Why does nobody make chromoly rock sliders for the JK/JKU? I've heard enough stories of even the $800+ .120" walled DOM sliders bending and causing body damage to wonder about this.

From the research I've done, I know rock buggy builders use chromoly from time to time as a thinner walled, lighter tube can be used to save weight. There is also talk of it being more brittle, and it possibly being a bit more difficult to weld. Lastly, in a weld-to-frame application, the added advantage of higher corrosion resistance is a huge plus.

I'm hoping someone well versed in materials and fab can enlighten me as to why we don't see chromoly sliders out there.

 

Anyone? 10char

 

In my little bit of experience with chromoly at work, not actually doing the work but sourcing it

-It's more expensive

-Springs back more and required better fixtures, say to match the slight curve of the JK tub in slider applications

-Harder to weld than mild steel

If the more knowledgeable could correct me, please do. I have no firsthand knowledge of working with chromoly

 

Would something like this be cost effective to make? I would guess making a chromoly set would be much more money...........much more than $800, right?? I've never heard of frame mounted sliders causing body damage...at least not yet. Body mounted yes, but not frame mounted. So dropping $700 for something like LOD sliders or Evo seems like a a solid choice. If it's simply a weight savings, then maybe but we weight our JK's down so much that I doubt it would provide much of an advantage/benefit.

 

1.75" 0.120" wall DOM sliders properly designed with gusseted 1/4" steel mounting plates should not bend before your frame would bend.

The EVO ones work well. A company called VKS Fab makes some that are similar.

With less than $200 in materials, I made my own--with the help of a friend.

You could do a thicker wall DOM, but I don't think it is needed.

The ones that bend are not DOM, not gusseted, and/or not welded to the frame.

The stock body mounts are very soft. On a hard impact, I'd estimate that the tub could move 1/2" or more. This is why tub or body mount mounted sliders are not enough for severe use and impacts.

 

Good points. In comparing the cost of 20 feet of DOM 1.75 x .120 with 4130N chromoly in 1.75 x .083, they seem to come out to the same cost, $120-125 before tax. I'd guess you need what, 25 feet total to make a pair of sliders? If .083 chromoly is truly as strong as .120 DOM then that's a pretty fair comparison, right? Having it welded properly is another story though, I understand.

The Evo ones are pretty darn tempting, as are the VKS ones. ACE makes a nice weld on pair too.

The more I look at the body mounted sliders the less I can come to terms with paying $700+ for 2 pretty pieces of metal that could fail on you when you need them most.

I'm still curious why one of these companies doesn't make chromoly sliders in .083. Whether worth it or not, people would probably buy them.

 

The ACE sliders are not DOM.

For my 2 door, I bought about 20' DOM (don't recall exactly) from Ruffstuff Specialties, with precut end caps for under $160 shipped. I bought some 1/4" plate locally for cheap. They took an afternoon to build and about an hour to weld to the frame. I was going to rattle can them, but I decided on powdercoat with multiple coats on the sides that wouldn't get hit hard by rocks. I have a can of satin black for touch up on the parts that will get beat to crap.

I would have just bought the EVO ones, but I don't like the sharper lines, and I would have needed a set with the arms unwelded. I had to work around my long arm control arm brackets. I would have had to trim and modify the EVO arms anyway.

It would have been worth it to me to pay an extra $400 to not have to have spent a day building them, but I like the design we did and the customization of the mounts.

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/s...348FC9369D.jpg


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Wow, I knew their bolt ons were mild steel, but had no idea the weld ons weren't DOM.

I really like the design you did. That's very similar to what I was thinking of doing (also with the help of a friend). The EVO's are nice, but everyone seems to have those here in So Cal. I'd rather have a slider that looks great and learn a little in the process.

Thanks for the info, and nice job on the sliders!

By the way, any regrets on powder coating rather than rattle canning? I was thinking of rattle canning mine or using rustoleum hammered paint. Since the sliders are permanent, I want to be able to do a touch up once in a while and get a good color/texture match.

 

Thanks.

If I lived in SoCal, I'd rattle can them after cleaning them up well and doing a couple coats of self-etching primer.

Being exposed to the winter road chemicals here in Montana, I wanted the powdercoat on the sides less easy to touch up with paint.


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