
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Old Apr 28, 2013 | 02:01 PM
  #26  
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Just ran out to get lunch and was : It would be cheaper to go with just the sector shaft brace and a front raised track bar bracket. Now you've gone and ruined it

Thank you.

Sorry Jackrabbit for jacking your thread. It's help me out a lot and the Sumo's are bookmarked for sure
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Old Apr 28, 2013 | 02:51 PM
  #27  
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The sumos actually are really nice. If a bumpstop can be nice, but I needed something like 3/4 of an inch bumpstop in the rear and I had metal to metal contact that was pissing me off. They fixed it and they have no thud since they are progressive, and I drive pretty fast on some rough roads. I was going to make some for the lower mount and decided to try these instead. They weren't cheap, but they do work. I think you said you made 5/8 plates for the bottom. We have pretty much the same build except I haven't bought shocks yet because I don't know exactly which ones to get yet. I haven't measured. The rears for 0-2 inch lift, which I have, look to be right on, but the fronts are showing 7 inches of shaft on level ground, so they need to be lengthened. At full compression I still have like 2 inches of shft showing. I need my rake back. What to do?
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Old Apr 28, 2013 | 02:53 PM
  #28  
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Maybe some of those nemesis brackets would help.
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Old Apr 28, 2013 | 04:17 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by TheDirtman
its so easy to tweek some people. I really could care less about research on coil over-compression but knock yourself out there bud. If anyone else cares to read it you did some good educating today.

for the op, you don't want to raise the front track bar bracket on the axle unless you are doing a drag link flip because of excessive bump steer. That will start to occur at 3.5" of lift and gets worse the higher you go. I was referring to the rear bracket. You will need a front adjustable track bar to correct the axle shift on the front axle. At 2" of lift axle shift should not be a real big deal. Doing a drag link flip will require longer bumps stops or a notched frame due to the track bar mount and drag link hitting the frame in the raised position. Sorry if I left the impression that you could simply raise the front.
Not tweaking me, just want real information, factual, rather than guess work. My original intention, still is, to advise filks that bumpstops are for more than just shock length and keeping tires out of your fenders.

My apologies for typos, I am owned by the iPhone/iPad auto correct.

Again, not trying to start an e-fight, heh. If ever in te DFW area, hollar and we'll grab a beer. I also have a few good scotches.

Sent from some string and a few tin cans.
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Old Apr 28, 2013 | 05:59 PM
  #30  
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10-4
Don't make it to texas very often, hoping to move to the Tahoe area soon if you ever make it up North we can run the Rubicon trail and finish with some
Happy wheeling.
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