I have the front axle pulled out right now and am going to tomorrow begin the front end install of my new lift. The lift is an OME 4" lift. I have new double cardan shafts for the front and rear. Part of what I am going to do is widen the degrees of separation between the pinion angle and the caster angle as there isn't enough built in from stock. So what I want to know for those of you that have heard of or done this is with a 4" lift or better if you have the pinion angle set perfectly inline with the driveshaft as it should be for a double cardan drive shaft what was your final amount of separation between the pinion and caster angles? Also since I will be able to set the caster wherever I want it I am hearing that between 6-8 degrees seems to be the best. How does that sound?

 

Goodysgottacuda did it and labeled it cut and turn. Mixing those terms on Google may pop something up but Google-fu is weak on the phone.

 

You can set the pinion straight with the driveshaft and have any number of caster you want, the two are not related.

 

?????? They are very much related as they are fixed at the factory to 6 degrees of separation. If you set the pinion to straight on with the driveshaft you will not have enough caster and your jeep will handle like poo. This is if you have 3.5" of lift or more.

 

I found his write up. Pretty much exactly what I plan on doing. It appears that setting it to 10 degrees will handle it.

 

I completely understand but when you cut the center diff loose you can position it anywhere you want and have what ever caster you want. The thing you want to watch out for is the control arm brackets staying in the stock factory position as the control arms are going to determine the caster in the end.

 

One of the control arm brackets is literally on top of the center section so adjustable uppers or lowers or both if you wish are mandatory.

Either way this wasn't a thread about the method. I was looking for some info about how many degrees to separate the two angles to avoid extra work.

 

You have more brackets on your axle like sway bar links, shock mounts, and track bar mount but if you don't care about brackets being out of alignment and potentially having to cut them off and reset them then go ahead and just worry about the non important separation numbers. My last post since "I don't understand" what you are doing. Good luck.

 

I edited that quick! I guess you saw it. My bad. I have seen several people cut and rotate just the C's and it seems to work fine with the remainder of the bracketry being a bit off. My plan is to not remove the C's but cut the axle tube itself in 2 places that will allow me to rotate ALL of the bracketry along with the C's. This should minimize the effects on the rest of the brackets that would normally be there by just rotating the C's themselves. The whole goal of this is to get better separation numbers... The vehicle driving well and not grenading the T-case are more important factors to me at least than a few other brackets that have rubber bushes in them to help offset any slight misalignment issues. I have read and read about this until I am blue in the face, Please if you think I am missing something major here speak up. You are the only one I have seen who seems to think that the separation numbers dont matter and the rest of the brackets positions are more important.

 

If you haven't already, browse through the PR44 FAQ. It has some info on how their caster corrected housing is set up.

http://www.dynatrac.com/downloads/Pr...20FAQ_revK.pdf