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Coast Front Driveshaft install problems...HELP please

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Old Aug 31, 2014 | 05:43 PM
  #11  
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Isn't it just bolted together ? Can't really tell from pic...
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Old Aug 31, 2014 | 05:58 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by JKZinger
yes, you need to take the yoke off of the shaft and install it first. Then the shaft. Mine came with 4 bolts that I use a 1/2" wrench on?
Ok. Got one out with fingers. 12 points, but not 1/2 ". Anyone know? Thanks for the reply.
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Old Aug 31, 2014 | 07:26 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by JEP THNG
Ok. Got one out with fingers. 12 points, but not 1/2 ". Anyone know? Thanks for the reply.
8mm. Jeep bolts are metric.
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Old Aug 31, 2014 | 07:29 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by JKZinger
Torque it to 160 and call it a day. Mine has been fine for years and I have not heard of anyone with the coast having issues when they torqued it to that. It was handy to have a long torque wrench to do it.
Note the picture I posted. He followed the torque spec. Worst advice ever. Do some homework on the topic before you recommend something that could cause significant failure. At 160 my pinion would have been so loose that the rear end would have failed within a week.
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Old Aug 31, 2014 | 07:51 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Invest2m4
8mm. Jeep bolts are metric.
My 8mm didn't fit...thanks for the post.
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Old Aug 31, 2014 | 08:25 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Invest2m4
Note the picture I posted. He followed the torque spec. Worst advice ever. Do some homework on the topic before you recommend something that could cause significant failure. At 160 my pinion would have been so loose that the rear end would have failed within a week.
You are correct, but most people only torque to 160. It seems the instructions that come with some aftermarket parts say 160 with no further tightening.
Since that is the easy way, most don't want to hear how it's supposed to be done.

Here are a few of the steps from the JK service manual describing the removal and reinstallation of the front Dana 30 pinion yoke.
This is not the complete procedure. It's a few of the steps most people think are not necessary.

REMOVAL

1. With transmission in neutral, position vehicle on hoist.
2. Remove brake rotors and calipers.
3. Remove propeller shaft.
4. Rotate pinion gear three or four times.
5. Record pinion torque to rotate with an inch pound torque wrench , for installation reference.

INSTALLATION

4. Install new pinion nut.
5. Hold pinion flange and tighten pinion nut to 160 ft. lbs.
6. Measure pinion torque to rotate with an inch pound torque wrench. With a torque wrench set at 400 ft. lbs. tighten nut in 5 ft. lbs. increments until pinion torque to rotate is achieved. Pinion torque to rotate is the recorded reading plus an additional 5 in. lbs.

CAUTION: If maximum tightening torque of 542 N·m (400 ft. lbs.) is reached before torque to rotate is achieved, the collapsible spacer may have been damaged. Never loosen pinion gear nut to decrease pinion gear bearing rotating torque and never exceed specified preload torque. Failure to follow these instruction may result in damage.

Last edited by ronjenx; Aug 31, 2014 at 08:30 PM.
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Old Aug 31, 2014 | 08:49 PM
  #17  
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The crush sleeve is not set via foot pounds.

I believe when i did mine i just open her up pulled the axles yanked the carrier pulled the pinion & installed the new crush sleeve

(i ordered two there cheap)

then tighten.

You do it with the axle empty, just the pinion in it. tighten slowly stopping to check your progress often

check your progress by spinning the pinion with a inch pounds wrench till you have the specified drag

Dana 44 JK Pinion Pre-load (New) 22 to 35 in-lbs. Pinion Pre-load (Reused)12 to 15 in-lbs.

If you go this route makes sure to keep your right and left bearings races, shims, and carrier caps in order,

If you over tighten the crush sleeve you will have to pull it apart and put a new sleeve in again

My buddy had his drive shaft installed via 4 wheel parts here in Lynnwood they just just hit it with the impact till it was not sloppy,

I prefer using an electric impact capable of 250 plus foot pounds for crushing the crush sleeve i have never seen or heard of anyone doing it with a cheater bar! i am young still though!

I dont promise to be correct i would do some research on those specs i am going off memory bout 6 years back

Last edited by Rub_My_Icon; Aug 31, 2014 at 08:54 PM.
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Old Aug 31, 2014 | 08:58 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Rub_My_Icon
The crush sleeve is not set via foot pounds.

I believe when i did mine i just open her up pulled the axles yanked the carrier pulled the pinion & installed the new crush sleeve

(i ordered two there cheap)

then tighten.

You do it with the axle empty, just the pinion in it.

Dana 44 JK Pinion Pre-load (New) 22 to 35 in-lbs. Pinion Pre-load (Reused)12 to 15 in-lbs.

If you go this route makes sure to keep your right and left bearings, shims, and carrier caps and bolts in order,

If you over tighten the crush sleeve you will have to pull it apart and put a new sleeve in again

My buddy had his drive shaft installed via 4 wheel parts here in Lynnwood they just just hit it with the impact till it was not sloppy,

I prefer using an electric impact capable of 250 plus foot pounds for crushing the crush sleeve i have never seen or heard of anyone doing it with a cheater bar! i am young still though!

I dont promise to be correct i would do some research on those specs i am going of memory bout 6 years back
Yes, it's empty when you do gears, but all the stuff remains in it when doing just the yoke, as in the OP's case.

And yes, the pinion preload is in/lbs, but it takes ft/lbs on the nut to to crush the sleeve.
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