control arm help
i am getting the famous driveshaft tick 1000 miles after the lift....just making sure on what rear control arms in need for sure when upgrading to the aftermarket shaft and if there is anything else i will need....and is the 1350 worth the extra $$ ...thanks
1350s are not really necessary until you get into big tires and big power. 1310s flex better (not that my suspension will ever test that), are cheaper, and more common.
When I called Woods for a front shaft I told him "I think I want a 1310 unless you can sell me on a 1350" his response "not even going to try, 1310 will be fine" he never even asked if I was running 40's D60s or a hemi (which I'm not). So unless you have extreme mods in your future, the DS isn't going to be the weak link in your power train and a 1310 is fine.
However, if you plan on resting on the driveshaft and powering thru it with the DS scraping on the rocks, then maybe a 1350 is a good choice...
As for control arms, front lowers, rear uppers is generally the case.
When I called Woods for a front shaft I told him "I think I want a 1310 unless you can sell me on a 1350" his response "not even going to try, 1310 will be fine" he never even asked if I was running 40's D60s or a hemi (which I'm not). So unless you have extreme mods in your future, the DS isn't going to be the weak link in your power train and a 1310 is fine.
However, if you plan on resting on the driveshaft and powering thru it with the DS scraping on the rocks, then maybe a 1350 is a good choice...
As for control arms, front lowers, rear uppers is generally the case.
Yep! That is the tradeoff between 1310 and 1350 joints: operating angle range vs strength.
The 1350s carry about 35% higher torque, but at the expense of 15-20% less max operating angle.
This becomes even more important with double cardan joints where ideally you want to minimize the pinion angle.
Besides if you lay into the skinny too much, would you prefer a driveshaft joint to fail or the transfer case or differential?
The 1350s carry about 35% higher torque, but at the expense of 15-20% less max operating angle.
This becomes even more important with double cardan joints where ideally you want to minimize the pinion angle.
Besides if you lay into the skinny too much, would you prefer a driveshaft joint to fail or the transfer case or differential?


