Hope this is the right forum.

I am going to go buy a torque wrench and some other tools in preparation for installing my lift (not to mention it would be good stuff to have anyways). I am wondering if I should be getting a 1/2" torque wrench, or 3/8"? Are there adapters to go from one to the other? I imagine going from 1/2" to 3/8" is no problem, but can you get an adapter to go from smaller to bigger too? I am on a somewhat tight budget, so I don't want to spend over $100 bucks on the thing. Thanks.

 

Yep, you can get an adapter to go from 3/8 to 1/2, but personally I'd probably go the other way.

Don't know if you have anything like a Harbor Freight store up there, but got one of these for $15


Or the beam type are pretty cheap at Sears or autoparts stores.


Not the best quality on either, but for as much as I'll use one, I couldn't justify one of the $100+ wrenches.

 

I have never used either type of torque wrench, any experience on which type is easier for an idiot like myself to use? The top one you set and wait for a click as I understand?

 

The beam type will always be in calibration as long as it points to zero when at rest. The clickers are easier to use, but calibration is needed periodically. Otherwise, you don't know what you have.
I have both types. The clickers are useless now because the things doesn't click anymore. My beam wrench is over 30 years old and still works. I quit checking the calibration many years ago because it was always good.
The beam types are cheap enough to have one for each of several ranges.

 

I like the idea of the beam one I think. Does the needle stay at the max torque after you lay off? I am picturing pushing on the thing as hard as I can and trying to focus on the display at the same time... which doesn't seem easy.

I have a second question too if anyone can point me in the right direction. When a breaker bar is suggested, should I use one? will putting a piece of pipe on the end of a ratchet just break the ratchet?

edit: after reading that back to myself I can probably answer my own question, but I'll leave it on here just in case.

 

The pointer returns to zero. There is no hold feature.
Yes, the hard part is looking at the scale while applying torque. If it's really hard to see, I put the edge of a piece of tape on the reading I want. Knowing the beam type needs no calibration is worth any inconvenience, in my opinion.
The correct answer to the cheater pipe question is, if you need a cheater pipe, get a bigger ratchet, or use a bigger breaker bar. Once the torque is broken, then use the smaller wrench to gain a better throw.

 

i went and got the kobalt one from lowes and i have to say its a nice one. very accurate tested it against a snap on my friend had. But i think snap on owns kobalt so go figure.

 

The main difference between the 1/2 and 3/8 is their range. The 1/2 is for torque going up into 200 ft/lbs. They are not to good for low torque. The 3/8 are better for low torque applications and can be use for most in/lb readings. 1 ft/lb=12 in/lbs.
The down side of the beam type is that they are a pain in tight places. You'll need to pre tighten the nuts before using it. Insted of the ratchet action you need to reset the socket on the nut if you run out of room. I suggest using twelve point sockets as it gives you more play.

 

If you get the beam type, you can get the 3/8 and the 1/2 BOTH cheaper than a decent click type. Just go to Sears and pick them out. Since they are hand tools (the click type is NOT) they will carry the Craftsman lifetime warranty, but ONLY if you get CRAFTSMAN. Sears carrys a lesser quality brand that doea NOT carry the lifetime warranty so be careful. There's nothing wrong with a beam type torque wrench. They work well and will last for years.

 

Stay away from Craftsman. I got one of their wrenches, and promptly returned it - the accuracy was shitty +-4-6% at only the to 20% of range and it isn't even guaranted for life. Go to lowes and get a Kobalt. The beam types are great IF you can see the beam, ie maybe you have a lift or something. I prefer to use a beam if I can, but on vehicles it seems that is often hard. Plus, putting 140 foot pounds is hard, trying to concentrate on the needle of a beam while you are under a vehicle and pressing against the wrench with at least 70 pounds of force isn't easy. Definitely see if you can find the torques that you are actually going to need to install the lift - torque wrenches with smaller ranges are more accurate.